Strippit
Super 30/40HD
Punch Machine Notes

Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines were made in  1960's  &  Early 1970's.  
These Machines were basically just a 
Super 30/30  with  Bigger-Flywheels and Larger-Motor 
and were  Definitely  NOT  Good  40 Ton Machines!

Shops that insisted on Punching Large and High-Tonnage Holes with
Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines would,  sooner or later, 
Break the Piston and other Punch-Head Parts.
If you have a  Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machine, 
I would  NOT  Punch Holes that Required over 25 Tons  and  I would 
Not  Punch  1/4"  and  Thicker Material as Replacement Pistons are  Not Available.  

So if you Break-it,  you will need to Buy another Used Machine to Replace your Broken Machine that you can't repair,  or  else you will have to Run-Down to Home Depot
and  Buy a Hand-Drill to make your Holes.    Your Choice.

Because of these Breakage Problems with   Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines,  
Strippit Replaced it with the   Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine   in 1976.

These were  Excellent  Heavy-Duty Machines
that would Punch 40-Ton Holes all day long with No Problems.

Strippit  Stupidly  Quit making these Excellent Machines about  1990,
and 
LVD-Strippit  Stupidly No longer makes any Single-Station Machines at all.
Strippit  Super 30/40HD
Painted in the  1970's  Puke-Green
As stated previously,  these were Excellent Machines.  
But,  of Course,  there are some trouble areas now that they are getting old.

1  ---   Machines are now about  30 to 45 years old.   Do You Do Any Maintenance???
         Did you  EVER  Change the Hydraulic Oil???   Yeah,  I didn't think so.
          So the the Hydraulic Oil in your Machine is now at  least  30+ Years old.
          But yet you wouldn't  Dream of Not Changing the oil  Regularity
          in your  Pick-Up Truck  or  your  Wife's Caddy  for Decades.   Go Figure.

          That  Old Oil has  Dirt  &  Water  &  Metal Particles  in it that has Been Wearing-out
          your  Expensive  Hydraulic-Pump,  Hydraulic-Valve,  Punch-Cylinder,  Seals,  etc.

          Hydraulic Tank  holds  55 Gallons of   Mobil  DTE-24  Hydraulic Oil.
          Change  The  Oil!

2  ---   Strippit  really  Screwed-Up  here.   They put a  Course Screen-Filter that will
         Stop  Cock-Roaches  &  Floating Mice  going up the  Suction-Tube Pick-Up  in
         Oil Tank that goes to Pump.    But it will Not  Stop  &  Filter-Out  Dirt  &  Metal
         Particles in the oil that will Damage All Components in Punch System.

         Common Good-Practice in Designing Any Hydraulic Systems is to put a
         Spin-On Filter in  Return-Line from the  Hydraulic-Valve.
         Hydraulic Systems,  like on this
         Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine,   have the Pump Running and maintaining
         Oil Pressure to the Punch-Valve All the Time when Machine is Turned-On.

         If not actually Punching at that moment in time,   Valve just Dumps the oil through
         a Return-line Back-to the Tank.   A Low-Pressure Filter should be Inserted into that
         return Line.    But Strippit Did  NOT  put a Return-Line Filter on this Machine!
         95-Percent of the time Machine is Not actually punching,  so the oil is constantly
         being sent back to Tank.   If you were to  Add a  Filter to the  Low-Pressure
         By-Pass Line out of Valve,  your Oil would be Constantly Filtered Clean 
         Preventing Many System Wear-Out Problems.

         Pictures of  Typical  Small  Filter-Mount  &  Filters  are Shown Below, 
         but I would use a  Much Larger Filter to handle output from 
         Big 10HP Motor & Pump.
         Prince   Hydraulic Oil Filters  --  45 GPM
          or
         Buyers  Hydraulic Return Filter Assembly  —  50 GPM Return  Model#  HFA21015
         or  equivalent.  

         If I owned 1 of these Machines,  I would Plumb-in a Filter Assembly!

  Strippit  Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine   Punch-Head Seals;

---   #17317-000    Item #24    BOTTOM  PISTON-WIPER  IN BASE-ASSEMBLY
---   #17318-000    Item #21    BOTTOM  PISTON-SEAL  IN CYLINDER
---   #17319-000                       PISTON  WIPER-SEAL,   2-USED
---   #17320-000    Items #17  &  #19    CYLINDER-END  O-RINGS
---   #17321-000    Item #8      ROD-SEAL
---   #17322-000    Item #6      ROD-WIPER

I now have Stock of Kits of these Special Seals!
See Above Photo.

If you have  "Lost" your  Operation  &  Maintenance Manual
Buy a  New Manual  Before Starting on this Adventure!!!
I still have a few Manuals left  For-Sale  at this time,
and I have Included  information of the Hydraulic Components.

Strippit  Super 30/40HD
Painted in the  1980's  Yellow with Racing-Stripes
When Visiting Our Farm,
Please
Do Not Piss-Off Our Animals

3  ---  Back-In-The-Day  in 1975  when Strippit's Engineers built the 1st 
Super 30/40-Hydraulic  Machine,   Engineer's put the 2  Hydraulic Hoses to
Punch-Cylinder on  Outside of the Frame where they would be Easy to get to.  
Then  Strippit's  Marketing-Pukes  looked at it and said  Move & Hide the Hoses
because they weren't Pretty!   True-Story.  
Remember  Strippit's  Marketing-Pukes when you Try to Un-Screw or Replace Hoses.

So Hoses were moved inside the frame where they are impossible to get to!
Every time you Punch with these Machines,  the Hoses Jump & Flex,  Inside the Frame,
from Punching Pressure Cycling on & off.   After many years of this, 
Hoses can  Wear & Blow-Out,  and are Extremely Difficult to Access and Replace.  
You will have to drop-down the Heavy Punch-Head to get access to hoses,
another Very Difficult  Operation.

If you are replaceing them,  Take Old Hoses to a  Good  Hydraulic Supply House  like 
  Parker Industries   or  
  Livingston & Haven    and make New Hoses out of  4000PSI  or  5000PSI  Components, 
do  NOT  use the Cheaper  2000 or  3000PSI  Stuff!



Later-On,  in the Early 1980's, 
somebody in  Strippit's Marketing Dept.  had a  Wet-Dream in the Shower, 
and came-up with the Idea of  Bolting a Tool-Turret on the Side of this
Excellent Single-Station Machine.     So Strippit Did.    A  12-Station Tool Turret Was just
Bolted-on  to the  Left-Side of the Frame,  and a  Very Clunky Indexing Mechanism
would advance the Turret  Very Slowly  &  Very Imprecisely  1 Station at a time.   
This  New Machine was called the   T-SAF 30.   
These  Crappy Machines  had many Problems,   so  Avoid them!


As if the  T-SAF 30  wasn't Bad enough,  
Strippit Marketing had  Another  Wet-Dream 
and told  Engineering Dept.  to take the  T-SAF 30  Machine  and  Bolt-on a  CNC Control
to make it a  Baby CNC Turret Punching Machine!   
So a  General Electric 1050  CNC  Control  &  Servo-Drives  were Just
Bolted-On  to the  Right-Side of the Frame.   This new Machine was called the   FC75/30.   They somehow thought it would go over Big in Europe,  but it never did.  
But they did sell a lot of them in the U.S.  Because they were Cheap.   
These  Machines are Automated Crap  and should be Avoided.


As the   T-SAF 30   and   FC75/30   were Built off the   Super 30/40HD  Machine
The  Punching-Head   &   Cylinder   &   Seals   &   Switches  are  all the  Same  
and use the  Same Repair Parts  and  Repair Notes Provided Above.


4  ---   As these Machines are now Decades old,   Cylinder Seals can  Wear-Out  or  even
Crack from old Age causing Punch-Cylinder to leak Oil at the bottom.  
Cylinder-Bore may need to be Honed-Smooth  if it's Scored from Dirt & Contaminants because you Didn't Change Oil regularly or add a By-Pass Filter.

Unfortunately,  it's a  Huge-Job  to Replace Seals.    I won't even do it.
Alan Suda,  in the  Mid-West  may do this work if he's in  The-Mood  &  has Time, 
and  Tom Penrod,  on the  West Coast  can also do this work.  
Both are listed on my   Independent  Strippit  Machine  Service Webpage

Otherwise,  you will Need to do this yourself.  
Depending on how far you need to go on taking this apart,  Getting Repair Parts,   Possibly Honing the Cylinder Bore,   Etc., 
Budget a few days  or  even a  Couple of Weeks Time to do it!

I believe both  Alan  &  Tom  Drop-Down Cylinder Assembly onto the Machine Table,
take-off Tool-Holder Base-Assembly  and  Cylinder Rod-End,  Leaving the
Hydraulic Hoses On assembly,  and  just Replace the  Lower Piston Seal  &  Wiper, 
as this is were most Leaks occur.

Alan has a  Special Laser-Cut  Plate he Made to Jack-In Piston & Seals back into Cylinder.  You may not be able to do it like them,  it's a Experience Thing.

Some Shops will Pull the Cylinder out and send it,  with a New Set of Seals, 
to a  Hydraulic Repair Shop to be rebuilt.   
Be Very Careful,  as the Cylinder Weights a  1/4 Ton!


5  ---   Try to Not Damage Switches as they are Not made anymore!  
Take Very Good Photos of  Limit  Switches  &  their  Set-Up  Before you take them all off!

If you are completely Disassembling the Cylinder,   the  #11  Switch Actuator Rod  is
held-on to Piston only by a  Item #10  Retaining Clip.   I had a Machine where the Clip
Popped-Off of the Piston so Switch-Rod became Loose.  
Customer had to Completely remove Switches,  Pull Cylinder,  sent it to a Rebuild Shop,  and  then reinstall everything back in Machine.   

Then  Switch Actuator Rod  Popped-Off,   Again!
Customer had to Completely remove Switches,  Pull Cylinder,  send it to the Rebuild Shop,  Again.   I Suggested Repair Shop  Mike-The-Clip Groove  and  Install a  Heavy-Duty  (Thicker)  Clip.    It took a  Month  and  Many Thousands of Dollars  to get this Machine Finally Repaired,    All over a  10-Cent  Retaining Clip!!!    

Re-Machine the Clip Groove on Piston if it is Buggered Up!  
Make Sure a  Heavy-Duty Retaining Clip  is Installed and Rod is Installed Very Well!
I might also try a   Smalley Spirolox Ring   which I think would Lock-Rod Better.

5  ---   There are  No Electronics  in a  Super 30/40HD  Machine.  
Just the  Punch-Head Limit Switches,  and   Several Relays.

Strippit Engineering was Confused by some  New  U.L.-Insurance Requirements in the Late 1970's when this Machine was designed,  and so Relay Logic is Much More Complicated than necessary,  and can be difficult to follow.  
I  replace Stock Relays with  Special LED-Light Type which Lights-Up when 
Relay is Pulled-In,  making it Much Easier to Trouble-Shoot  Problems.


6  ---   For Un-Know Reasons,  Strippit Stupidly made the Cams that go on the Switch Actually Rod  out of  6-Sided  Hex-Bar-Stock  on a CNC Lathe.   
Problem with this is the Tapered-Part of Cam actuates Switches OK,  
but  the  Rod Rotates over time,  and
6 Flat-Sides on Strippit's Cams do Not always actuate the switches correctly!  

My solution was to have a Machine Shop make me some New Cams with  No Flat-Sides!
Look closely at Cams I had made in Photos.    I do not sell these Cams, 
but if I can find my Drawings,  I may post my Cam Dimensions we used,  in the Future.

This page was last updated: October 8, 2019