Strippit  Super 30/30, Custom 18/30,  and Other
Strippit  Single-Station  Punch Machines
Machine Models,  Some History,  and Some Trouble-Shooting

George Wales Founded the Strippit Company in 1925.   Some Early Products were
Preloaded-Spring  Self-Stripping  Punch Unit  and  Single-Station Punch Machines that
used this  Strippit-Style  of Tooling.   Since then,  Strippit Co. has been  Bought,  Sold,  and Traded like a Poker-Chip.   Current Owner  LVD  Stupidly  Sold-Off "Strippit-Tooling"
to Wilson Tool Co.  in 2001This Style Tooling is Now Known as  "Thin-Turret Tooling".
Note,  There is More on  Tooling  Sizes  &  Types  Towards  BOTTOM of THIS  Web-Page
under   "Punch Tooling Sizes"  &  "Punch Tooling"   Sections Below.    READ--IT !!!
And there are  6 Tooling Co.  Web-Links  at  Bottom of  Web-Page  "Strippit vs Amada".

LVD-Strippit  has  Also  Stupidly  Abandoned Manufacturing  All   "SAF"  Machines
(Semi-Automated Fabricator) which Strippit called their Single-Station Manual Machines.
I will Divide  S.A.F.  Machines  that Strippit Made,  into  2  Broad Categories.
First  Machine Category   is Early-Type Punch Machines made 1925 to 1960.  These
Machines had Flywheel on Back of Machine,  used Awkward Punch Tool-Holder that Fit
Into Machine's Table Top,  and were made in  Models 10A, 10AA, 15A,  Etc.   Some
Models had a Duplicator Option.   You would Punch a Master Pattern-Sheet,  put it in
Duplicator Holder,  then Manually move Stylus to each Pattern-Hole.  Duplicator would
move Work-Sheet at same time under Punch Ram, and you would Punch Sheet as you
moved to each new position.  There are Little or No Parts & Service Support Available
for Pre-1960 Machines.   If you need a Part,  you need to Make-It in a Machine Shop or
look for a cheap  "Parts"  Machine from a  Used Machine Dealer,  Auction,  or  Ebay.
We at  Machine Technologies,  Do Not-Support these Early Machines in Any-Way,   As
We have a  Firm Policy of  NOT  Working on  Machines that are  Older Than  Our  Wives.
Strippit  Model 10AA  Machine
Strippit  Model 15A  Machine
Strippit  Model  10A  Machine
with Duplicator
and Old-Style Punch-Holder
Second  Machine Category   is Late-Type Punch Machines made 1960 to early 1990's.

Most Machines were Mechanical,  using  "New-Style Hydra-Mechanical Head"  with 
2-Flywheels in Front of Machine,  with 1 on Each Side of Frame.  There was also 
2  Hydraulic Machines Made,  Super 30/40HD  and  Super 36/75.  All used  New-Style 
"Swing-ArmPunch Tool-Holders  that Locked under Punch-Head,  and was Easier to
use than Old-Style Arm-Holder.   Punch Holders  came in  4  Sizes,    1 1/4 Inch,   
2x2 Inch Notch,  and  3 1/2 Inch   for 30 Ton Machines.   40 & 75 Ton Machines  also
used  Optional  5 Inch Holders.    NOTESizes  Refers  to   Largest  PUNCH-Size  that
Holder Could Take,   and   Is  NOT  the  Actual  Hole-Size  in  Swing-Arm Holder!!!

Machines Models   Sonic 18/30,  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/30,  Custom 30/40,  Super 30/40 (Mechanical),  Super 30/40HD (Hydraulic),  and the  Most-Popular   Super 30/30.
Model Name means following;   "Custom"  means the Work-Table is Fixed in it's Position,  where  "Super"  means Work-Table can be Moved Up or Down several Inches in Relation to Punch-Die Top Surface with a Hand-Crank Wheel on Lower Front of Machine.   Moving Table Down gives you Clearance around Die,  so you could Punch
a Hole in a Metal Box,  Angle-Iron,  or  some other  Already Formed Metal Part.

First Number, as in 18/30,  means Throat-Clearance,  in this case 18 Inches.  Second
Number Means Tonnage  Machine Supposedly could Punch.   These  "30 Ton Machines" were Not Really 30 Ton Machines,  they  Spray-Out Oil  &  Break Piston if used on Full-Capacity 30 Ton Holes  or  1/4" Thick Materials.   I Advise  NOT Using them over 20 Ton punch-holes or thick material.   Buy a Super 30/40HD  Hydraulic for High-Tonnage Holes!
Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines were made in  1960's  &  1970's,  and were just a 
Super 30/30  with Bigger Flywheels & Motor  and were  Definitely NOT 40 Ton Machines!
Strippit Model Sonic 15B,
Old-Style Machine with New Style Swing-Arm Punch-Holder
Strippit  Custom 18/30  Machine
Strippit  Super 30/30  Machine
with Table-Extension Option
Strippit  Super 36/75

In 1960's & 1970's,  Strippit made the
Super 36/75  Machine. 

These were  Very Heavy-Duty Machines
with a  36 Inch Throat and
Could  Punch  75 Ton  Holes!!!

They used a  Hydraulic Piston Driving  a
Mechanical  Knuckle-Mechanism  that
Drove the Punch-Ram.
Because of Problems trying to Punch 30 & 40 Ton Holes with Mechanical 30/30 & 30/40
Machines,  Strippit came out with  Super 30/40HD  (Hydraulic)  Machine in 1976.  These
Machines had No-Flywheels and used 10HP Electric Motor & Pump to Power Hydraulic
Ram Punch-Head.  Machines could Punch an Honest 40-Ton Hole & were Best of Strippit
S.A.F. Machines.   Recommended to Punch big holes in Thick Material or Stainless Steel.

Some Used Machine Dealers list  Mechanical  Super 30/40 Machines as the Superior
Super 30/40HD  Hydraulic  Machines,   because they Do Not Know any Better,   or  are
Dishonest.    Always Check-Out Machines  Carefully  BEFORE You Buy,  NOT  After!
Make Sure you get  BOTH   1 1/4"  &  3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holders   &   1 1/4"  Die-Adaptor!

Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted 1980's Yellow & Racing Stripes
Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted in  The 1970's  Puke-Green
This page was last updated: April 26, 2024
I specialize in Strippit HECC80-Control Turret-Machines, Not Single-Station S.A.F.
Machines.   However As a Service to You,  from Time to Time  I Add to This
Web-Page  more  Trouble-Shooting  &  Repair-Information  for  S.A.F. Machines.

I have a Few Repair & Operation Manuals  For-Sale,  and  Repair Parts Listed on this Webpage.   Buy a Manual  and  Learn to Maintain & Repair Machine Yourself!
Rebuilding Machines can be Tricky if You Don't have Tools & Prior Experience.
If You Need Field-Service Repairs In Your Shop,  Call These Servicemen;

Tom Penrod, Tracy, CA   Phone 209-814-7626    West-Coast Service Area.

Joe Normoyle,  La Puenta, CA   Phone 626-826-0007    West-Coast Service Area.

Denis Porter   R.I.P  7/9/10.   West-Coast Service Area.
He was  Best In The World  on  Repairing and Re-Machining S.A.F. Machines.

Alan Suda   708-826-9845,   Chicago  &  Mid-West  Service Area.
Very Good on  S.A.F.  Machines,   and  Strippit CNC Turret-Machines.

Bob Kelly   815-355-0531,  Chicago-Land Area.
Good on  S.A.F.  Machines,  and  Strippit  Fanuc-Control  Turret-Machines.

More Servicemen listed  "Independent Strippit Control & Machine Repair Service"
Web-Page,  &  All  6  U.S. Punch-Tooling Companies are Listed at Bottom of My
"Strippit vs Amada"   Web-Page.    Use The  Hot-Link Buttons  Below!

Trouble-Shooting  &  Repairs
S.A.F.  Machines are Quite Reliable.   But as  Most Shops Do  NO Maintenance  At All,
Machines are now 35  to  60+ years old,  and  as  Maintenance  "Rocket-Scientists"
may have  Modified Electrical Components,  they certainly can develop issues.
Some Common Problems are Listed lower in This Web-Page.
1 ---  Swing-Arm Holders   Often Shops Buy a Used Machine,  but  Fail to get
Both  1 1/4"  and  3 1/2"  Holders!  Or when Using Machine,  Operators  Switch  Back &
Forth  between 2 Holders.   Eventually 1  Falls-Off  Machine Table  and  Hits-The-Floor.
Holder will then Break into  2-Pieces  because  Strippit's Holders were  Brittle Cast-Iron.
You Can't Fix-It,  Many have Tried!     Our's were  Made of Cast Steel,  but  are  Sold-Out!
6 ---  Hooks  &  Handles
Left & Right  Hooks  and  Left & Right  Handles  Lock-In  Swing-Arm Holders to Machine.
Very Commonly Worn-Out on Single-Station Machines  so  Will  NOT  Stay Locked-In to
Keep Swing-Arm Holder  Tightly-Closed & Aligned.   This Allows Swing-Arm Holder to
Move and Wobble causing  Punch and Dies to Hit & Wear & Break,  with  Bad Punched-Hole Quality.   If your Knuckle-Head Operators have Bungee-Cords Holding Handles-Closed so it Will Punch,  it will  NOT  Hold-Alignment  when Punching  and your Hooks & Handles are Worn-Out!   Usually Replacing  Hooks & Cams & Lock-Pins will Fix Problem!
New Handles are Not Available,  but are usually OK.   May Require Black Delron  Round-Cams to be Replacedwhich are in Our Kit.   Some Early Machines used Steel-Cams.
  7 --- Maintenance

  If you do Not have a
  Manual for Your Machine
  You  Need  To  Get  One!
  And  Read--It!
We have a few Manuals
  left for
  ---  Custom 18/30
  ---  Super 30/30
  ---  Super 30/40 HD

5 ---  Bushings
1 1/4" &  3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder Bushings Wear-Out  from  Operators  NOT  using
Molykote GN Grease   on Tooling!   Wear allows Tools to  Move & Deflect,  causing
Tool-Wear & Burred Holes.   If you can Rock
New Tool  Back & Forth Much,  Bushing is Worn and should be  Replaced  &  Aligned.

#100734-000    3 1/2"  Bushing
#100230-000    1 1/4"  Bushing2.375" Flange
Right  is a  0  &  270 Degree  Bushing.
Degrees are Counted Clockwise from Front.
Original  #62533-000  Bushings Not available.
Some  Old  1 1/4" Bushings  may measure 
2.437" across  Top-Flangeuse  2.375" Now.
8 ---  Grease Your Bearings!
Left & Right  Crankshaft Bearings,  Pitman Bearing,  and 
Ram-Housing  Need to be Greased Every Week.   If you don't,
Bearings Gall-Up & Drag on Crankshaft,  Slows Crank Speed causing Loss of Punch Tonnage,  Crank can Grind to a Halt & Motor Overload will Trip-Out.   You now need Very Expensive Machine Rebuild.  Strippit Specified  Mobil EP1  Grease,  BUT 
I use Only  Synthetic Greases  which Protects  & Performs Better at  High & Low Temperatures  & does not dry-out and turn to thick-wax!   I use  Mobil  Synthetic
"RED Greases"   Mobilith SHC220   &   Mobil-1 Grease.   Chain
Grease-gun to Machine  or  it will  Grow Legs  &  Walk-Away!
9 ---  Maintain Proper Oil Level Inside Punch-Head!  Rotate  Right-Flywheel  Until Scribed  "B.D.C.  Line
(Bottom Dead-Center)  is Lined-Up with the Bottom of Electrical Box.   Use
#49579-000  Dip-Stick   to  Maintain
Proper Level of   Mobil  DTE-24  Oil   or  Mobil-1  0W-20  SAE Motor Oil
Do NOT Confuse ISO & SAE  Oil Grades!
Grainger Co.  is 1 Source of  DTE-24 Oil.
Use an  Old-Fashion Oil-Can   to add Oil  through  Trap-Door on Top of Piston.
Too-Little Oil   will  Short-Stroke  Punch.
Too-Much  Oil   will  Over-Stroke
and  Spray-Out Oil  while Punching.

Chain Your Dip-Stick to Machine  or it
will  Grow Little-Legs  and  Walk-Away!
If Your's is Already Gone,   We have
  Punch-Head  Dip-Sticks  In-Stock!
4 ---  Lock-Pins
#62560-000  Set of  2 Lock-Pins on  Each  Swing-Arm  that Hooks
Lock-on to.   Lube with Light Oil, should be able to Rotate Freely or will Develop a Wear-Spot Alignment Problems and need to be Replaced.   When Replacing Hooks & Handles,  Always Replace
Lock-Pins.  1 Set of Pins comes in  "Hook & Handle Repair Kit"  but most Machines have  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm  &  3 1/2" Swing-Arm,  So
You will Need   EXTRA  Set of Lock-Pins  for  your  2nd  Swing-Arm.
12 ---  Some Common Electrical ProblemsThis Section Applies to  Custom 18/30,
Custom 30/30,   Super 30/30,   Custom 30/40-Mechanical,  and  Super 30/40-Mechanical  Machines.   Does Not  Apply to Hydraulic Machines  Super 30/40HD  and  Super 36/75.

Trouble-Shooters need to Understand that SAF's were made for over 40 Years with
Many Variations in  Electrical Wiring,  Electrical Components,  and  Mechanical
Components.   You need to Understand how it Works  &  a Maintenance Manual with
Electrical Schematic  to do any Trouble-ShootingManual has Trouble-Charts & Theory.

As a Rule,   an  Electrical Device  Fails  in  1  of  2  Ways;
---  It   "Shorts"   or   "Short-Circuit"   meaning   Very-Low   or   No-Resistance.
---  It   "Opens"   or   "Open-Circuit"   meaning   Very-High   or   Infinite-Resistance.
---  Or  It is   Broken   or   Misadjusted   or   Miss-Wired   or   is  Wrong Repacement Part.

12A ---   Fuse Blows when you Try to Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.   Caused by Shorted Punch Solenoid Coil  or  wiring,  Normal Coil Resistance  is about  15  Ohms.

12B ---  No Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
---  Caused by Open Punch Solenoid Coil,  Normal Coil Resistance is about  15  Ohms.
---  Caused by Broken-Wire "Open" going to the  Punch-Piston  &  Solenoid Coil.
---  Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch  or  Lock-Switch Wiring being Broken or Open.
---  Caused by Broken  or  Open Switch  in Footswitch  or  Wiring to switch.

12C ---  Machine  Will Punch  with  Tool Handle Open  and  NOT Locked-In.
            ---  Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch being Shorted  or  By-Passed.

12D ---  Punches OK in Nibble,  but  Blows Fuse 4FU  and won't Punch in Single Mode.
        ---  Caused by Control Relay CR1 Coil Short,  Normal Resistance about 250 Ohms.
        ---  Caused by Shorted-Wiring  To or From   Single Switch,  1LS,  2CR,  1CR Coil.

12E ---  Punches  OK in Nibble,    No Punch in Single.     Some  Causes;
      ---  Limit Switch LS1 Open.    LS1  is  Normally-Open   &  Closes when Activated!
      ---  Limit Switch LS2 Open.    LS2  is  Normally-Closed   &  Opens when Activated!
      ---  Control Relay CR1 Failed  or  Coil  Open,  Coil About a Couple Hundred Ohms.
      ---  LS1  or  LS2   Wired Wrong.    LS1 is  Normally-Open,   LS2 is  Normally-Closed
           on most Later Machines,   but   Normally-Open  on  Very Early 1960's Machines!
      ---  Wrong Switches used,  Switches Miss-Wired,  or  Switches Misadjusted.

12F ---  Varying Short to Normal Stroke in Single,  Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS1 Short.   LS1 is  Normally-Open  &  Closes when Activated!

12G   ---  Starts Nibbling when Punch in Single Mode,  must Turn-Off Machine to Stop.
Caused by Limit Switch LS2 Short.   LS2 is  Normally-Closed  &  Opens when Activated!

12H  ---  Fuse 4FU Blows as Punch Ram starts to move down in Single or Nibble.
       ---  Caused by  Burned-Out  &  Shorted  Solenoid Coil,  or  Wiring to Solenoid Coil
       ---  Caused by Control Relay CR2 Coil Short,  Normal Resistance About 2000 Ohms

12i  ---  Machine continues to Punch in Single as long as Foot Petal is Depressed.
         ---  Caused by Control Relay CR2 Open,  Normal Resistance is About 2000 Ohms.

12J  ---  No Punch in Single,  but  Nibble Punches Without Depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Limit Switch LS3 Short.   NoteEarly Machines do Not have this LS3 Switch
which was Added to Eliminate Possibility of Double Punching in Singe-Punch Mode.

12K  ---  Constant Nibble Punching in Single Mode,  Normal Operation in Nibble Mode.
             ---  Caused by Limit Switch  LS3 Open.

12L  ---  1 Punch at Power-On in Single  or  Punching in Nibble
             without depressing Footswitch.    ---  Caused by Shorted Footswitch or Wiring

12M  ---  3-Phase Fuses Blow.    Caused by;
---  Wrong  A.C. voltage to machine or motor & transformer not wired for correct voltage
---  Bad  (Shorted)  Press-Drive Motor        
---  Stalled Motor from Bad Crankshaft Bearings  or  from  Old  Hardened Grease
---  Shorted / Melted  Step-Down Transformer.    Caused by  Wrong  A.C. Voltage  to   
      Machine  or  Big-Loads  Plugged-In  to  120 VAC Machine Power Socket,  like a
      Cooling Fan.   This Power-Socket was made  ONLY  for a 60 Watt Work-Light!

NoteVery Early 1960's Machines  WITHOUT  FRONT--LS3  Switch  had  LS2 Switch  on
Right-Flywheel  wired  Normally-OPEN.    Later Machines had  Wiring Changed  with
Front-LS3 Switch  ADDED  and  LS2 Switch on Right-Flywheel wired  Normally-CLOSED.
LS1 Switch  on  Left Flywheel  has  Always been wired  Normally-OPEN.

Punch-Tooling   Punch-Tooling   Punch-Tooling
I get many Calls on  Where to Buy  NEW  Punch Tooling  &  Dies.
Sadly  and  Quite-Stupidly,   LVD Strippit   Sold-Off  ALL Their  Tooling-Lines,   and
NO Longer Makes   "Strippit Tooling"   that  The Strippit Company  was Named for!
This Type of Tooling  is  NOW Known  as   "Thin Turret Tooling".
Most Strippit  Single-Station SAF-Machines  Use  Only   "Thin Turret Tooling".

A very few Single-Station Machines that had a  CNC-Control Factory-Installed,
like the   "AG's" (Auto-Gageing)   and   "Super 750's",   May have been 
Optioned & Manufactured  to take   "Thick-Turret  /  Long  /  Amada"   Type of Tooling.
I have  6  Hot-Links  to  U.S. Manufactures  of  Punch-Tooling  at  Bottom of Web-Page
"Strippit  vs  Amada"
So,  PLEASE  Go To  THAT   Web-Page  To  See These  6  Tooling Company  Links!!!
2ND Generation is the "AG's".  Made in Late 1980's & Early 1990's,  Strippit took their Custom 18/30 & Custom 30/30  SAF Machines  and  Bolted-On Cheap  Earlix
Japanese  2-Axis CNC Gageing Control,  to make a  Auto-Gageing (AG)  Machine.
At Left,  is 1987 Vintage Super 30/30AG  Machine with  "Long Tooling"  Option.
--  Earlix Control Co. is  Out of Business!
--  NO  Control Parts  are  Available!
--  NO  Strippit  Support  is  Available!
--  NO  Service  is  Available!
--  AVOID  These  "AG"  Machines!!!
--  AVOID  means don't Fucking Buy one!
CNC  Side-Gage  &  Auto-Gage  Machines
Strictly Speaking,  These are Not  SAF Machines.
They are  Auto-Gageing (AG)  and  NC  &  CNC  Single-Station  Punch Machines.
Strippit has had 4 Generations of these Types of Machines,  ALL  Should Be  AVOIDED!
1St Generation  was  FM36/75 (Fabra-Matic) Machines.  Strippit made Both  Manual
Super 36/75  SAF Machines  as well as Automatic   NC-Control  Fabra-Matic 36/75 Machines  in 1960's & 1970's with a
Hughes 200 or General Electric  NC-Control.

NC Controls  had No Memory,  simply read Information from Papertape,  moved  X & Y Axis with the Part-Sheet,  and  Punched when In-Position.   A Program Stop was made when Operator was Required to Manually Change Tool.   No Parts  &  No Service is Available for these Machines.
3ND  Generation  is the   SG750,   FC750SG,   Super750,   Super750SG,   Super750/40,   Super750/40SG,   Which are  Pretty-Much  All the Same Machine  as
Strippit  Stupidly,  Just  Couldn't make up their Mind on What to Call Them!

In 1990's,  Strippit Finally designed a Decent Auto-Gageing Single-Station Machine,  But Ruined It by putting another Crappy Strippit  PC-Control on it Made with Consumer Type
PC-Computers which are NOT Designed to last more than 3 to 5 Years.  And LVD-Strippit has a Reputation for NOT Supporting Their Old PC-Controls.   In this Case  "Control"  Requires Old PC-Computer that Runs on  DOS  ( DOS  Pre-Windows from Early 1980's! )
or  Old Windows 95,  so when you have Problems,  you find Newer Computers  and Windows DO NOT WORK on it,  so you Can't Get Parts to fix it!   I get many calls on Super750's with Computer Problems.   Again,  Machine is Good,  BUT  AVOID  because
there is  NO Service,  NO Parts,  NO Tech Support  for  Strippit's  Crappy  PC-Controls!
I would Replace Machine with  Fiber-Laser  or  Amada Turret Punch.
The  4ND Generation  is the  "Alpha's"

These were a  Updated  &  Redesigned Super 750 and were Good Machines that Worked Well,  When New.  Machines used yet Another Version of Strippit's
Crappy  PC-Control, Which is Machine's Problem Area.  Production Started
about 2005  &  ended about 2007.
AVOID  (Don't Fucking Buy)  for Above
NO  PC-Control  Support  Reasons!!!
3 ---  3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor
30-TON  Machines  came with  Die-Pedestal that
Accepts a  Standard  3 1/2" Die.   To Use  1 1/4"  Tooling  you need  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm
Tool-Holder   AND   3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.

  Punch  Tooling  Sizes!
As there are Thousands of these  S.A.F.  Machines Out-There,  many  New People  & Small-Shops  are Picking-Up these Machines at  Local Shops  or  at Auctions,
and  have  NO  Idea What  The Tooling Sizes Meanand  are  Thoroughly Confused.

For Instance,  they  WRONGLY  Measure   "The-Hole"  in their  1 1/4" Holder,  and see
that it is  1 1/2",   and  They Think they need  1 1/2" Tooling,   which  Does  NOT  Exist!

For Standard  "Strippit-Style"  "Thin-Turret"  Tooling,   There has  Only  Been  4  Sizes,
  1 1/4",     3 1/2",     5",    and    2" x 2" Notch   Tooling!

For Example,  1 1/4"  Tooling  means a type of Small-Tooling that can hold a Punch from
0  to  1 1/4"  in Size.     Obviously,  Punch-Holder  that Holds Tooling  Must be Larger
than Biggest Punch Tool Size.    All  1 1/4"  Type  Punch-Holders are  1 1/2"  in Diameter.
And  By a  Wild--Coincidence,   This is  Same Size  of the  "Hole"  in a   1 1/4"  S.A.F.
Swing-Arm Holder  or  a CNC-Turret   1 1/4" Station,   that the   1 1/4" Tooling Fits into!

----    1 1/4"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   1 1/4"   Punch Sizes,
       and  fits into a  Holder of   1 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    Notch-Tooling   takes  Special   0"  to   2"   Punch Sizes,   but  is Almost Always a
        2" x 2" Square,  and fits into a  Special  Notch-Holder  that is   3 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    3 1/2"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   3 1/2"   Punch Sizes,
        and  fits into a  Holder of   4 3/8"  in Diameter.

----    5"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   5"   Punch Sizes,  and  fits into a
        Holder of   5 7/8"  in Diameter.     Note,  I believe that  5" Thin-Turret Tooling  is
        NO Longer Manufactured Anywhere,  so  all  5" Holders  &  Tooling is Worthless!
Rare "2 x 2 Notch"  Swing-Arm Holder. So Named because they almost always have a  2" x 2" Square Punch in it for Corner-Notching  and  Blanking-Out Large Holes.   These  CAN-NOT  Hold
a  Standard  3 1/2" Tool!
This uses same  2" x 2" Notch Punch
Tool  used in  "Notch Station  #1"
in  Older Strippit  Turret-Machines.
There was a Large 5 Inch  Swing-Arm Holder
available for  40 Ton  S.A.F.  Machines.
These Holders & Stripping-Guides were Very Heavy and Hard to Handle.   5" Swing-Arms,  5" Punch-Holders,  and  5" Tooling  are No Longer Manufactured,  so are Now Useless.

10 ---  #49011-200  Solenoid
Solenoids Burn-Out when Failed Switches allow A.C. Power to be on Continuously.   Find Failure or
you will  Burn-Out Solenoid again!   "Nibble-Mode" Punching  can also  Burn-Out Solenoids!   A  Good
Solenoid Coil  is About  15  Ohms ,  a Bad Coil is
"Shorted"   Zero Ohms   or    "Open"   Zillions of Ohms.   You have to  Drop Ram-Housing  and
Rebuild Punch-Head to Replace,  a Pain-in-the-Ass.
Get  Rebuild Kit  Below!   Align  Solenoid-Plunger
with  Slot in Solenoid  or  you will  Smash-It  when
you  Jack-Up Housing back in place!

When Energized, Solenoid  pulls-in Plunger
which pulls-up Stop-Bolt,  which Pulls-Up & Closes
Piston-Valve to Trap-Oil on next Piston down-stroke which pushes Ram down to Hit Punch-Tool.

Over past 60 years Strippit used several Plunger &
Stop-Bolt combinations to try to improve punching. There were at  Least  6  Stop-Bolt  Types!!!
#71800-000  Short-Type,  1.900" long
#85541-000  Spring-Loaded  int.-thread  3.125" long
#74579-000  Solid  External-Threads  3.281" long
and  Bolts  Must Use  their Matching-Type Plunger!
We now Stock the
Most Common   &  Best-Type   Matching--SETs  of;
#74579-000   Solid  Stop-Bolt,   The Best-Type  and
#62874-000   Plunger,   for the  Solid Stop-Bolt
11 --  #119951-000  Punch-Head Rebuild Kit.  When you Drop-Down Ram-Housing
        ALWAYS  Rebuild  Punch-Head  with  New  Packing-Rings  &  Ram-Springs!

1 --  #10461-000    Steel Drain-Ball
1 --  #10925-000    Set-Screw, Steel Ball-Retainer
2 --  #11153-000    Retainer-Ring Set-Screws without Ny-Loc,    Or
       #10871-000    Retainer-Ring Set-Screws with Ny-Loc Thread-Lock
3 --  #11143-000    Nylon-Ball,  used under Retainer-Ring Set-Screws,  1-Extra
2 --  We Now Replace Plain Set-Screws & Nylon-Balls with Brass-Tip Set-Screws!
2 --  #10859-000    Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw with Ny-Loc, for Ram-Plate
4 --  #11489-000    Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw,  for Cover-Plate,
                               Note, Some Manuals List Incorrect  #11499-000 for this Part!
1 --  #12593-000    O-Ring
1 --  #16144-000    O-Ring     NOTENot All O-Rings will be used,  as there are
1 --  #14360-000    O-Ring      Different Machine Versions built over 60+ Years!
1 --  #10651-000    O-Ring
1 --  #49509-000    Set of  4  Packing-Rings
4 --  #49516-000    Ram Springs
1 --  Locktite-243  Thread-Locker  for use on all  Screws  &  Set-Screws
  Punch-Head  Rebuild Kits

We have  Punch-Head  Rebuild Kits
with  Parts Needed  to  Rebuild your
Strippit   10AA,  15AA,  Super 30/30,
Custom 30/30,  Sonic 18/30, 
Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/40, 
Super 30/30-AG,  18/30AG 
and   Super 30/40-Mechanical
( NOT  30/40-HD )  Punch-Heads.

Use   Locktite-243  Thread-Locker
Included in Our Kit,
on the Screws to keep them Tight!
14 ---  #62081-000  Finger Stop Assembly  for Side-Gaging.   Make sure you get
  these when Buying your Machine!  Strippit also made Micrometer Side-Stops
  that could be accurately adjusted for more Precise Gaging than Finger-Stops.
  BUT,  I would have a  DRO  Electronic Scale and Readouts  Fitted to Machine,
            like these   ACU-RITE  DRO  Digital Readout Systems.
The Following is a Few Tips on  Rebuilding the Punch-Head.
Make Sure You Have a Manual  Before  You Start Rebuilding!
  PULL  the  2  Taper-Dowel Pins
  Now you know Why I Have a
  Dowel Pin Web-Page,
  Click-On  The Link Below!
Block-Up Head so it won't Fall.  You will Need a Allen Hex-Socket Set.  A Pipe makes a Good Torque-Amplifier to Loosen & Tighten Bolts.
I just Put-In  New Hooks & Handles  in this Machine,  as Old Handles would Not
Lock-In,  and  Swing-Arm could be Rocked Back & Forth,  so it  Ate-Up Tooling.

There is a  1/8" Roll-Pin,  that Sticks-up 3/16",   to Engages Slot in Bottom of each Hook,  to make Hooks Open when you pull Handles so you can Remove Swing-Arm.
Unfortunately,  Pins are Always Broken.
Put in New Pins,  which are in our Kit.

Packing-Ring Retaining-Ring Usually has
2 Indentations on Bottom for a Special 2-Pin Spanner Wrench, which you can make.
Or you Tighten Ring as much as you can by Hand,  then Tap-It Tighter with a Small Pin-Punch and Small Hammer, 
which  Will  Bugger-Up  Screw-Holes.....

Try  Hard  NOT  to  Bugger-Up  the
Ring  &  Piston  &  Set-Screw  Threads!!!
---  Make Sure Solenoid  and
Solenoid-Plunger  are  Aligned,
or  you could  Break Solenoid
if you  Force-Up Ram-Housing!

---  New Packing-Rings sometimes make it Difficult to Get Ram-Piston back into Housing.   A Second Set of Hands can Help a Lot.

---  Carefully  Pry-Up  and
Block-Up  Ram-Housing
into Position.

---  Thread a Bolt into both
Dowel Pins,  and  Carefully Tap
Dowels into their Holes.
Do  NOT  Damage  Special Taper
Dowel Pins as they are  NO Longer Available!  Do both Sides several times to Locate the Housing Well.   Remove 2 Bolts.

---  Put in the  4  Bolts,  and
    Tighten them  Back & Forth
     Several times.
13 ---  Clean & Lube Tooling  Regularly!
Inside Tools to Prevent Galling & Cold-Welding
between  Punch-Tool  &  Stripping Guide.
AND  Outside of Tools to Prevent Wear on
Stripping Guide  and  Holder  and  Bushing!
Also,  Grease-Up your  Hooks & Handles  to help keep them from Wearing-Out!
This is 1 of the Best Lubes I have used.
Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease. Synthetic-Base has High Film-Strength,  does Not Dry-Out and Harden like Regular Grease,
and has  Extreme Pressure Additives
Molybdenum Disulfide   &  Graphite.   A Tub is
Part #SL3303  at  NAPA  and  PEP-Boys Stores.
This Customer Moved & Wired-Up His  Super 30/30 All By Themselves.   But,  they Put the Wrong Voltage on it and Melted Transformer.   Strippit Made these Machines for 40+ Years and Used different Transformers.  It is Difficult to get Exact Transformer to Match Bolt Holes and Limited Space Inside Electrical Cabinet.   We Do Stock a
Heavy-Duty  .35KVA  Replacement Transformer.

In Photo we used  Enclosed  .25 KVA Transformer,
(.35  or  .5 KVA  is Better)  and  just Mounted it on Back of Control Cabinet.   Quick & Easy to Do.
Remember,  if  Changing  Machine  Voltages;
---  Pull-Motor Out  &  Redo  Voltage Tap-Wires
---  Retap  Transformer  Wires
---  Resize  &  Change Fuses
---  Resize  &  Change  Motor  Overload-Heaters
---  Tag-Machine  with  New Voltage  Information!
Mag Switch Retrofit
One of Many Machines Variations was in  LS1 & LS2  Switches activated by 2 Flywheels.  In 1960's, 1970's,  and 1980's  different Brands of Mechanical Switches  were used,  Allen Bradley,  MicroSwitch,  G.E.,  Etc.    We Only Sell  MicroSwitch Types as they Work Best!

Switches made Constant  "Clacking"  Sound as they were Hit by Flywheel Cams when Machine was On.   Because Switches are  Constantly being Hit Hard by Flywheel-Cams about  Twice a Second  (60,000 Time a 8-Hour Shift!)  when Machine is On, 
Even When Not Punching,  Switch life could be Short.   Turn-Off  Machine if Not Using it!

In Early 1980's,  Switches were converted to Non-Contact Proximity Switch that was activated by Magnets Mounted on 2 Flywheels.   Machines now left Strippit Factory with these Switches as Standard.   Note,  These Switches also will Eventually Wear-Out!

There was also a Retrofit Kit  #105090-000  to Convert Older Machines to this new type
of Switches,  and many Machines had this Kit Installed in the Field.  
As Machine would No longer make the  "Clacking"  Sound,  a Indicator-Light  was
added to  Upper Panel as part of the Kit to  Alert Shop People that Machine was  "On".
#19274-000     Normally-OPEN  Switch   (Red-Wires Type),        LS1  is on the  Left Side.
#19275-000     Normally-CLOSED  Switch   (Blue-Wires Type),    LS2  is on the  Right Side.
#105092-000   Magnet.    2  are used,   1 Magnet is Mounted on each Flywheel.
After  Over a Half-Century of Production,  LVD Strippit,  In Their
Retarded Infinite Wisdom,  NO Longer Makes Any Single-Station Machines At All!
1 1/4  Inch Swing-Arm Holders

These are
Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!
To use Standard  1 1/4"  Type Tooling you will Need a  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm Holder   as Above & you will need a  3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor  as in  Section 2 Below
We Have Brand-New
3 1/2  Inch Swing-Arm Holders  For-Sale!

These are Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!

OK,   Newbies,   Now  Listen Up!!!
To use  Standard  Strippit  "Thin-Turret"
3 1/2"  Type Tooling,  Buy a  Tool-Set,
of  PunchDie,  & Stripper-Plate.

Then Install  Punch  &  Stripper-Plate  into
3 1/2"  Stripping-Guide  Punch-Holder
Assembly  as Shown  At Right.

We have a few  Good-Used  3 1/2"
Stripping-Guide Assemblies  For-Sale.

You then Drop-In  3 1/2" Stripping-Guide Assembly,  that is already Loaded with Your Punch & Plate,  into  3 1/2"  Swing-Arm Holder  and  Lock-It  In Tight with
Hooks & Handles into Machine.   Got It?

2 ---  5" to 3 1/2"  &  1 1/4" Die Adaptors  40-TON  Super & Custom 30/40
Machines  came with  6 1/2" Wide Die-Opening for  5" Dies.    For  3 1/2" Dies,
use  5" to  3 1/2"  Die Adaptor.   For  1 1/4"  Dies,  use  5"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.
Teach Operators to  NOT-Cross  Punch & Dies  as it can   Break Die Adaptors!
The Following are Some Good Used Repair Parts that we have Gathered.
These are 1 of a Kind Parts,  so if you need them,  Buy Them NOW,
as when they are Gone,   we are  Not likely to Ever have them again!
New  Super 30/30
360-Degree  Die Index-Ring

If your Die Index-Ring is
Broken or Missing  we have a
Small-Stock of  New
Stainless-Steel  Index-Rings.

Note !
Ring Needs to be  Aligned with
Index-Tool  or  Alignment-Tool
Barrel Micrometer
Gaging Stop Assembly with
No Knuckle-Head  Protection.
Dial Indicator
Gaging Stop Assembly
Barrel Micrometer Gaging Assembly.
Assembly has Protective Cage Around Micrometer so  Knuckle-Heads  can't
Smash it with their Sheetmetal Parts.
These 3 Gaging Stops are hard to find!
Shown Above,  we Sell New  White CR2  Relay   &  Gray Contactor  to replace  Original
CR1 Relay that is No Longer Available.   Strippit Machines were  Wired  MANY Different Ways over 40+ Years of Production.    So,  we Cannot tell you  Exactly how-to wire-in Replacement  CR1.   It's Not that hard,  But  Needs to be Installed  by  Someone who Understands  Electricity & Wiring,  as  Wiring Variations to be Figured-Out at  Installation!
My Friend  Denis Porter  in  "California Shaker".
His Boat did  137 MPH  in  Less Than  8 Seconds in  The  1/4 Mile Drag-Race.
He also Raced Flat-Track Harley's in Younger-Days  and  Flew Ultra-Lite Aircraft!
Denis Got His Last-Wish  7/9/10 at Speed in This Boat on Lake San Antonio, CA.
Rest In Peace  Denis
Remove Ram from Housing assembly to replace 4 Ram Springs.

Don't be like  The Meat-Heads
that tried to  Beat-Ram  out of this Housing with a  Sledge Hammer!
I had to have their Ram and Housing Re-Machined for  $1000+ after their Attempts at  "Repairs".
Take out  Spiral Retaining-Ring  First!
You can then  Push-Out By-Hand  or
Tap-Out with Brass-Hammer   Ram.

Look at  Diagrams in Your Manual
Before  you try to take it Apart!

No Manual?   Buy  1  Today!!!
Rams are often Ruined when bottom Striker-Plate gets Loose,  But your   Knucklehead Operator  Keeps-On  Punching-Anyway,  until
Flat-Head Bolts Break and Bolt Hole Threads are Ripped-Out of Ram. 
New threaded-holes can be Drilled & Tapped by a Good Machine Shop.
---  Make Sure Safety Interlock LS4 Switch Wires  are
Not Pinched  in Back of Housing when you Bolt-It back to Frame.

---  This Switch Assembly is Made-Up of several Parts that are  Expensive & Difficult  to get so  Do  NOT  Damage Them!

---  Run a File Over Back of Housing  &  Machine Frame
Mounting to Eliminate  All  Burrs
that Cause Tool Miss-Alignment!
A Little Trick from
Dandy-Don Dahlin,  R.I.P.,  from my  Old Strippit Service Days.

When Trouble Shooting Electrical Problems,  Take-Out
8  Control Panel Screws,  Move
Panel Up  and  Re-Attach it to Top of Electrical Box  with
2 of the Mounting Screws.

Now you can  Run-Machine  & Troubleshoot Electrical Problems while having Access to Switch Terminal-Strip.

Hint.   Don't Leave Machine-On for Hours & Hours when Not
Using it,  as Ram is Always Going Up & Down,  About
60,000 Times  a  8-Hour Shift,
Wearing-Out  Switches,  Ram Springs,  &  Packing-Rings!!!
Very Hard-To-Find
1 1/4  Inch  Swing-Arm Tool Holder
in Very Good Condition.
Hook & Handle  Repair Kit
Only a  Limited Quantity  of
Hook & Handle Repair Kits  left!

We are  Makeing the  LAST
BATCH  of these  Kits Now!

  Hook & Handle  Repair Kit   has;
---  Left  &  Right  Hooks
--- 2  Handle Cams
--- 2  Cam  Retaining Screws
--- 2  Lock-Pins,  for  1 Swing-Arm
--- 4  Hook-Slot  Roll-Pins, 2-Extra
--- 2  Pivot  Roll-Pins

Very Hard-To-Find
3 1/2  Inch  Swing-Arm Tool Holder
in Very Good Condition!

New  Tool Lifter-Kit  for
1 1/4" Swing-Arm Holder

New   3 1/2"  Lifter-Kit   for
3 1/2"  Swing-Arm Holders

The  Creonics Saga
In 1980's,  a Company called  Creonics Manufactured the  "Panelgage"  which was a Simple  CNC Gageing System  that could be Retrofitted  In-Your-Shop  to Various Machines,  Including  Single-Station Strippit Machines.

On Strippit's,  the Original Strippit Mechanical Gageing System was Removed  (And Then Promptly Lost)  &  Replaced with Programmable
CNC Gageing System.   My Understanding is
when  New  (30+ years ago)  these Systems worked quite well in certain applications.
However,   I would  NOT  Recommend Buying a Machine with a Creonics,  or any Other,  Retrofit;
---  Creonics is  Long Out-of-Business  as they 
    were  Bought Out by the   Allen Bradley Co.
    which is now part of Rockwell Automation Co.
---  The Retrofitters that did these are Long Gone
---  NO  Creonics Parts  &  NO Service
---  As Machines have been Bastardized,  so
     Strippit will NOT work on Machines anymore.
---  Can NOT use Manual Gageing Anymore.
---  The Mechanical Parts to Convert Back to
      Mechanical Gageing are NOT available.

Electronic Labs  like;   (Google  "Creonics")
Test Point Inc.   or  ACCU Electric Motors Co.
New England Computer Controls     or
PLC Talk.Net   Say they Repair Circuit Boards 
But  I  Really Doubt it!   Allen Bradley may Offer a Bit of Control Help.    But,   AVOID  as  You
are  On-Your-Own  with  Retrofitted  Machines!

In the Early 1960's,  Strippit used 
Old-Style   3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder
in their  S.A.F. Machines.  

Swing-Arm does  NOT have a Tool-Lifter!  Instead, it used a  Old-Style
3 1/2" Stripping-Guide with  4 Lifter-Springs Built-In to  Lift Stripping-Guide.

Old-Style  Stripping-Guides are  NO longer available!   You can  NOT  use
New-Style  Stripping-Guide in a
Old-Style Swing-Arm as it does Not have Tool-Lifter!  Old Swing-Arms can
be Machined to add  Lifter-Kit  to use  New-Style Stripping-Guide Assembly.
Install  4  Packing Rings  Correctly !!!
Solid-Side  of  Each Ring  Goes UP!
Open Lip-Side of each Ring goes DOWN!

Make Sure Retaining Ring is Screwed-On
VERY Tight.  Nylon-Balls on Set-Screws or New Brass-Tip Set-Screws  Hold Ring without Buggering-Up Piston-Threads!  New Kits  use  Brass-Tip  Set-Screws.
Don't Forget
to  Replace the
2 Drive-Belts!

We Stock these
Drive-Belts Sets

If your  Ram Retaining-Ring  is
Missing,  Bent,  or  Broken,
We now Stock the
Special  Spiral Retaining-Ring
located at
Top of the  Ram-Housing.
Proper Switch Actuation is  Critical  on these Punch Machines!   "Off-Brand"  Substitute Switches and Worn-Out Switches & Switch Arms Cause a Variety of Punching Problems.
When in Doubt we  Replace   LS1  (Left)  &  LS2  (Right)  Switches  with Part  #49790-040. With Correct Switches,  we  Set  Arm-Rollers to Not-Quite Touch Flywheel  and  Switch would Activate  (Switch)  Half-Way Up Cam.  This  ONLY  Works With  Correct  5-Degree
Switches!   Put Drop of Oil on Center of Roller so it Rolls & Not-Drags Cutting a Groove in Cams.  LS3  Double-Punch Prevent-Switch  (Center)  is Part  #12979-000.  Very Early 1960's Machines did Not have LS3 Switch & Wired Differently, LS2 wired Normally-Open!
Later  Vertical-Type LS3  was added,  Finally Changed to  Horizontal-Type LS3  Switch.
We Stock The Correct
LS1,  LS2,  and   LS3

Note!  A few Early 1960's Machines had Different LS3  Mounted Vertically
with a Vertical-Roller,
or  even No LS3 at all!

We  Stock  LS1  &  LS2  Mag-Switches   &   Switch-Magnets
In the Late 1960's  &  Early 1970's  Some
Single-Station Machines were built with 2
of these Early Magnetic Sensors that Detected Metal.   Sensors did Not work well,  have NOT been Manufactured for Decades,  and are Not Available Anywhere.
These  Old  LS1  &  LS2   Sensors were 
1"  x  3 1/2"  Long.

When you have Trouble with these,  you will Need to Install  Mechanical Switches
or  Mag-Switch Retrofit Kit  to Repair.
Left  &  Right  Handles
New Handles are   NOT  Available!

REBUILD  Your  Handles  with
New  Cams  in our
Hook & Handle  Repair Kit  Below!

Left  &  Right  Hooks
We Do Have  a  Very Small Supply  of  Refurbished
1 1/4"   and   3 1/2"  Swing-Arm Holders,    As Shown Below
3 1/2 Inch  Stripping-Guide  Punch Holders   For-Sale!
1 --  C.E.Tooling Type  On-Left,    2 --  Strippit Type  On-Right
Holders also  Come-With  Punch,  Die,  &  Stripper-Plate   as Shown
Finger-Stops!   Finger-Stops  are Normally
Tapped  Back & Forth  into Position.
Do  NOT  be a  Knuckelhead  using a  Steel Hammer!!!
Get  Brass Hammer  #5978A52  from  McMaster-Carr  Co.