Strippit Machine Dowel Pins
Strippit Machines, as well as many other Machine Tools,
have many Complex and Precision Mechanical Components that are Precisely Located During Building Process at the Factory.
Shot-Pin Housings, Turret-Bases, Bearing Mounts, Die Bases, Etc., are all Located, Bolted-Down, and Finally Dowel-Pinned
into position using Precision Reamers and Precision-Ground
Dowel-Pins during the Machine Building process.
Many think that Dowel Pins are for Additional "Holding" Power,
but this is Not Their Purpose.
Dowel Pins are for Locating Position.
The Idea is, when you take a Dowel-Pinned Component off the Machine for some Repair, you can then Bolt-It Back in Original
Precise Factory Position with the use of Locating Dowel Pins.
Most of the Time, if a Machine Component is Dowel-Pinned, Leave it Alone!!!
But, on Occasion, something like a Die Base will need to be removed for
Repair or Alignment. And so, I get requests on How to Remove these Pins.
Cleverly, Strippit uses "Pull-Dowels", which have a Threaded-Hole in one end.
When Originally Installed, the Solid-End is inserted into it's Hole, Leaving
Threaded-End Exposed, which you can use with a Dowel-Puller to remove it.
I have several Different Dowel Pullers that I use, depending on Space and Location
I am working in. But, here is information on Puller I use the Most,
so you can Duplicate it for your own use.
Note, If there is Not Enough Information here for You to Figure-Out how to make your
own Dowel Puller, Maybe You Should Not Be Pulling Out Dowel Pins!
This is a Snap-On Tool Co. Slide-Hammer that I bought Years ago. It is Basically a
3/4" Hardened Fine-Threaded-Rod 20 Inches Long and has a 4 Pound Slide-Hammer.
I had 5 Tips made in a Machine Shop to Hold Different-Size Socket-Head Cap Screws
(S.H.C.S.) to fit Different-Size Dowel Pins and their Internal Threaded-Ends.
These Tips are 2" Long, and are Drilled & Tapped about 1 3/4" Deep to Fit the Rod.
Then other end is Clearance-Drilled for the Different-Sizes of S.H.C. Screws
(Socket Head Cap Screws) used.
The 5 Sizes I have are;
.187" for a #8 S.H.C.S.
.219" for a #10 S.H.C.S.
.281" for a 1/4" S.H.C.S.
.328" for a 5/16" S.H.C.S.
.390" for a 3/8" S.H.C.S.
Use is Quite Simple.
1 -- You select the Proper S.H.C.S. and Tip for Dowel to be Removed.
2 -- Using a Long Allen Wrench, Push S.H.C.S. through the Tip,
and Screw it in as Far as you can into Dowel Pin.
3 -- Then Screw Slide-Hammer Rod into the Tip.
4 -- Make sure Slide-Hammer is Straight, then Carefully, Slap the Hammer against
Rod-Stop, and Pull the Dowel out. Try Not to Hit Your Hand!
It may take several Hard-Hits, Depending on Size and Tightness of Dowel Pin.
Do NOT Hit Hammer Harder than Necessary, as you can Break the Smaller 1/4"
Dowel Pins, as well as S.H.C. Screws!
Throw Away S.H.C.S. after a Couple of uses, as they can Fatigue and Break!
5 -- When you Reassemble Machine Components, Clean & Flat-File Both Machine
Surfaces to Remove Burrs around the Dowel Holes and Bolt Holes.
We can Supply Dowel Pins that Strippit used in Building their Machines.
Common Dowel Sizes that Strippit used, and the Drill & Reamer Sizes used;
Dowel Size Strippit # Pull-Hole Drill Size Reamer Size
.250" x 1.0" 18204-000 #8-32 15/64" .2344" .2480"
.375" x 1.0" 12412-000 #10-32 23/64" .3594" .3740"
.375" x 1.5" 12557-000 #10-32 23/64" .3594" .3740"
.375" x 2.0" 12138-000 #10-32 23/64" .3594" .3740"
.406" x 1.5" 104399-100 #10-32 25/64" .3906" .4050"
.437" x 1.5" 18738-000 #10-32 25/64" .3906" .4050"
.500" x 1.5" 12589-000 1/4-20 31/64" .4844" .4990"
.500" x 2.0" 13564-000 1/4-20 31/64" .4844" .4990"
.515" x 1.5" 104399-200 1/4-20 1/2" .5000" .5140"
.531" x 1.5" 104399-300 1/4-20 33/64" .5156" .5290"
.625" x 1.5" 14802-000 1/4-20 39/64" .6094" .6225"
.750" x 3.0" 13578-000 5/16-18 47/64" .7344" .7458"
Doweling can be Difficult. At the Strippit LVD Factory, a Portable Mag-Base Drill
as shown in Photo below, is used to provide the
Rigidity & Drill Point Pressure Required to Drill & Ream Steel Properly.
But, its still very easy to end up with a Oversize hole and a "Loose Dowel".
So if you had a Loose .500" Dowel, you would simply Re-Ream Loose .500" Hole
with .5140" Reamer, and fit a .515" Dowel, or even move up to a .531" Dowel.
That's why Strippit Makes Oversize .406" and .437" Dowels for the .375" Dowel,
and .515" and .531" Oversize Dowels for .500" Dowel Size, to Fix these Mistakes.
This page was last updated: May 28, 2024
Strippit also used Custom-Made Tapered Pull-Dowel Pins
to Locate Punch-Head Assembly in their Single-Station Punch Machines
like the Super 30/30, Super 30/40, and Custom 18/30.
Punch-Head was Factory Aligned, Drilled, Taper Reamed, and had
2 Locating Tapered Pull-Dowel Pins Installed.
The Idea was that,
in the Future when Punch-Head was Dropped-Down for Repairs and Maintenance,
Punch-Head could be positioned back to Original Factory Aligned Position
by Carefully Re-installing Tapered Pull-Dowel Pins
when Repairs and Maintenance was finished.
If you have Damaged or Lost your 2 #62496-000 Tapered Pull-Dowel Pins
we now have a Limited Stock of New Custom-Made Tapered-Dowel Pins.
Pins are Sold in Pairs with 2 5/16" x 18 S.H.C.S.
which we use with Dowel-Puller to Remove Pins.
We also Screw-In S.H.C.S.'s into Dowels when Reinstalling Dowels back in Machine
so that we Tap in Place The Head of the S.H.C.S. and NOT the Dowel Pin Top
using a 3/4" Brass-Rod and Brass-Hammer,
to make sure we do NOT the Damage Pins.
