Strippit Super 30/30, Custom 18/30, and Other
Strippit Single-Station Punch Machines
Machine Models, Some History, and Some Trouble-Shooting
George Wales Founded the Strippit Company in 1925.
Some of their Early Products were the Preloaded-Spring Self-Stripping Punch Unit and Single-Station Punch Machines that Used This "Strippit-Style" of Tooling.
Sadly, Since Then, The Strippit Co. has been Bought, Sold, and Traded like a
Poker-Chip. Under The Current Owner Du-Jour, LVD has Sold-Off "Strippit-Tooling" to Wilson Tool Co.. This Style Tooling is Now Known as "Thin-Turret" Tooling.
Note, There is More on Tooling Sizes & Types Towards the Bottom of THIS Web-Page
under the "Punch Tooling Sizes" and "Punch Tooling" Sections Below.
And there is 5 Tooling Co. Web-Links at Bottom of Web-Page "Strippit vs Amada".
LVD-Strippit has also Abandoned Manufacturing All "SAF" Machines
(Semi-Automated Fabricator) which Strippit called their Single-Station Manual Machines.
I will Divide All S.A.F. Machines that Strippit Made, into 2 Broad Categories.
First Machine Category is Early-Type Punch Machines made from 1925 to 1960. These Machines Had Flywheel in Very Back-Side of Machine and used an Awkward Punch Tool-Holder that Fit-Into Machine's Table Top, and were made in Models 10A, 10AA, 15A, Etc.
Some Models had a Duplicator Option. You would Punch a Master Pattern-Sheet,
put it in the Duplicator-Holder, then Manually move Stylus to each Pattern-Hole.
Duplicator would move your Work-Sheet at the same time under Punch Ram,
and you would Punch Sheet as you moved to each new position.
There are No Parts Available, and Little or No Service Support for these Pre-1960 Machines. If you need a Part, you will need to Make-It in a Machine Shop,
or look for a cheap "Parts" Machine from a Used Machine Dealer, Auctions, or Ebay.
We at Machine Technologies, Do Not-Support these Early Machines in Any-Way,
as We have a Firm Policy of Not Working on Machines that are Older than Our Wives.
Strippit Model 10AA Machine
Strippit Model 15A Machine
Strippit Model 10A Machine
with Duplicator
Second Machine Category is Late-Type Punch Machines made from 1960 to about 2001.
Most of these Machines were Mechanical, using "New-Style Hydra-Mechanical Head" and 2-Flywheels in Front of Machine with 1 on Each Side of the Frame.
There was also 2 Hydraulic Machines Made, the Super 30/40HD and Super 36/75.
All used a New-Style "Swing-Arm" Punch Tool-Holders that Locked under the
Punch-Head, and was Much Easier to use than Old-Style Holder. These Punch Holders came in 4 Sizes, 1 1/4 Inch, 2x2 Inch Notch, and 3 1/2 Inch for 30 Ton Machines.
The 40 & 75 Ton Machines could also use Optional 5 Inch Holders.
Note, Sizes Refers to Largest Punch-Tool The Holder Could Take,
and Is Not the Actual Punch-Assembly Size or Hole-Size in Swing-Arm Holder.
Machines Models Sonic 18/30, Custom 18/30, Custom 30/30, Custom 30/40, Super 30/40 (Mechanical), Super 30/40HD (Hydraulic), and the Most-Popular Super 30/30.
Model Name means the following; "Custom" means the Work-Table is Fixed in it's Position, where "Super" means Work-Table can be Moved Up or Down several Inches in Relation to Punch-Die Top Surface, with a Hand-Crank Wheel on Lower Front of Machine. Moving Table Down gives you Clearance around Die, so you could Punch a Hole in a Metal Box, Angle-Iron, or some other Already Formed Metal Part.
The First Number, as in 18/30, means Throat-Clearance, in this case 18 Inches. Second Number Means Tonnage Machine Supposedly could Punch. These "30 Ton Machines" were Not Really 30 Ton Machines, they would Spray-Out Oil and Break Punch-Head Parts if you used them on Full-Capacity 30 Ton Holes. I Advise Not Using them on over 20 Ton Punch-Holes. Buy a Super 30/40HD (Hydraulic) for High Tonnage Holes!
Super 30/40 Mechanical Machines were made in 1960's & 1970's, and were just a
Super 30/30 with Bigger Flywheels & Motor, and were Definitely Not 40 Ton Machines!
Strippit Model Sonic 15,
Old-Style Machine with New Style Swing-Arm Punch Holder
Strippit Custom 18/30 Machine
Strippit Super 30/30 Machine
with Table-Extension Option
In 1960's & 1970's, Strippit also made the Super 36/75 Machine. These were Very
Heavy-Duty Machines with a 36 Inch Throat and Could Punch 75 Ton Holes! They used
a Hydraulic Piston Driving a Mechanical Knuckle-Mechanism that Drove the Punch-Ram.
Because of Problems trying to Punch Big 30 & 40 Ton Holes with Mechanical 30/30 and 30/40 Machines, Strippit came out with Super 30/40 HD (Hydraulic) Machine in 1977.
These Machines had No-Flywheels, and instead used a 10HP Electric Motor & Pump to Power the Hydraulic-Ram Punch-Head. These Machines would Punch an Honest 40-Ton Hole and Ask for More! These Machines were the Best of All Strippit S.A.F. Machines, and are Highly Recommended, Especially if you want to Punch Big Holes in Thick Material or Stainless Steel.
Note, Some Used Machine Dealers list the Crappy Mechanical Super 30/40 Machines
as the Vastly Superior Super 30/40HD Hydraulic Machines,
because they Do Not Know any Better, or are Dishonest.
Always Check-Out Machines Carefully Before You Buy, Not After!!!
Strippit Super 30/40HD Machine
Painted 1980's Yellow & Racing Stripes
Strippit Super 30/40HD Machine
Painted in The 1970's Puke-Green
Strippit
Super 36/75
This page was last updated: October 16, 2011
Note!!!
I Specialize in Strippit CNC HECC80-Control Turret-Machines,
Not The Single-Station S.A.F. Machines!
Strippit made Thousands and Thousands of these S.A.F. Machines.
Sorry, I Really Do Not have a Lot of Time to Talk to All of You Guys
on Your Particular S.A.F. Machine's Problems!
However, As a Free-Service to You, I will Add to This Web-Page, from Time to Time, More Trouble-Shooting & Repair-Information for these S.A.F. Machines.
Which is a Hell of a Lot More than Strippit Will Do for You!
I Do have a Few Repair & Operation Manuals For-Sale,
as well as Repair Parts that are Listed on This Webpage.
I Suggest you Buy a Manual, if you do not have one,
and Learn to Maintain & Repair Machine Yourself.
I don't think Strippit has any Service Available for S.A.F. Machines Anymore,
but feel free to call and ask them.
Rebuilding these Machines can be a Bit Tricky if You Don't
have the Tools and Prior Experience. If You Need Field-Service
Repairs In Your Shop, Call These Servicemen;
Denis Porter R.I.P 7/9/10. West-Coast Service Area.
He was Best in the World on Repairing and Re-Machining S.A.F. Machines.
Alan Suda 708-826-9845, Chicago & Mid-West Service Area.
Very Good on S.A.F. Machines, and Strippit CNC Turret-Machines.
Bob Kelly 815-355-0531, Chicago-Land Area.
Good on S.A.F. Machines, and Strippit Fanuc-Control Turret-Machines.
More Strippit Servicemen are Listed on My
"Independent Strippit Control & Machine Repair Service" Web-Page, and
All 5 U.S. Punch Tooling Companies are Listed at Bottom of My
"Strippit vs Amada" Web-Page. Go Take A Look!
Use the Hot-Link Buttons Below!
Trouble-Shooting & Repairs
S.A.F. Machines are Quite Reliable.
But as Most Shops Do No Maintenance at All,
and Add-In the Fact that Many Machines are now 20, 30, or even over 40 years old, they certainly can develop issues. Some Common Problems are;
1 --- Swing-Arm Holders.
Often Shops Buy a Used Machine, but Fail to get Both the 1 1/4" and 3 1/2" Holders!
Or while Using Machine, Operators Switch Back & Forth between 2 Holders, and Eventually 1 of them Falls-Off Machine and Hits the Floor. Holder will then Break into 2 Pieces because Strippit's Holders were made of Cast-Iron that Breaks Easily.
You Can't Fix-It, Many have Tried! Buy a New Holder, Our's are Made of Steel!
6 --- Hooks & Handles
Right & Left Hooks and Left & Right Handles Lock-In Swing-Arm Holders to Machine.
These are the Biggest Wear Items on Strippit Single-Station Machines!
They Very Commonly are Worn-Out and Will Not Stay Locked to Keep the Swing-Arm
Tightly Closed & Aligned. This Allows Holders to Move and Wobble, which causes
Punch and Dies to Hit & Wear & Break, and cause Bad Punched-Hole Quality.
If your Knuckle-Head Operators have Bungee-Cords Holding The Handles Closed,
Your Hooks & Handles are Worn-Out! They will Need to be Replaced to Fix Problem.
Replace Hooks & Handles & Lock-Pins! We Stock these Repair Parts.
7 --- Maintenance Manuals.
If you do Not have a Manual for Your Machine, You Need to Get One! And Read It!
We have Manuals Available for Custom 18/30, Super 30/30, and Super 30/40 HD.
5 --- Bushings
Bushings in 1 1/4" and 3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holders Wear-Out, Mainly from Operators Not using Molykote Grease on Tooling! This allows Punch-Tools to Move & Deflect, causing Tool-Wear & Burred Holes. If you can Rock a New Tool Back & Forth Much, your Holder Bushing is Worn and should be Replaced and Aligned. Original S.A.F. Bushings, which were 1/16" Longer than Turret Types, are no longer available.
We now use #100230-000 1 1/4" and #100734-000 3 1/2" Turret Bushings.
8 --- Grease Your Bearings!
Left & Right Crankshaft Bearings, Pitman Bearing, and Ram-Housing all need to be Greased Regularly. Grease these Bearings Every Week or 2, depending on Machine usage. If you don't, the Bearings Gall-Up and Drag on the Crankshaft, which Slows Crank Speed causing Loss of Punch Tonnage. Eventually, the Crank will Grind to a Stop and Motor Overload will Trip-Out. At this point, you have to do a Very Expensive Machine Rebuild. Its Best to Maintain your Machines, and Avoid This!
Strippit Specified Mobil EP1 Grease. But I have Switched to the Newer
Mobil Synthetic (RED) Greases which Protect Better, Perform Better at Both High and Low Temperatures, and Does Not Dry-Out and Turn to Thick-Wax. Mobilith SHC220 orMobilith SHC460 also work well. Put it in a Grease Gun Dedicated to This Machine and Chain Grease-Gun to Machine or Gun will Grow Little-Legs and Walk-Away, and Will Not be Found when you Need It! Grease Machine Regularly & Often!
9 --- Maintain Proper
Hydraulic Oil Level
Inside Punch-Head!
Rotate Right-Flywheel
Until the Scribed "B.D.C. Line"
(Bottom Dead-Center) is Lined-Up
with Bottom of the Electrical Box.
Using #49579-000 Dip-Stick,
Check & Maintain Proper Level of
Mobil DTE-24 Oil
inside the Punch-Head.
Too-Little Oil and you will
Short-Stroke Punch.
Too-Much Oil and it will
Over-Stroke
and Spray-Out Oil while Punching.
Chain the Dip-Stick to Machine,
or it will also
Grow Little-Legs and Walk-Away.
If Your's is already Gone,
We have these Dip-Sticks In-Stock!
4 --- Lock-Pins
Check the 2 -- #62560-000 Lock-Pins,
on Swing-Arms that the Hooks Lock-On to.
They Must be Lubed with a Light Oil and be able to Rotate Freely, or they will Develop a Wear-Spot, cause Alignment Problems, and need to be Replaced.
Note, when Replacing Hooks & Handles,
I usually Replace these Lock-Pins Also.
12 --- Some Common Electrical Problems.
Note, This Section Only Applies to Custom 18/30, Custom 30/30, Super 30/30, Custom 30/40, and Super 30/40 Machines that were the Most Common SAF's made.
It does Not Apply to Hydraulic Machines like Super 30/40 HD and Super 36/75.
Trouble-Shooters also need to Understand that SAF's were made for over 40 Years,
and there are Many Variations in Electrical Wiring, Electrical Components, and Mechanical Components used. You will need to Understand how it Works to Fix it.
You will Need a Maintenance Manual, Which has the Electrical Schematic in it,
to do any Trouble-Shooting. Manual also has More Trouble-Shooting Charts & Theory.
As a Rule, an Electrical Device Fails in 1 of 2 Ways;
--- It "Shorts" or "Short-Circuit" meaning Very-Low or No-Resistance.
--- It "Opens" or "Open-Circuit" meaning Very-High or Infinite-Resistance.
12A --- Fuse Blows when you Try to Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
Caused by Shorted Punch Solenoid Coil, Normal Coil Resistance is about 15 ohms.
12B --- No Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
Caused by Open Punch Solenoid Coil, Normal Coil Resistance is about 15 Ohms.
12C --- Machine will Punch with Tool Handle Open and Not Locked-In.
Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch being Shorted.
12D --- No Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch being Open.
12E --- Punches OK in Nibble, but Blows Fuse 4FU and won't Punch in Single Mode.
Caused by Control Relay CR1 Coil Short, Normal Resistance is about 250 Ohms.
12F --- Punches OK in Nibble, No Punch in Single.
Caused by Control Relay CR1 Coil Open.
12G --- Varying Short to Normal Stroke in Single, Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS1 Short.
12H --- No Punch in Single, Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS1 Open.
12I --- Starts Nibbling when you Punch in Single Mode, must Turn-Off Machine to Stop.
Caused by Limit Switch LS2 Short.
12J --- No Punch or Very Short Stroke in Single, Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS2 Open.
12K --- Fuse 4FU Blows as Punch Ram starts to move down in Single or Nibble.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Coil Short, Normal Resistance is about 2000 Ohms.
12L --- Machine continues to Punch in Single as long as Foot Petal is Depressed.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Open, Normal Resistance is about 2000 Ohms.
12M --- No Punch in Single, but Nibble Punches Without Depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Limit Switch LS3 Short. Note, Early Machines do Not have this LS3 Switch which was Added to Eliminate Possibility of Double Punching in Singe-Punch Mode.
12N --- Constant Nibble Punching in Single Mode, Normal Operation in Nibble Mode.
Caused by Limit Switch LS3 Open.
12O --- 1 Punch at Power-On. Punching in Nibble without depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Shorted Footswitch.
12P --- Will not Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
Caused by Open Footswitch.
12Q --- 3-Phase Fuses Blow. Caused by;
-- Bad (Shorted) Flywheel Press-Drive Motor
-- Stalled Motor from Old Hardened Grease
-- Stalled Motor from Bad Crankshaft Bearings
-- Wrong A.C. Voltage
-- Shorted / Melted Step-Down Transformer. Caused by Wrong A.C. Voltage to Machine or Big-Loads Plugged-In to 110 VAC Machine Power Socket, like a Cooling Fan. This External Power-Socket was made Only for a 60 Watt Work-Light!
I sometimes Disconnect this Socket to Prevent this Common Problem.
Punch Tooling
I get many Calls on Where to Buy New Punch Tooling & Dies.
Sadly, and Quite Stupidly, LVD Strippit Sold-Off All Their Tooling Lines, and
No Longer Makes "Strippit Tooling" that the Strippit Company was Named for!
This Type of Tooling is now Known as "Thin Turret Tooling".
All of these Strippit SAF-Machines Use Only "Thin Turret Tooling".
Some Single-Station Machines that had a CNC-Control Factory-Installed,
like the "AG's" (Auto-Gageing) and "Super 750's", were Optioned & Sometimes Manufactured to take the "Thick-Turret / Long / Amada" Type of Tooling.
But, Strictly Speaking, these are Not SAF-Machines. They are CNC Punch Machines.
I have 5 Hot-Links to the 5 Manufactures of Thin-Turret Tooling in the U.S.
at Bottom of my Web-Page
So, Please Go To That Page For These 5 Tooling Company Links!!!
The 2ND Generation is the "AG's". Made in Late 1980's & Early 1990's, Strippit Simply took their Custom 18/30 & Custom 30/30 SAF Machines, and Bolted-On a Cheap Japanese 2-Axis CNC Gageing Control, to make a
Auto-Gageing (AG) Machine.
At Left, is A Late 1980 Vintage
Super 30/30AG Machine
with the "Long Tooling" Option.
Earlix Control Company is Now Out of
Business, there are No Control Parts Available, and Little or No Strippit Support! Avoid these "AG" Machines!
CNC Side-Gage & Auto-Gage Machines
Strictly Speaking, These are Not SAF Machines.
They are Auto-Gageing (AG) and NC & CNC Single-Station Punch Machines.
So Far, Strippit has had 4 Generations of these Types of Machines.
The 1St Generation was the FM36/75 (Fabra-Matic) Machines.
Strippit made Both Manual Super36/75 SAF Machines as well as Automatic
NC Control Fabra-Matic Machines in the 1960's & 1970's with a Hughes 200 or General Electric NC Control.
NC Controls had No Memory, and simply read Information from Papertape, moved X & Y Axis with the Part-Sheet, and Punched when in Position. A Program Stop was made when Operator was Required to Manually Change the Tool. No Parts or Service is Available for these Machines.
The 3ND Generation is the "Super750"
Made in Late 1990's & Early 2000's,
Strippit Finally designed a Decent Auto-Gageing Single-Station Machine,
But then Ruined It by putting another Version of Strippit's Crappy PC-Control on it!
PC-Controls are Not a Bad Thing, its just that LVD-Strippit has a
Reputation for Not Supporting Their PC Controls after just a Few Short Years!
In this Case, the "Control" Requires an Old PC-Computer that Runs on DOS
(Remember DOS, Pre-Windows, from the Early 1980's!)
so when you have Problems, and you try to replace the Control Computer,
you will find that Newer Computers and Windows Do Not Work on it!
I am getting a Lot of calls on Super750's with these Computer Problems.
Again, The Machine is Good, but I would Avoid them because of
Strippit's Crappy PC-Control and Strippit's Even More Crappy Support for it.
Ask the People who Own a Strippit FC1000R with a Apple-MAC or Windows PC-Control!
Note, Mr. Keith Coffee is Pretty-Good at Fixing these PC-Controls,
He is listed on my "Independent Strippit Service" Web-Page. Go There!
The 4ND Generation is the "Alpha's"
These were a Updated & Redesigned Super750, and were reported to be Good Machines that Worked Well.
These Machines used yet another Version of Strippit's PC-Control,
Which is Machine's Main Problem Area.
Production was Brief, Starting about 2005, and Ended about 2007. Avoid for Above PC-Control Support Reasons.
3 --- 3 1/2" to 1 1/4"
Die Adaptor
These S.A.F. Machines all come Standard with a Die Pedestal that Accepts a Standard 3 1/2" Die.
To use 1 1/4" Tooling, you will Need Both the 1 1/4" Swing-Arm AND
the 3 1/2" to 1 1/4" Die Adaptor.
These also seem to get Lost when Used Machines are Bought & Sold.
A New Adaptor will cost about $400.
Please Read This!!!
Punch Tooling Sizes!
As there are Thousands & Thousands of these S.A.F. Machines Out-There,
many New People & Small-Shops are Picking-Up these Machines
at a Local Friends Shop or at Auctions, and they have
No Idea What the Tooling Sizes Mean, and are Thoroughly Confused.
For Instance, They Measure The "Hole" in their 1 1/4" Holder, and see that it is
1 1/2", and They Think they need 1 1/2" Tooling, which Does Not Exist!
For Standard "Strippit-Style" "Thin-Turret" Tooling, there has Only Been 4 Sizes,
1 1/4", 3 1/2", 5", and 2"x2" Notch Tooling.
For Example, 1 1/4" Tooling Means a Type of Small-Tooling that can Hold a Punch
from 0 to 1 1/4" in Size. Obviously, the Punch-Holder that Holds this Tooling
Must be Larger than the Biggest Punch Tool Size.
All 1 1/4" Type Punch-Holders are 1 1/2" in Diameter.
By a Wild Coincidence, This is Same Size of the "Hole" in a 1 1/4" S.A.F.
Swing-Arm Holder or a CNC-Turret 1 1/4" Station, that the 1 1/4" Tooling Fits into!
So, To Recap;
---- 1 1/4" Type-Tooling takes 0" to 1 1/4" Punch Sizes,
and fits into a Holder of 1 1/2" in Diameter.
---- Notch-Tooling takes Special 0" to 2" Punch Sizes, but is Almost Always a
2"x2" Square, and fits into a Special Notch-Holder that is 3 1/2" in Diameter.
---- 3 1/2" Type-Tooling takes 0" to 3 1/2" Punch Sizes,
and fits into a Holder of 4 3/8" in Diameter.
---- 5" Type-Tooling takes 0" to 5" Punch Sizes, and fits into a
Holder of 5 7/8" in Diameter.
Note, I believe that 5" Thin-Turret Tooling is No Longer Manufactured anywhere.
Here is a Photo of a Rare
"2x2 Notch" Swing-Arm Holder.
So Named because they almost always have a 2"x2" Square-Punch in it for Corner-Notching and Blanking-Out Large Holes.
This is same Notch Punch Tool
used in "Notch Station #1"
in Older Strippit Turret-Machines.
I don't believe Strippit makes
these "Notch" Tools or
Notch Swing-Arm Holders anymore.
These was also a Very Large
5 Inch Swing-Arm Holder
available for the 40 Ton S.A.F. Machines.
These Holders & Stripping-Guides were Very Heavy and Hard to Handle.
5" Swing-Arms, 5" Punch-Holders, and
5" Tooling are No Longer Manufactured.
10 --- #49011-200 Solenoid
I get a Lot of Calls for Burned-Out Solenoids. Coils Burn-Out when some Other Component like a Failed-Switch, allows A.C. Power to be on Continuously to Solenoid. Find the Other Failure Also!
A Good Coil is About 15 Ohms,
Bad Coil is "Shorted" (Much Less Ohms)
or "Open" (Zillions of Ohms).
A Real Pain to Replace as you have to Drop Ram-Housing and Rebuild Punch-Head.
Make Sure Solenoid Plunger is Aligned with Slot in Solenoid or you will Smash-It when you try to Jack the Head Back-Up in place.
11 -- #119951-000 Punch-Head Rebuild Kit. If you Drop Down the Ram-Housing,
you Should Always "Rebuild the Punch-Head" with New Packing-Rings and
Ram-Springs. We Have These Rebuild Kits For-Sale! Kit Consists of;
1 -- #10461-000 Steel Drain-Ball
1 -- #10925-000 Set-Screw, Steel Ball-Retainer
2 -- #11153-000 Retainer-Ring Set-Screws without Ny-Loc, Or
#10871-000 Retainer-Ring Set-Screws with Ny-Loc Thread-Lock
2 -- #11143-000 Nylon-Ball, used under Retainer-Ring Set-Screws
2 -- #10859-000 Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw with Ny-Loc, for Ram-Plate
4 -- #11489-000 Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw, for Cover-Plate,
Note, Some Manuals List Incorrect #11499-000 for this Part
1 -- #12593-000 O-Ring
1 -- #16144-000 O-Ring
1 -- #14360-000 O-Ring
1 -- #10651-000 O-Ring
1 -- #49509-000 Set of 4 Packing-Rings
4 -- #49516-000 Ram Springs
Punch-Head Rebuild Kits
We now have Rebuild Kits
Read-To-Ship!
with All Parts Needed to Rebuild your Strippit Super 30/30, Custom 30/30, Custom 18/30, Custom 30/40, Super 30/30-AG,
and Super 30/40-Mechanical Punch-Heads.
Note, Use a Little
Locktite-242 Thread-Locker
on Screws to keep them Tight!
14 --- #62081-000 Finger Stop Assembly, for Side-Gaging.
Make sure you get these when Buying your Used Machine.\
We Have a Limited Supply of Finger-Stops
Available if You Didn't get any with your Machine.
The Following is a Few Tips on Rebuilding the Punch-Head.
Make Sure You Have A Manual Before You Start Rebuilding!
Pull the 2 Taper-Dowel Pins.
Now you know Why I Have a
Dowel Pin Web-Page,
Click-On The Link Below!
Block-Up the Head so it won't Fall.
You will Need a Good Allen-Socket Set.
A Pipe makes a Good Torque-Amplifier
to Loosen & Tighten Bolts.
I just Put-In New Hooks & Handles in this Machine, as Old Handles would Not
Lock-In and Swing-Arm could be Rocked Back & Forth, so it Ate-Tooling.
There is a Small 1/8" Roll-Pin that Engages Slot in Bottom of each Hook. This makes Hooks-Open all the way when you pull Handles-Open, so you can Remove Swing-Arm.
Unfortunately, they are Always Broken as they are Too Small to Withstand
Ham-Fisted Operators who Jerk
Handles Open & Close. Put in New Pins.
Packing-Ring Retaining-Ring Usually has
2 Indentations on Bottom for a Special Spanner-Wrench that I have Never Seen. So you Tighten Ring as much as you can by Hand, then Tap-It Tighter with a Small Pin-Punch and Small Hammer.
Try Hard Not to Bugger-Up the
Ring & Piston & Set-Screw Threads!
--- Make Sure Solenoid and Solenoid-Plunger are Aligned,
or you could Break Solenoid if you Force it up Housing!
--- New Packing-Rings sometimes make it Difficult to Get Ram-Piston back into Housing. A Second Set of Hands can Help a Lot.
--- Carefully Pry-Up and
Block-Up Ram-Housing
into Position.
--- Thread a Bolt into both Dowel Pins, and Tap Dowels into their Holes. Do both Sides several times to Locate the Housing Well. Remove 2 Bolts.
--- Put in the 4 Bolts, and Tighten them Back & Forth several times.
13 --- Clean & Lube All Your Tooling
Regularly! Especially CNC Machines!
Inside The-Tools,
to Prevent Galling and Cold-Welding between Punch-Tool & Stripping-Guide.
Outside The-Tools, to Prevent Wear on Stripping-Guide and Holder-Bushing.
And, Butter-Up your Hooks & Handles to help keep them from Wearing-Out!
This is the Best Lube I have used.
Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease. The Synthetic Base has High Film Strength, does Not Dry-Out & Harden like Regular Grease, and has Extreme Pressure Additives Molybdenum Disulfide and Graphite.
A 12 oz. Tub is Part #SL3303, about
$14 at NAPA Car Part Stores in U.S.
This Customer Moved & Wired-Up His Super 30/30 All By Themselves.
But, they Put the Wrong Voltage on it,
and Melted their Transformer.
Strippit Made these Machines for Over 40 Years, and Used Various Part-Venders.
It is Difficult to get an Exact Transformer
to Match Bolt Holes and Limited Space Inside the Electrical Cabinet.
We Bought an Enclosed .25KVA Transformer,
and just Mounted it on Back of the Control Cabinet. Quick & Easy to Do.
Remember, if Changing Machine Voltages;
--- Pull-Motor Out & Redo Voltage Tap-Wires
--- Retap Transformer Wires
--- Resize & Change Fuses
--- Resize & Change Overload-Heaters
--- Tag-Machine with New Voltage Information
Mag Switch Retrofit
One of the Many Variations on these Machines was in LS1 & LS2 Switches activated by the 2 Flywheels. In the 1960's, 1970's, and 1980's several different Brands of Mechanical Switches were used, generally Allen Bradley, MicroSwitch, and
General Electric. We Sell Replacement MicroSwitch Types as they Work the Best!
These Switches made a Constant "Clacking" Sound as they were Hit by Cams on Flywheels when ever Machine was On. Because Switches are Constantly being Hit Hard by Flywheel Cams about Twice a Second (60,000 Time a 8-Hour Shift!) when ever Machine is On, Even When Not Punching, Switch life could be Short.
Turn Off Machine if Not Using it!
In the Early 1980's, Switches were converted to a kind of Non-Contact Proximity Switch that was activated by Magnets Mounted on 2 Flywheels. From this Time on, Machines now left the Strippit Factory with these Switches as Standard.
There was also a Retrofit Kit #105090-000 to Convert Older Machines to this new type
of Switches, and many Machines have had this Kit Installed in the Field.
As Machine would no longer make the "Clacking" Sound, an Indicator Light was added to Upper Panel as part of the Kit to Alert Shop People that Machine was "On".
#19274-000 Normally-Open Switch, LS1 is on the Left Side.
#19275-000 Normally-Closed Switch, LS2 is on the Right Side.
#105092-000 Magnet. 2 are used, 1 Magnet is Mounted on each Flywheel.
Photo of Magnetic Switches is shown above. We Stock these Switches & Magnets!
Note! Rarely, On some Old & Very Worn Machines, we have had Problems where even Brand New Hooks & Handles would Not Lock-In Swing-Arm Holder Properly. For these Worn Problem-Machines, we used to Custom-Make Special Hooks-Sets that were .005" or even .010" Shorter than Stock-Hooks, so that they would Pull-In Lock-Pins and Swing-Arm Holder and Lock-It In Tight. However, Short-Hooks are No Longer Available.
After Over a Half-Century of Production,
It Now Appears LVD Strippit, In Their Infinite Wisdom,
No Longer Makes Any Single-Station Machines At All!
We Have
Brand-New
1 1/4 Inch
Swing-Arm Holders
For-Sale!
These are
Made of
Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!
To use Standard 1 1/4" Type Tooling,
you will Need a 1 1/4" Swing-Arm Holder as Shown Above.
AND You will Need a
3 1/2" to 1 1/4" Die Adaptor, as is Shown in Section 2 Below.
We Have
Brand-New
3 1/2 Inch
Swing-Arm Holders
For-Sale!
These are
Made of
Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!
OK, Newbies, Now Listen Up!
To use Standard
Strippit "Thin-Turret"
3 1/2" Type Tooling,
You will first Buy a Tool-Set,
like At Right,
Consisting of a
Punch, Die,
and Stripper-Plate.
You will then Install
Punch and Stripper-Plate
Into a
3 1/2" Stripping-Guide
Punch-Holder Assembly
like Shown At Right.
We have Good-Used and
Brand-New
3 1/2" Stripping-Guide Assemblies For-Sale.
You will then Drop-In the
3 1/2" Stripping-Guide
Assembly that is already
Loaded with Your Tooling
into
3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder
and put it into your Machine,
and Lock-It In Tight with
Hooks & Handles.
2 --- 5" to 3 1/2" Die Adaptor
The 40 Ton Super 30/40 S.A.F. Machines all came Standard with a
Die Pedestal that Accepts a Standard 5" Type Die.
To use 3 1/2" Dies, you Drop-In this #98770-000 5" to 3 1/2" Die Adaptor.
To use 1 1/4" Dies, you Drop-In the 3 1/2" to 1 1/4" Die Adaptor
into the 5" to 3 1/2" Adaptor.
Try to Teach your Knuckle-Head Operators to Not Cross Punch & Dies, as it will Break Adaptors, some of which are Not Manufactured anymore.
The Following are Good Used Repair Parts that we have Gathered.
These are 1 of a Kind Parts, so if you need them, Buy Them Now,
as when they are Gone, we are Not likely to Ever have them again!
360 Degree Index Ring.
Strippit's Price is Over $450.00!
We have a Couple of
Good Used Rings for Much Less.
Barrel Micrometer
Gaging Stop Assembly.
No Knuckle-Head Protection.
Dial Indicator
Gaging Stop Assembly
Die Kicker Pin. Used to Lift-Up Dies for Removal. Very Expensive and
Hard-To-Get, Try Not to Break Your's!
Slide-Stop
Barrel Micrometer Gaging Assembly.
Assembly has Protective Cage Around Micrometer so Knuckle-Heads can't Smash it with their Sheetmetal Parts.
We Sell This Replacement Relay & Socket as the Original CR1 Relay is
No Longer Available. We Replace it with Newer Plug-In Relay with Red-LED Indicator Light to show when it's Actuated. Note, Strippit Single-Station Machines were Wired Many Different Ways over 40+ Years of Production.
Relay will need to be Installed by Someone who Understands Electricity,
as there Probably Will be Wiring Variations to Figure-Out at Installation.
Denis Porter in "California Shaker"
His Boat did 137 MPH in Less Than 8 Seconds in the 1/4 Mile Drag-Race.
He also Raced Flat-Track Harley's in Younger-Days, and Flew Ultra-Lite Aircraft.
Denis Got His Last Wish 7/9/10 at Speed in This Boat on Lake San Antonio, CA.
Rest In Peace Denis
Remove Ram from
Housing Assembly to replace
the 4 Ram-Springs.
Don't be like The Meat-Heads
that tried to Beat-Out Ram
out of this Housing
with a Sledge Hammer!
I had to have their Ram and Housing Re-Machined
for about $1000 after their Attempts at "Repairs".
If you take out the
Top Spiral Retaining-Ring First,
You can then Easily
Just Push-Out the Ram by Hand!
Look at Diagrams
in Your Manual
Before you try to take it Apart!
No Manual? Buy 1 Today!!!
--- Make sure Safety Interlock LS4 Switch Wires are
Not Pinched in Back of Housing when you Bolt-It back to Machine Frame.
--- This Switch Assembly is Made-Up of several Parts that are Expensive & Difficult to get so try not to Damage them.
--- Run a File Over Back of Housing & Machine Frame
Mounting to Eliminate All Burrs
that Will Ruin Tool Alignment!
A Little Trick from my
Old Strippit Days.
When Trouble Shooting Electrical Problems, Take-Out 6 Control Panel Screws,
Move the Panel Up,
and Re-Attach it to Top of Electrical Box with 2 of the Mounting Screws.
Now you can Run Machine & Troubleshoot Electrical Problems while having Access to Switch Terminal-Strip.
Hint. Don't Leave Machine-On for Hours & Hours when Not
Using it, as Ram is Always Going Up & Down, About 60,000 Times a 8-Hour Shift,
Wearing-Out Switches, Ram Springs, & Packing-Rings!
1 1/4 Inch
Swing-Arm
Tool Holder
in Good Used
Condition
for Less Than
Half-Price of a
New Holder.
Note! We have Stopped Production of Many of these Repair Parts! If you Need Repair Parts, I Suggest you Order them Soon!!!
Two 3 1/2 Inch Swing-Arm Tool Holders in Very Good Used Condition
for Less Than Half-Price of a New Holder.
If You needed more Precise Side-Gaging than Finger-Stop Assemblies could provide when using S.A.F. Machines In The Olden-Days before CNC, Strippit made various Micrometer Side-Stops that could be very accurately adjusted.
