Super 30-30 Punch Head Notes Super 30-30 Punch-Head Notes
Super 30/30  and  Custom 18/30
Punch-Head Repair Notes

Starting about 1960,  The Strippit Co. developed their  "Improved Electro-Hydramatic"  Punch Head using a  Electric Solenoid inside Punch-Head Piston to Close the Piston-Valve for a Punch-Cycle.
New Punch-Head was used on  Strippit's  Super 30/30,  Custom 30/30,  Sonic 15B,  Sonic 18/30,  Custom 18/30,  Super 30/40-Mechanical,  Custom 30/40-Mechanical,  Super 30/30 AG (Auto-Gage),  and  Custom 18/30 AG   Single-Station Punch Machines.

Before 1960,  Strippit's Single-Station Punch Machines used Complex System of  Air-Solenoid  &  Air-Cylinder to Pull-Up a Steel-Rod that went down into Piston to Pull-Up & Close the Piston-Valve for a Punch-Cycle,  as was used on Models like   10-A,   10-AA,  15A   Punch Machines.

This  Newer  Electro-Hydramatic  Type of Punch-Head is Reliable, 
but as most of these Machines are now  30 to 60 Years Old  and 
Most Shops do Little  or  Zero Maintenance,  they of course,   Develop Problems.   Go Figure......

On this Web-Page,  I will show a few Common Problems and some Repair Tips, 
But Certainly  NOT  Step-By-Step  Repair Instructions.

Review All the Information I have Provided on my
Super 30/30 & Other Strippit Single-Station Punch Machines
Webpage,  as there is  Much  Common
Problems  and  Repair  Information  already Shown there!

Buy a  Maintenance Manual  if you don't have one!
1  ---  If Machine Blows a Fuse when you try to Punch,  Solenoid may have 
Burned-Out  &  "Shorted",  or   the Cables to Solenoid may have Frayed  or  come-loose
Shorting-Out to the Machine.   Some simple Ohmmeter Tests should determine what is bad here.

Some Model Machines have a  "Nibble-Mode"  Switch allowing  Continuous-Punching  which can Burn-Out Solenoids,  and is also Dangerous for Operator as it makes it Easier to Punch his Fingers.
Personally,   I would un-wire the Nibble-Switch so Machine only works in Single-Punch Mode.

#49011-200  Solenoids  can also Burn-Out when Failed Switches allow  A.C.-Power  to be on Continuously,  making the Machine Punch Continuously like it's in Nibble-Mode, 
and your  Knucklehead Operator  Doesn't Care,  and so
he keeps using it this way instead of having it repaired,  until Solenoid Finally Burns-Out.

A  Good Solenoid Coil  Measures About  15   Ohms,   a Bad Solenoid Coil is
"Shorted"   Close to Zero Ohms     or    "Open"   Zillions of Ohms.  
You have to Drop the Ram-Housing  and  Rebuild Punch-Head to Replace Coil,  a Lot of Work.

Since you have the  Ram-Housing  and  Piston  out of the Machine,  
NOW  is the Time to do Other Repairs,   as it's  EASY  with the Machine Apart!!!

Start with removing the  Packing-Rings  Threaded Retaining-Ring  as shown in Bottom of Piston Photo,  and the Photo above.   As nobody but me has a Tool to Engage the 2-Holes to remove Threaded Retaining-Ring,  Everyone used a Hammer & Punch to Drive Ring Counter-Clockwise to Remove  &  Clockwise to Tighten Ring.  

This,  of Course,  Buggers-Up  &  Ruins the  2-Holes.
Once Ring is off,   take Ring to a Good Machine Shop and have them Drill a Couple of  Pairs of New Holes  180-Degrees apart.  There is Plenty of room to Drill several Pairs of new holes.

Then,  for Extra-Credit,  you could also have the Machine Shop make you a Tool like shown above.
This one is simply a  5/8" x 1/2" x 19"  Steel Rod  with  2  ---   .125" Dowel Pins  sticking-up  .200" 
and are mounted   4.550"  apart.

Now Install a  NEW Set of  Packing-Rings   from our  Head-Rebuilding  Kit,   shown Below.

If you have determined Solenoid is Bad,  the Ram-Housing will have to be Dropped-Down to gain access to Piston.   Ram-Housing is Heavy and Greasy,  so block-it up with Wood so it does Not fall as you remove Bolts & Dowel Pins.   Be Careful doing this so that you don't Smash your Fingers 
or  Damage any Machine Parts which are No longer made or available anywhere!

Cable to Handle Interlock-Switch on the Back of Ram-Housing does Not have to be removed.
Make  SURE  you don't  Damage the Interlock-Switch on the Back of Ram-Housing!

Carefully Pull the  2  Special Tapered Pull-Dowel Pins  with a Dowel-Puller so you do  NOT  Damage them!   The 2 Pull-Dowels have a  5/16" x 18  Inside-Thread  to use with  Dowel-Puller Tool.
Carefully Remove the  4  ---  1/2"-13 x 1 3/4"   S.H.C.S.  (Socket Head Cap Screws).  
Carefully Lift  Ram-Housing off Wood-Blocks and Slide it off to the Side of Table out of your way.

It is Very Difficult to work on Solenoid inside Piston while Piston is still on Machine,  so I would take Piston off Machine.   Remove the 2 Wire Connection from the Electrical Box,  make Sure you write-down what Terminals Wires went to!    Remove  5/16"-18  Set-Screw  in the Center of the Bottom
of the Connecting-Rod,  which fits into a Grove in the Center of the Wrist-Pin,  holding Pin in Place.

Swing Piston out Forward and have someone hold it there.  You can now take a Brass-Rod and
Ball-Peen Hammer and Carefully Tap the Wrist-Pin out of Piston and Connecting Rod, 
it should come-out Easily!   If NotFind-Out-Why!!!!    Don't Just Keep Hitting it with your Hammer like a Knuckle-Head!     Now you can remove Piston from Machine and Easily work on it.

Strippit used an  Expensive  Pig-Tail Cable,  in Left Photo Below,  that costs a Couple Hundred Dollars,  which is Totally unnecessary!   The Piston only has a  Very Short  5/8" Punch-Stroke
so for many years we have just used a  Straight-Cable with a  Little Slack in it.
While we are on the Subject of Cables going to Solenoid inside Punch-Piston,   Strippit seems to have used  2  main ways of Connection to Piston,  though there was probably some other variations over the 4-Decades Strippit built these Machines.

The  Later-Type is shown on Above Left Photo.   Top of Piston has Small Pipe-Threads in which a Pipe Stand-off  about  1 1/2" long  holds a Cord-Grip.   I don't think Stand-Off was necessary,  and I Removed Stand-Off and remounted Cord-Grip directly to Piston and added a New Straight Cable,  as shown on the Above Right.

The  Earlier-Type  using a small Military-Type Connector is shown in Above 3 photos.   There is a 
1 1/2"  Stand-Off  Pressed-in Permanently in to top of Piston.    Solenoid is Mounted inside Piston,  then  2  Shortened Solenoid wires are pulled-through Stand-Off and Carefully Soldered into Connector's bottom 2 Terminals.   Make Sure this is Soldered Very-Well by someone who Know's how to Solder,  as if there is a Problem,  you will have to take Machine all apart again to repair!!!

Connector is then mounted to top of Piston Stand-Off with  4  ---  #4-40 x 3/8"  S.H.C.S. 
Straight-Cable is wired into Electrical Box and Lower-end is plugged-in to Piston Connector.

If your Cable & Connectors are Damaged,  we have a  Kit of New Parts Available  as Shown on Upper-Left of the 3 photos Above.  
Kit Consists of  New  Straight-Cable,   New  Male  &  Female Cable Connectors,  and the  4  S.H.C.S.

Note,   Piston in above Photo has both  Oil Breather-Baffle Plates  removed
           and  Gits Oil-Filler Cap Broken-Off.

If your Cable & Cord-Grip are Damaged,  we have a  Kit of New Parts Available  as Shown on Lower-Left of the 4 photos Above.   Kit Consists of  New Cable,  New Cord-Grip,  and 4 Butt-Connectors to give you 2 Extra.   Electrical Crimp-Tool is Not included,  go Buy a Good Crimp-Tool at  Lowe's  or  Home Depot.   You want Very Good Crimp Connections because if it pulls-apart,  you will have to take Machine all apart again to fix it!   

Shorten the long Solenoid Wires,  then Crimp-Well to new Cable.   Push Cable up through Piston.  
Mount Solenoid inside Piston with  4  ---  #8-32 x 1/2"  Socket Head Cap Screws  using a a bit of Loctite 243 Thread-Lock on screw-threads.    I  sometimes also use #8 Washers underneath
Screw-Heads.   Use a Long  9/64"  Allen Driver-Tool  to reach Screws,  and have a long Magnet-Tool Ready,  to retrieve the Screws you will drop inside the Piston.

Take Cord-Grip apart,  slide Bottom Threaded-Part down the Cable and Screw it into Piston fairly tightly.   Slide Top-Part of Cord-Grip down the Cable,   position Wires & Cable inside Piston so that they are tucked out of the way,  but also they need a bit of Slack so there is No Strain on any of the Wires.   Now Tighten the Top of Cord-Grip to hold Cable Securely.

Make  SURE  you Install  4 Packing Rings Correctly!!!
Solid-Side  of  Each Ring goes UP!      Open Lip-Side  of each Ring goes DOWN!

Make  SURE  Retaining Ring is Screwed-On Very Tight to Compress Packing-Rings.   Use the
2 Nylon-Balls and 2 Set-Screws to Hold Ring in Place Without Buggering-Up the Threads on Piston!
And lastly,   It's Now  EASY  to Install our  Hook & Handle Rebuild  Kit  with the Ram-Housing off of Machine,  as shown in Above 2 Photos.    It's Easy to Drive-Out old Roll-Pins  and  Drive-In new
Roll-Pins which hold the Hooks,  because you have lots of Room to  Align-Up Parts,  and
can Carefully Tap Roll-Pins  In & Out  with your  Punches & Ball-Peen Hammer.

Also,   I would  Never  Punch Very Thick Material like  1/4" Steel
or   Punch High-Tonnage  Holes  with  30/30  or  18/30  Type Machines
as Sooner or Later,   you will Break the Piston,   and they are  NOT  Available Anywhere Anymore!!!
This page was last updated: January 27, 2019