Use  Short  Pin-Punch  &  Ball Peen Hammer to Carefully Tap  &  Pound-out
1/8"  Roll-Pins,   I  usually do these from the Top,  driving them Down & Out.
Some Machines you can Punch from the Bottom,  whatever works for you.

Next do  1/4"  Roll-Pins.   I usually do these from the Bottom Pounding them Up & Out.
Use the stout Short Pin-Punch to get it moving,  then switch to longer Pin-Punch.
You do have a Full Set of Short & Long Punches,  don't you?

If you don't have Punches,  you can also use Drill-Rod held with Pliers.
McMaster-Carr  #8893K147
Cut-Down to  3-inch long   .120" Drill-Rod to punch-out  1/8" Roll-Pins.
McMaster-Carr  #8893K201
Cut-Down to  3-inch long   .242" Drill-Rod to punch-out  1/4" Roll-Pins.

After 2  Roll-Pins are Tapped-Out on each side,  you should be able to Slide-Out the
Hook and Handle  Assembly on each side of Punch-Head.

Keep  Left  &  Right  Hooks  and  Left  &  Right  Handles  Carefully  Separated
so that you do Not become Confused when Reassembling!!!

Remove the Old Hooks from Handles.

Remove hold-down Screw and remove Old Cams from Handle Assembly.

Fit a New Cam onto Handle,  put a Drop of Loc-Tite on Screw Threads, 
and carefully install Screw into Cam.

Coat Cam Lightly with Grease
and
Very Carefully Tap Correct-Hook into
Correct-Handle with a Plastic-Hammer so that Cams are Not Damaged!
  Cams will fit Very Tight into Handles!

Slide Completed Hook & Cam Assembly back into Punch-Head.
When you slide Hook & Handles back into Head, 
use the  Solid-End  of a  7/32" Drill-Bit  to
Center  &  Line-Up  Cam-Hole with  1/4" Head-Hole for the 1/4" Roll-Pin.

If Cam  &  Roll-Pin  are  Not Lined-Up Perfectly
you will  Mangle  &  Damage  New-Cam
when you Pound the Roll-Pin back in!

Tap 1/8" Roll-Pin in from Bottom,
it Only needs to stick-up  1/8" into  Hook-Groove,
any more will only make it break-off sooner.

When,  not if,  Roll-Pin Tip Breaks-Off again someday,  
just tap-it up another 1/8" into groove again.
This can be done several times before you would need a new pin.

Grease everything,   and keep greased,
with a good  Synthetic Black-Moly Grease  to keep parts from wearing.

Strippit
Single-Station Machine
Hook  &  Handle
Installation Notes
This Photo shows a
Hook  &  Handle Kit
that we Used to sell.

Note the
Left  &  Right  Handles
which are
No Longer Available,
so don't
Mistreat yours
and
Break-Them!
Tips  &  Notes
for Extracting Roll-Pins
and
Installing  Hook and Handle Repair Kit

The Following is NOT Complete Step by Step Instructions.
If you Need Detailed Instructions and do Not have Proper Tools,
perhaps you should Call a Experienced Serviceman instead.
Starting about 1960,  the Strippit Company Up-Graded their Single-Station Punch Machines,  such as  Sonic 15,  Custom 18/30,  Super 30/30,  &  Super 30/40,  using their New-Style Swing-Arm Punch-Holder.   These Swing-Arm Punch-Holders used Strippit's  New,  at that time,  Hook & Handle System to Lock Punch-Holders to Machine.

Hooks & Handles  do Lock-In Holders well when New.

But,  eventually they accumulate Wear,  especially because  Operators  Never
Lubricate them with Grease.   This Wear allows Swing-Arm Holder to  Move & Deflect under Punch-Loading,  causing Poor Tool Alignment,  Poor Punched-Hole Quality, 
and Much Punch & Die Wear.

As Hook & Handle & Lock-Pin Wear gets worse, 
Handles will not even stay locked-in causing
Handle-Lock Limit-Switch to  Not-Close,  and the Machine Stops Punching.

The Correct Way to Repair would be to
Replace  Left & Right Hooks,
Replace  Cams on  Left & Right Handles,  and
Replace  the Lock-Pins on your Swing-Arms.

Rocket-Scientists at some Shops put
Bungee-Cords on Handles to keep them closed,
as if  Rubber Bungee-Cords would
Hold  Tool-Alignment  on a  30-Ton Punching Machine!!!

These Same Rocket-Scientists
also try a bit of Weld on Hooks or add Shims to
Force Hooks & Handles to Lock-Up, 
but then The Rocket-Scientists are Surprised
when  Hooks and Handles  Break into Pieces!

Now they have a Real Problem as Handles are a Precise Assembly that are
No longer Made  or  Available Anywhere!
So,  Don't Even Think Of Trying That!

Handle-Lock Limit-Switch is located behind the
Punch-Head Housing Assembly.

If Handles do Not Lock-Up properly to Close this Switch,
Machine will Not Punch.

When dropping-down this Punch-Head Housing Assembly
be Very Careful that you do NOT Damage these Parts!

I have the  Switch  &  Spring,
But Other Parts like  2 Rods,  Barrel,  Bracket,  Etc.,
are Very Hard to get   or just  NOT  Available!!!
Photo above is a  Strippit  Super 30/30  Punch Machine
with   3 1/2" Swing-Arm Punch Holder,   1 1/4" Swing-Arm Punch Holder,
and a   3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.
We now have  In-Stock a  Very Limited Supply  of
New  Hook & Handle Rebuild  Kits.

When they Sell-Out,  we are Not going to make more Kits,
so if you Need to Rebuild Yours,
Don't Wait Too Long!

1 Set of Lock-Pins come in the Rebuild Kit,  for 1 Swing-Arm.

Order a  2nd Set  of Lock-Pins  for your 2nd  Swing-Arm Holder!
First,  if you don't already have them,  acquire
a Good Set of Pin-Punches.   Here is a set of 4
that I bought from the  Mcmaster-Carr Co.

1/8"  Short Pin-Punch   #3416A13

1/8"  Long Pin-Punch   #3416A24

1/4"  Short Pin-Punch   #3416A31

1/4"  Long Pin-Punch    #3416A4
To rebuild Hooks & Handles,  Punch-head does Not have to be dropped-down off Machine. 
But, There is very little room to work-on Punch-Head Assembly when it is on Machine.   Which is why we have to  Make Very Short Pin-Punches.

So using a Abrasive Cut-Off Saw 
and a Belt-Sander to Dress the Ends,
Cut-Down  the  Pin-End 
on Long Punches to about  2 1/4", 
and I also
Cut-Down  Handle-End,   the  Shorter-The-Better
to also give me More Hammering Room.

I also Very Lightly Dress the Sides of Pins with Belt-Sander so that Pin is slightly Undersize and then will have Clearance to easily go into the Drilled Roll-Pin Holes.

When using,
you can hold Very Short Punches with Plyers.

And use a good set of 
Ball-Peen
&
Brass  Hammers.

Don't be an  Idiot
and try to use a
Claw-Hammer.

Pull-Out the 2 Old Lock-Pins
from your
1 1/4"  Swing-Arm Holder
and
Throw them Away!

Lightly Oil
2 New Lock-pins
from the Kit and
Insert them into Swing-Arm Holder.

Keep Pins Oiled to Reduce Wear.

1 Set of Lock-Pins come
in the Rebuild Kit,

Order a  2nd Set of Lock-Pins
for your Other
3 1/2"  Swing-Arm  Holder.


Remember,
If you are Dropping-Down
the Punch-Head for Any Reason
Always
Replace the  Packing Rings
and  Ram-Springs  using the
Punch-Head Rebuild Kit!

And,  if you have the
Punch-Head  Dropped-Down
for whatever reason,
it's  Very  EASY  to Install 
Hook & Handle Repair Kit
with the  Head-Down.

Note,   be Very Careful
when pulling
2 Specially-Made
Tapered Dowel Pins
that Locate Punch-Head. 

Special Tapered Dowels Pins
are No Longer Manufactured
so do  NOT  Bugger them up!
Use a Dowel-Puller to pull them!

Using a  5/16" Bolt  S.H.C.S.
Threaded into Dowel-Pin,
Tap Dowel Carefully
Back in place with a
Brass-Rod  &  Hammer.
This page was last updated: April 22, 2020
Actually,
There Really Are Monsters
Under Our Bed.....
Punch-Head Rebuild Kit!
And a Word to The Wise.

I would Build a Strong-Rack with 2 Good Wood-Holders
for my  2 Swing-Arm Holders,   Right Next to my Machine,
Because Your  Knuckel-Head  Operators
will leave the Swing-Arm Holder that they are not using
Sitting-Out on the Machine Table,
and sooner or later,   Will Knock it off Table
and
Cast-Iron  Swing-Arm Holder will  Split-In-Two  when it Hits the Floor.

Broken  Swing-Arm Holders  Can  NOT  be Repaired!

Swing-Arm Holders are  NOT  Manufactured anymore so you  Can't Replace it!