Use Short Pin-Punch & Ball Peen Hammer to Carefully Tap & Pound-out
1/8" Roll-Pins, I usually do these from the Top, driving them Down & Out.
Some Machines you can Punch from the Bottom, whatever works for you.
Next do 1/4" Roll-Pins. I usually do these from the Bottom Pounding them Up & Out.
Use the stout Short Pin-Punch to get it moving, then switch to longer Pin-Punch.
You do have a Full Set of Short & Long Punches, don't you?
If you don't have Punches, you can also use Drill-Rod held with Pliers.
Cut-Down to 3-inch long .120" Drill-Rod to punch-out 1/8" Roll-Pins.
Cut-Down to 3-inch long .242" Drill-Rod to punch-out 1/4" Roll-Pins.
After 2 Roll-Pins are Tapped-Out on each side, you should be able to Slide-Out the
Hook and Handle Assembly on each side of Punch-Head.
Keep Left & Right Hooks and Left & Right Handles Carefully Separated
so that you do Not become Confused when Reassembling!!!
Remove the Old Hooks from Handles.
Remove hold-down Screw and remove Old Cams from Handle Assembly.
Fit a New Cam onto Handle, put a Drop of Loc-Tite on Screw Threads,
and carefully install Screw into Cam.
Coat Cam Lightly with Grease and very Carefully Tap Correct-Hook into
Correct-Handle with a Plastic-Hammer so that Cams are Not Damaged!
Cams will fit Very Tight into Handles!
Slide Completed Hook & Cam Assembly back into Punch-Head.
When you slide Hook & Handles back into Head,
use a 3/16" or so bolt to
Center & Locate Cam-Hole with 1/4" Head-Hole for the 1/4" Roll-Pin.
If Cam & Roll-Pin are Not lined-up Perfectly you will Mangle & Damage
New Cam when you pound the Roll-Pin back in!
Tap 1/8" Roll-Pin in from Bottom, it only needs to stick-up 1/8" into Hook-Groove,
more will only make it break-off sooner.
When, not if, pin-tip breaks-off again someday,
just tap-it up another 1/8" into groove again,
this can be done several times before you would need a new pin.
Grease everything, and keep greased,
with a good Synthetic Black-Moly Grease to keep parts from wearing.
Hook & Handle
This Photo shows a
Hook & Handle Kit
that we Used to sell.
Left & Right Handles
No Longer Available,
Tips & Notes
for Extracting Roll-Pins
Installing Hook and Handle Repair Kit
The Following is NOT Complete Step by Step Instructions.
If you Need Detailed Instructions and do Not have Proper Tools,
perhaps you should Call a Experienced Serviceman instead.
Starting about 1960, the Strippit Company Up-Graded their Single-Station Punch Machines, such as Sonic 15, Custom 18/30, Super 30/30, & Super 30/40, using their New-Style Swing-Arm Punch-Holder. These Swing-Arm Punch-Holders used Strippit's New, at that time, Hook & Handle System to Lock Punch-Holders to Machine.
Hooks & Handles do Lock-In Holders well when New.
But, eventually they accumulate Wear, especially because Operators Never
Lubricate them with Grease. This Wear allows Swing-Arm Holder to Move & Deflect under Punch-Loading, causing Poor Tool Alignment, Poor Punched-Hole Quality,
and Much Punch & Die Wear.
As Hook & Handle & Lock-Pin Wear gets worse,
Handles will not even stay locked-in causing
Handle-Lock Limit-Switch to Open, and the Machine Stops Punching.
The Correct Way to Repair would be to
Replace Left & Right Hooks,
Replace Cams on Left & Right Handles, and
Replace the Lock-Pins on your Swing-Arms.
Rocket-Scientists at some Shops put Bungee-Cords on Handles to keep them closed,
as if Rubber Bungee-Cords would
Hold Tool-Alignment on a 30-Ton Punching Machine!!!
The Rocket-Scientists then try a bit of Weld on Hooks or add Shims to
Force Hooks & Handles to Lock-Up,
but then The Rocket-Scientists are Surprised
when Hooks and Handles Break into Pieces.
Now they have a Real Problem as Handles are a Precise Assembly that are
No longer made or available anywhere!
So, don't even Think of trying that!
located behind the
If Handles do Not Lock-Up properly to Close this Switch, Machine will Not Punch.
If dropping-down this
be Careful that you do NOT Damage these parts as they are Very Hard to get
Photo above is a Strippit Super 30/30 Punch Machine
with 3 1/2" Swing-Arm Punch Holder, 1 1/4" Swing-Arm Punch Holder,
and a 3 1/2" to 1 1/4" Die Adaptor.
We now have
a Limited Supply
Hook & Handle
1 Set of Lock-Pins come in the
for 1 Swing-Arm.
Order a 2nd Set
for your 2nd
First, if you don't already have them, acquire
a Good Set of Pin-Punches. Here is a set of 4
1/8" Short Pin-Punch #3416A13
1/8" Long Pin-Punch #3416A24
1/4" Short Pin-Punch #3416A31
1/4" Long Pin-Punch #3416A4
To rebuild Hooks & Handles, Punch-head does Not have to be dropped-down off Machine.
But, There is very little room to work-on Punch-Head Assembly when it is on Machine. Which is why we have to Make Very Short Pin-Punches.
So using a Abrasive Cut-Off Saw
and a Belt-Sander to Dress the Ends,
I Cut-Down the Pin-End
on Long Punches to about 2 1/4",
and I also
Cut-Down Handle-End, the Shorter the Better
to also give me more Hammering Room.
I also Very Lightly Dress the Sides of Pins with Belt-Sander so that Pin is slightly Undersize and then will have Clearance to easily go into the Drilled Roll-Pin Holes.
you can hold Very Short Punches with Plyers.
Pull-Out the 2 Old Lock-Pins
from your Swing-Arm Holder
and Throw them Away!
Lightly Oil the 2 New Lock-pins
from the Kit and
Insert them into Swing-Arm Holder.
Keep Pins Oiled to reduce wear.
1 Set of Lock-Pins come in the
Order a 2nd Set of Lock-Pins
for your 2nd
If you are Dropping-Down
the Punch-Head for Any Reason
Replace the Packing Rings
and Ram-Springs using the
Punch-Head Rebuild Kit!
And, if you have the
for whatever reason,
it's Very EASY to Install
Hook & Handle Repair Kit
with the Head-Down.
Note, be very Careful when pulling
2 Specially-Made Tapered Dowel Pins that Locate Punch-Head.
Special Tapered Dowels Pins
are No Longer Manufactured
so do NOT Bugger them up!
Use a Dowel-Puller to pull them!
With 5/16" Bolt S.H.C.S.
Threaded into Dowel-Pin, Tap Dowel Carefully Back in place with a
Brass-Rod & Hammer.
This page was last updated: January 5, 2019
There Really Are Monsters
Under Our Bed.....