Super 30/40HD
Punch Machine Notes

Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines were made in  1960's  &  Early 1970's.  
These Machines were basically just a 
Super 30/30  with  Bigger-Flywheels  and  Larger-Motor 
and  were  Definitely  NOT  Good  40 Ton Machines!

Shops that insisted on Punching  Large  and  High-Tonnage  Holes with
Super 30/40-Mechanical  &  Super 30/30  Machines would,   sooner or later, 
Break the Piston  and other  Punch-Head Parts.
If you have a  Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machine, 
I would  NOT  Punch Holes that Required over 25 Tons  and  I would 
NOT  Punch  1/4"  and  Thicker Material as Replacement Pistons are  NOT  Available.  

So if you Break-it,  you will need to Buy another Used Machine to Replace your Broken Machine that you can't repair,   or  else you will have to  Run-Down to  Home Depot
or   Lowes    and  Buy a  Hand-Drill to make your Holes.     Your Choice.

Because of these Breakage Problems with   Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines,  
Strippit Replaced it with the   Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine   in 1976.

These were  Excellent  Heavy-Duty Machines
that would Punch  40-Ton Holes all day long with No Problems.

Strippit  Stupidly  Quit making these Excellent Machines about  1990,
LVD-Strippit  STUPIDLY  No longer makes  Any  Single-Station Machines.
Strippit  Super 30/40HD
Painted in the  1970's  Puke-Green
As stated previously,  these were  Excellent Machines.  
But,  of Course,  there are some trouble areas now that they are getting old.

1  ---   Machines are now about  30 to 45 years old.   Do You  Do  ANY Maintenance???
          Did you  EVER  Change the Hydraulic Oil???    Yeah,   I didn't think so.
          So the the Hydraulic Oil in your Machine is now at  least  30+ Years old.
          But  yet You wouldn't  Dream of Not Changing the oil  Regularity
          in your  Pick-Up Truck  or  your  Wife's Caddy  for  Decades.    Go Figure.....

          That  Old Oil has  Dirt  &  Water  &  Metal Particles  in it that has Been Wearing-out
          your  Expensive  Hydraulic-Pump,  Hydraulic-Valve,  Punch-Cylinder,  Seals,  etc.

          Hydraulic Tank  holds  55 Gallons of   Mobil  DTE-24  Hydraulic Oil.
          Change  The  Fucking  Oil!

2  ---   Strippit  really  Screwed-Up  here.   They put a  Course Screen-Filter that will
         Stop  Cock-Roaches  &  Floating Mice  going up the  Suction-Tube Pick-Up  in
         Oil Tank that goes to Pump.    But it will  NOT  Stop   &  Filter-Out  Dirt   &  Metal
         Particles in the oil that will Damage All Components in Punch System.

         Common Good-Practice in Designing Any Hydraulic Systems is to put a
         Spin-On Filter in  Return-Line  from the  Hydraulic-Valve.
         Hydraulic Systems,   like on this
         Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine,   have the Pump Running and maintaining
         Oil Pressure to the Punch-Valve All the Time when Machine is Turned-On.

         If not actually Punching at that moment in time,  
         Valve just Dumps the oil through a Return-line Back-to the Tank.  
         A  Low-Pressure Filter should be Inserted into that return Line!
         But  Strippit Did  NOT  put a Return-Line Filter on this Machine!
         95-Percent of the time,  Machine is Not actually Punching,  so the oil is constantly
         being sent back to Tank.   If you were to  Add a  Filter to the  Low-Pressure
         By-Pass Line coming out of Valve,  your Oil would be
         Constantly Filtered Clean Preventing Many System Wear-Out Problems.

         Pictures of  Typical  Small  Filter-Mount  &  Filters  are Shown Below, 
         but  I would use a  Much Larger Filter to handle output from 
         this  10HP Motor  &  Pump  Combination  which  Flows About   19 GMP.
         Prince   Hydraulic Oil Filters  --  45 GPM
         Buyers  Hydraulic Return Filter Assembly  —  50 GPM Return  Model#  HFA21015
         or  equivalent.  

         If I owned 1 of these Machines,   I would  Plumb-in  a  Filter Assembly!

  Strippit  Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine   Punch-Head Seals Kit

---   #17317-000     Item #24    BOTTOM  PISTON-WIPER  IN BASE-ASSEMBLY
---   #17318-000     Item #21    BOTTOM  PISTON-SEAL  IN CYLINDER
---   #17319-000                        PISTON  WIPER-SEAL,   2-USED
---   #17320-000     Items #17  &  #19    CYLINDER-END  O-RINGS
---   #17321-000     Item #8      ROD-SEAL
---   #17322-000     Item #6      ROD-WIPER
---   #17323-000     Item #10    2  INVERTED RETAINING RINGS,   SO YOU HAVE A SPARE!
---   #15901-nyl      Item #3      2  IMPROVED  NYLON-TIP SET SCREW,   WHICH TAKES
                              THE PLACE OF     Item #3    #15901-000  STANDARD SET SCREW 
                                                   and    Item #2    #48286-000  NYLON-BALL

I now have Stock of  Kits of these Special Seals!
See Above Photos.

  If you have  "Lost" your  Operation  &  Maintenance  Manual
  Buy a  New Manual  Before  Starting on this Head-Rebuild!
  I still have a few Manuals left  For-Sale  at this time,
I also Included  information on the Hydraulic Components.

Strippit  Super 30/40HD
Painted in the  1980's  Yellow with Racing-Stripes
When Visiting Our Farm,
Do Not Piss-Off Our Animals!

3  ---  Back-In-The-Day  in 1975  when Strippit's Engineers built the 1st 
Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine,   Engineer's put the  2  Hydraulic Hoses  to
Punch-Cylinder on  Outside of the Frame where they would be Easy to get to.  
Then  Strippit's  Marketing-Pukes  looked at it and said 
"Move & Hide  The Hoses  because they weren't Pretty!"    True-Story.  
Remember  Strippit's  Marketing-Pukes when you Try to Un-Screw or Replace Hoses.

So Hoses were moved inside the frame where they are impossible to get to!
Every time you Punch with these Machines,  the Hoses Jump & Flex,  Inside the Frame,
from Punching Pressure Cycling on & off.   After many years of this, 
Hoses can  Wear  &  Blow-Out,  and are  Extremely Difficult to Access and Replace.  
You will have to drop-down the Heavy Punch-Head to get access to hoses,
another Very Difficult  Operation.

If you are replacing them,  Take  Old Hoses to a  Good  Hydraulic Supply House  like 
  Parker Industries     or  
  Livingston & Haven   
and make  New Hoses out of  Premium  4000PSI  or  5000PSI  Components
do  NOT  use the  Cheaper  2000 or  3000PSI  Stuff!

T-SAF 30

Later-On,  in the Early 1980's,  somebody in  Strippit's Marketing Dept. 
had a  Wet-Dream in the Shower,  and  came-up with the Idea of 
Bolting a Tool-Turret on the Side of this Excellent Single-Station Machine.

So Strippit Did.    A  12-Station Tool Turret Was just
Bolted-on  to the  Left-Side of the Frame,  and a  Very Clunky Indexing Mechanism
would advance the Turret  Very Slowly  &  Very Imprecisely  1 Station at a time.

This  New Machine was called the   T-SAF 30.   
These  Crappy Machines  had  Many Problems,   so  Avoid Them!

4  ---   As All these Machines are now Decades old,   Cylinder Seals tend to become Brittle with Age after 20 years or so,  Wear-Out,  then Crack & Break into pieces causing Punch-Cylinder to leak lots of Oil at the bottom of the Punch-Ram.

Cylinder-Bore may need to be Honed-Smooth  if it's Scored from  Dirt  &  Contaminants because you Didn't Change Oil regularly  or  add a By-Pass Filter.

Unfortunately,  it's a  Big-Job  to Replace Seals.
Alan Suda,  in the  Mid-West  may do this work if he's in  The-Mood  &  has Time, 
and  Tom Penrod,  on the  West Coast  can also do this work.  
Both are listed on my   Independent  Strippit  Machine  Service Webpage

Otherwise,  you will Need to do this yourself.  
Depending on how far you need to go on   Taking this apart,   Getting Repair Parts,   CleaningUp  or  Possibly Honing the Cylinder Bore,   Etc.,    Budget a few days to do it!
Before You Start,   Take Photos of Everything,   Especially  Switches  &  Cams, 
to insure you get it all back together Correctly!

Drop-Down Cylinder Assembly onto the Machine Table,   take-off Hydraulic Hoses,
take-off Tool-Holder Base-Assembly  and  Cylinder Rod-End.

Some Shops will Pull the Cylinder out and send it,  with a New Set of Seals, 
to a  Hydraulic Repair Shop  to be rebuilt.   
Be  Very Careful,  as the  Big  Oily  Punch-Cylinder Weights a  1/4 Ton!   Don't  Drop-It!

1 of my More Clever Customers rebuilt his Punch Cylinder in only 1 Day!
He maneuvered his Fork-Lift  Forks under Punch-Head to  Lift it Down  &  Move it.
A  Problem of rebuilding Cylinder is Holding it while  Loosening  &  Re-Torqueing
the  4  Big Tie-Rod Bolts,  as they are  Torqued to  850 Foot-Pounds!

He put  a  Wood 2 by 4  (2 by 6's might be Better)  in his Press-Brake Lower-Bed,
laid Cylinder on 2 by 4,   then put another  2 by 4 on Top,  then  Carefully Bumped-Down
Upper Press-Brake Ram  until  Cylinder was Secured in the Brake like a Giant Vise!

Again,   Be Very Careful,  as the  Cylinder Assembly Weights a  1/4 Ton!
When Done Rebuilding Cylinder,   you will Need a 
  Torque Wrench     1"-Drive 1000 Foot-Pound Rated
to achieve the  Required  850 Foot-pounds of Torque  on the  4 Tie-Rod Bolts!

5  ---   Try to Not Damage Switches as they are NOT made anymore!  
Take Very Good Photos of  Limit  Switches  &  their  Set-Up  Before you take them all off!

If you are completely Disassembling the Cylinder,   the  #11  Switch Actuator Rod  is
held-on to Piston only by a  Item #10  Retaining Clip.   I had a Machine where the Clip
Popped-Off of the Piston so Switch-Rod became Loose.  
Customer had to Completely remove Switches,  Pull Cylinder,  sent it to a Rebuild Shop,  and  then reinstall everything back in Machine.   

Then  Switch Actuator Rod  Popped-Off,   Again!
Customer had to Completely remove Switches,  Pull Cylinder, 
send it to the Rebuild Shop,  Again.    
It took a  Month  and  Many Thousands of Dollars  to get this Machine Finally Repaired,    All over a  50-Cent  Retaining Clip!!!    

It should be OK,  but check the Clip Groove on Piston to see if it is Buggered Up!
Re-Machine  if somehow damaged.

And  Always fit a  NEW  Inverted Retaining Ring  (Snap-Ring)  in  Piston-Groove.
Special Inverted Retaining Ring is used because a Standard Retaining Ring (Snap Ring) 
Lug-Holes stick-out too far  and  would hit the  #11 Switch Actuator Rod.
2  of these  Special Rings are Included in our Seal Kit!

5  ---   There are  No Electronics  in a  Super 30/40HD  Machine.  
Just the  Punch-Head  Limit Switches  and   Several Relays.

Strippit Engineering was Confused by some  New  U.L.-Insurance Requirements
in the Late 1970's  when this Machine was designed,  and so 
Relay Logic is Much More Complicated than necessary, 
and can be very difficult to follow.  

I  replace Stock Relays with  Special LED-Light Type Relays
which  Light-Up when  the Relay is Pulled-In, 
making it  Much Easier to  Follow  &  Trouble-Shoot  Problems.

6  ---   For Un-Know Reasons,  Strippit Stupidly made the Cams that go on the
Switch Actuator Rod  out of  6-Sided  Hex-Bar-Stock  on a CNC Lathe.   
Problem with this is the Tapered-Part of Cam actuates Switches OK,  
but  the  Rod Rotates over time,  and the
6  Flat-Sides  on Strippit's Cams do NOT always actuate the switches correctly!  

My solution was to have a Machine Shop make me some New Cams with  No Flat-Sides!
Look closely at Cams I had made in Photos Below.    I do not sell these Cams, 
but  if I can find my Drawings,  I may post my Cam Dimensions we used,  in the Future.

This page was last updated: August 29, 2023

As if the  T-SAF 30  wasn't Bad Enough,  
Strippit Marketing  had  Another  Wet-Dream  in The Shower
and  told  Engineering Dept.  to take the  T-SAF 30  Machine  and  to just
Bolt-on a  CNC Control  to make it a  Baby CNC Turret Punching Machine!   

So a  General Electric 1050  CNC  Control  &  Servo-Drives  were
Bolted-On  to the  Right-Side of the Frame.  
This new Machine was called the   FC75/30.  
They somehow thought it would go over Big in Europe,  but it never did.  
But they did sell a lot of them in the U.S.  Because they were Cheap.   
These  Machines  are  Automated Crap   and  should be Avoided!

As the   T-SAF 30   and   FC75/30   were Built off the    Super 30/40HD  Machine
The  Punching-Head   &   Cylinder   &   Seals   &   Switches  are  all the  Same  
and  use the  Same  Repair Parts  and  Repair Notes Provided Above.

Always use a
Inverted Retaining Ring!

There is Not much Clearance inside Piston
so use a Good Pair of
Snap-Ring Plyers
to get Ring  in  &  out!

2  of these Special Rings
are Included
in our Seal Kit!
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