Super 30/30 and Custom 18/30
Punch-Head Repair Notes
Starting about 1960, The Strippit Co. developed their "Improved Electro-Hydramatic" Punch Head using a Electric Solenoid inside Punch-Head Piston to Close the Piston-Valve for a Punch-Cycle.
New Punch-Head was used on Strippit's Super 30/30, Custom 30/30, Sonic 15B, Sonic 18/30, Custom 18/30, Super 30/40-Mechanical, Custom 30/40-Mechanical, Super 30/30 AG (Auto-Gage), and Custom 18/30 AG Single-Station Punch Machines.
Before 1960, Strippit's Single-Station Punch Machines used Complex System of Air-Solenoid & Air-Cylinder to Pull-Up a Steel-Rod that went down into Piston to Pull-Up & Close the Piston-Valve for a Punch-Cycle, as was used on Models like 10-A, 10-AA, 15A Punch Machines.
This Newer Electro-Hydramatic Type of Punch-Head is Reliable,
but as most of these Machines are now 30 to 60 Years Old and
Most Shops do Little or Zero Maintenance, they of course, Develop Problems. Go Figure......
On this Web-Page, I will show a few Common Problems and some Repair Tips,
But Certainly NOT Step-By-Step Repair Instructions.
Review All the Information I have Provided on my
Webpage, as there is Much Common
Problems and Repair Information already Shown there!
Buy a Maintenance Manual if you don't have one!
1 --- If Machine Blows a Fuse when you try to Punch, Solenoid may have
Burned-Out & "Shorted", or the Cables to Solenoid may have Frayed or come-loose
Shorting-Out to the Machine. Some simple Ohmmeter Tests should determine what is bad here.
Some Model Machines have a "Nibble-Mode" Switch allowing Continuous-Punching which can Burn-Out Solenoids, and is also Dangerous for Operator as it makes it Easier to Punch his Fingers.
Personally, I would un-wire the Nibble-Switch so Machine only works in Single-Punch Mode.
#49011-200 Solenoids can also Burn-Out when Failed Switches allow A.C.-Power to be on Continuously, making the Machine Punch Continuously like it's in Nibble-Mode,
and your Knucklehead Operator Doesn't Care, and so
he keeps using it this way instead of having it repaired, until Solenoid Finally Burns-Out.
A Good Solenoid Coil Measures About 15 Ohms, a Bad Solenoid Coil is
"Shorted" Close to Zero Ohms or "Open" Zillions of Ohms.
You have to Drop the Ram-Housing and Rebuild Punch-Head to Replace Coil, a Lot of Work.
Since you have the Ram-Housing and Piston out of the Machine,
NOW is the Time to do Other Repairs, as it's EASY with the Machine Apart!!!
Start with removing the Packing-Rings Threaded Retaining-Ring as shown in Bottom of Piston Photo, and the Photo above. As nobody but me has a Tool to Engage the 2-Holes to remove Threaded Retaining-Ring, Everyone used a Hammer & Punch to Drive Ring Counter-Clockwise to Remove & Clockwise to Tighten Ring.
This, of Course, Buggers-Up & Ruins the 2-Holes.
Once Ring is off, take Ring to a Good Machine Shop and have them Drill a Couple of Pairs of New Holes 180-Degrees apart. There is Plenty of room to Drill several Pairs of new holes.
Then, for Extra-Credit, you could also have the Machine Shop make you a Tool like shown above.
This one is simply a 5/8" x 1/2" x 19" Steel Rod with 2 --- .125" Dowel Pins sticking-up .200"
and are mounted 4.550" apart.
Now Install a NEW Set of Packing-Rings from our Head-Rebuilding Kit, shown Below.
If you have determined Solenoid is Bad, the Ram-Housing will have to be Dropped-Down to gain access to Piston. Ram-Housing is Heavy and Greasy, so block-it up with Wood so it does Not fall as you remove Bolts & Dowel Pins. Be Careful doing this so that you don't Smash your Fingers
or Damage any Machine Parts which are No longer made or available anywhere!
Cable to Handle Interlock-Switch on the Back of Ram-Housing does Not have to be removed.
Make SURE you don't Damage the Interlock-Switch on the Back of Ram-Housing!
Carefully Pull the 2 Special Tapered Pull-Dowel Pins with a Dowel-Puller so you do NOT Damage them! The 2 Pull-Dowels have a 5/16" x 18 Inside-Thread to use with Dowel-Puller Tool.
Carefully Remove the 4 --- 1/2"-13 x 1 3/4" S.H.C.S. (Socket Head Cap Screws).
Carefully Lift Ram-Housing off Wood-Blocks and Slide it off to the Side of Table out of your way.
It is Very Difficult to work on Solenoid inside Piston while Piston is still on Machine, so I would take Piston off Machine. Remove the 2 Wire Connection from the Electrical Box, make Sure you write-down what Terminals Wires went to! Remove 5/16"-18 Set-Screw in the Center of the Bottom
of the Connecting-Rod, which fits into a Grove in the Center of the Wrist-Pin, holding Pin in Place.
Swing Piston out Forward and have someone hold it there. You can now take a Brass-Rod and
Ball-Peen Hammer and Carefully Tap the Wrist-Pin out of Piston and Connecting Rod,
it should come-out Easily! If Not, Find-Out-Why!!!! Don't Just Keep Hitting it with your Hammer like a Knuckle-Head! Now you can remove Piston from Machine and Easily work on it.
Strippit used an Expensive Pig-Tail Cable, in Left Photo Below, that costs a Couple Hundred Dollars, which is Totally unnecessary! The Piston only has a Very Short 5/8" Punch-Stroke,
so for many years we have just used a Straight-Cable with a Little Slack in it.
While we are on the Subject of Cables going to Solenoid inside Punch-Piston, Strippit seems to have used 2 main ways of Connection to Piston, though there was probably some other variations over the 4-Decades Strippit built these Machines.
The Later-Type is shown on Above Left Photo. Top of Piston has Small Pipe-Threads in which a Pipe Stand-off about 1 1/2" long holds a Cord-Grip. I don't think Stand-Off was necessary, and I Removed Stand-Off and remounted Cord-Grip directly to Piston and added a New Straight Cable, as shown on the Above Right.
The Earlier-Type using a small Military-Type Connector is shown in Above 3 photos. There is a
1 1/2" Stand-Off Pressed-in Permanently in to top of Piston. Solenoid is Mounted inside Piston, then 2 Shortened Solenoid wires are pulled-through Stand-Off and Carefully Soldered into Connector's bottom 2 Terminals. Make Sure this is Soldered Very-Well by someone who Know's how to Solder, as if there is a Problem, you will have to take Machine all apart again to repair!!!
Connector is then mounted to top of Piston Stand-Off with 4 --- #4-40 x 3/8" S.H.C.S.
Straight-Cable is wired into Electrical Box and Lower-end is plugged-in to Piston Connector.
If your Cable & Connectors are Damaged, we have a Kit of New Parts Available as Shown on Upper-Left of the 3 photos Above.
Kit Consists of New Straight-Cable, New Male & Female Cable Connectors, and the 4 S.H.C.S.
Note, Piston in above Photo has both Oil Breather-Baffle Plates removed
and Gits Oil-Filler Cap Broken-Off.
If your Cable & Cord-Grip are Damaged, we have a Kit of New Parts Available as Shown on Lower-Left of the 4 photos Above. Kit Consists of New Cable, New Cord-Grip, and 4 Butt-Connectors to give you 2 Extra. Electrical Crimp-Tool is Not included, go Buy a Good Crimp-Tool at Lowe's or Home Depot. You want Very Good Crimp Connections because if it pulls-apart, you will have to take Machine all apart again to fix it!
Shorten the long Solenoid Wires, then Crimp-Well to new Cable. Push Cable up through Piston.
Mount Solenoid inside Piston with 4 --- #8-32 x 1/2" Socket Head Cap Screws using a a bit of Loctite 243 Thread-Lock on screw-threads. I sometimes also use #8 Washers underneath
Screw-Heads. Use a Long 9/64" Allen Driver-Tool to reach Screws, and have a long Magnet-Tool Ready, to retrieve the Screws you will drop inside the Piston.
Take Cord-Grip apart, slide Bottom Threaded-Part down the Cable and Screw it into Piston fairly tightly. Slide Top-Part of Cord-Grip down the Cable, position Wires & Cable inside Piston so that they are tucked out of the way, but also they need a bit of Slack so there is No Strain on any of the Wires. Now Tighten the Top of Cord-Grip to hold Cable Securely.
Make SURE you Install 4 Packing Rings Correctly!!!
Solid-Side of Each Ring goes UP! Open Lip-Side of each Ring goes DOWN!
Make SURE Retaining Ring is Screwed-On Very Tight to Compress Packing-Rings. Use the
2 Nylon-Balls and 2 Set-Screws to Hold Ring in Place Without Buggering-Up the Threads on Piston!
And lastly, It's Now EASY to Install our Hook & Handle Rebuild Kit with the Ram-Housing off of Machine, as shown in Above 2 Photos. It's Easy to Drive-Out old Roll-Pins and Drive-In new
Roll-Pins which hold the Hooks, because you have lots of Room to Align-Up Parts, and
can Carefully Tap Roll-Pins In & Out with your Punches & Ball-Peen Hammer.
Also, I would Never Punch Very Thick Material like 1/4" Steel
or Punch High-Tonnage Holes with 30/30 or 18/30 Type Machines
as Sooner or Later, you will Break the Piston, and they are NOT Available Anywhere Anymore!!!
This page was last updated: January 27, 2019