Strippit  Super 30/30, Custom 18/30,  and Other
Strippit  Single-Station  Punch Machines
Machine Models,  Some History,  and Some Trouble-Shooting

George Wales Founded the Strippit Company in 1925.  Some of Early Products were
Preloaded-Spring  Self-Stripping  Punch Unit and Single-Station Punch Machines that
used this  Strippit-Style  of Tooling.  Since then,  Strippit Co. has been  Bought,  Sold,  &
Traded like a  Poker-Chip.   Current  Owner  LVD  Stupidly Sold-Off  "Strippit-Tooling"  to
Wilson Tool Co.  This Style Tooling is Now Known as  "Thin-Turret Tooling".
Note,  There is More on  Tooling  Sizes & Types  Towards  Bottom of  THIS  Web-Page
under   "Punch Tooling Sizes"  &  "Punch Tooling"   Sections Below.    Read--It!
And there is  6  Tooling Co.  Web-Links  at  Bottom of  Web-Page   "Strippit vs Amada".

LVD-Strippit  has Stupidly Abandoned Manufacturing  All   "SAF"  Machines
(Semi-Automated Fabricator) which Strippit called their Single-Station Manual Machines.
I will Divide  S.A.F.  Machines that Strippit Made,  into  2  Broad Categories.
First Machine Category  is Early-Type Punch Machines made 1925 to 1960.  These
Machines had Flywheel on Back of Machine,  used Awkward Punch Tool-Holder that Fit
Into Machine's Table Top,  and were made in Models 10A, 10AA, 15A,  Etc.   Some
Models had a Duplicator Option.   You would Punch a Master Pattern-Sheet,  put it in
Duplicator Holder,  then Manually move Stylus to each Pattern-Hole.  Duplicator would
move Work-Sheet at same time under Punch Ram, and you would Punch Sheet as you
moved to each new position.  There are Little or No Parts & Service Support Available
for Pre-1960 Machines.   If you need a Part,  you need to Make-It in a Machine Shop or
look for a cheap  "Parts"  Machine from a  Used Machine Dealer,  Auction, or  Ebay.
We at  Machine Technologies,  Do Not-Support these Early Machines in Any-Way,  as
We have a  Firm Policy of  NOT  Working on Machines that are  Older Than Our  Wives.
Strippit  Model 10AA  Machine
Strippit  Model 15A  Machine
Strippit  Model  10A  Machine
with Duplicator
and Old-Style Punch-Holder
Second Machine Category  is Late-Type Punch Machines made 1960 to early 1990's?

Most Machines were Mechanical,  using  "New-Style Hydra-Mechanical Head"  with 
2-Flywheels in Front of Machine, with 1 on Each Side of Frame.  There was also  2 Hydraulic Machines Made,  Super 30/40HD  and  Super 36/75.  All used New-Style 
"Swing-ArmPunch Tool-Holders  that Locked under Punch-Head,  and was Easier to use than Old-Style Arm-Holder.   Punch Holders came in  4  Sizes,    1 1/4 Inch,   
2x2 Inch Notch,  and  3 1/2 Inch   for 30 Ton Machines.  40 & 75 Ton Machines could also use Optional  5 Inch Holders.   NoteSizes  Refers to   Largest  Punch-Tool-Size Holder Could Take,  and  Is  NOT  Actual Hole-Size in Swing-Arm Holder!!!

Machines Models   Sonic 18/30,  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/30,  Custom 30/40,  Super 30/40 (Mechanical),  Super 30/40HD (Hydraulic),  and the Most-Popular   Super 30/30.
Model Name means following;   "Custom"  means the Work-Table is Fixed in it's Position,  where  "Super"  means Work-Table can be Moved Up or Down several Inches in Relation to Punch-Die Top Surface with a Hand-Crank Wheel on Lower Front of Machine.   Moving Table Down gives you Clearance around Die,  so you could Punch a Hole in a Metal Box,  Angle-Iron,  or some other Already Formed Metal Part.

First Number, as in 18/30,  means Throat-Clearance,  in this case 18 Inches.  Second Number Means Tonnage  Machine Supposedly could Punch.   These  "30 Ton Machines" were Not Really 30 Ton Machines,  they Spray-Out Oil & Break Piston if used on Full-Capacity 30 Ton Holes or 1/4" Thick Materials.   I Advise NOT Using them over 20 Ton punch-holes or thick material.   Buy a Super 30/40HD  Hydraulic for High-Tonnage Holes!
Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines were made in  1960's  &  1970's,  and were just a 
Super 30/30  with Bigger Flywheels & Motor  and were  Definitely NOT 40 Ton Machines!
Strippit Model Sonic 15B,
Old-Style Machine with New Style Swing-Arm Punch-Holder
Strippit  Custom 18/30  Machine
Strippit  Super 30/30  Machine
with Table-Extension Option
Strippit  Super 36/75

In 1960's & 1970's,  Strippit made the
Super 36/75 Machine. 

These were Very Heavy-Duty Machines
with a  36 Inch Throat and
Could Punch  75 Ton Holes!!!

They used a  Hydraulic Piston Driving  a
Mechanical  Knuckle-Mechanism  that
Drove the Punch-Ram.
Because of Problems trying to Punch 30 & 40 Ton Holes with Mechanical 30/30 & 30/40
Machines,  Strippit came out with  Super 30/40 HD  (Hydraulic)  Machine in 1976.  These
Machines had No-Flywheels and used 10HP Electric Motor & Pump to Power Hydraulic
Ram Punch-Head.  Machines could Punch an Honest 40-Ton Hole & were Best of Strippit
S.A.F. Machines.   Recommended to punch big holes in Thick Material or Stainless Steel.

Some Used Machine Dealers list  Mechanical  Super 30/40 Machines as the Superior
Super 30/40HD  Hydraulic  Machines,   because they Do Not Know any Better,   or  are
Dishonest.    Always Check-Out Machines Carefully  BEFORE You Buy,  Not  After!!!
And Make Sure you get Both  1 1/4"  &  3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holders  &   1 1/4" Die-Adaptor!

Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted 1980's Yellow & Racing Stripes
Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted in  The 1970's Puke-Green
This page was last updated: May 24, 2022
I specialize in Strippit HECC80-Control Turret-Machines, Not Single-Station S.A.F.
Machines.   However As a Service to You,  from Time to Time  I Add to This
Web-Page more Trouble-Shooting  &  Repair-Information for  S.A.F. Machines.

I have a Few Repair & Operation Manuals For-Sale,  and  Repair Parts Listed on this Webpage.   Buy a Manual  and  Learn to Maintain & Repair Machine Yourself!
Rebuilding Machines can be Tricky if You Don't have Tools & Prior Experience.
If You Need Field-Service Repairs In Your Shop,  Call These Servicemen;

Tom Penrod, Tracy, CA   Phone 209-814-7626    West-Coast Service Area.

Joe Normoyle,  La Puenta, CA   Phone 626-826-0007    West-Coast Service Area.

Denis Porter   R.I.P  7/9/10.   West-Coast Service Area.
He was  Best In The World  on  Repairing and Re-Machining S.A.F. Machines.

Alan Suda   708-826-9845,   Chicago  &  Mid-West  Service Area.
Very Good on  S.A.F.  Machines,   and  Strippit CNC Turret-Machines.

Bob Kelly   815-355-0531,  Chicago-Land Area.
Good on  S.A.F.  Machines,  and  Strippit  Fanuc-Control  Turret-Machines.

More Servicemen listed  "Independent Strippit Control & Machine Repair Service"
Web-Page,  &  All  6  U.S. Punch-Tooling Companies are Listed at Bottom of My
"Strippit vs Amada"   Web-Page.    Use The  Hot-Link Buttons  Below!

Trouble-Shooting  &  Repairs
S.A.F.  Machines are Quite Reliable.   But as  Most Shops Do NO Maintenance At All,
Machines are now 30, 40, or over 50+ years old,  and  Maintenance  "Rocket-Scientists"
may have Modified Electrical Components,  they certainly can develop issues.
Some Common Problems are Listed lower in This Web-Page.
1 ---  Swing-Arm Holders.

Often Shops Buy a Used Machine,  but  Fail to get Both the  1 1/4"  and  3 1/2"  Holders!
Or while Using Machine,   Operators Switch Back & Forth between 2 Holders,  and  
Eventually 1 of them  Falls-Off  Machine and  Hits-The-Floor.   Holder will then
Break into  2-Pieces  because  Strippit's Holders were  Cast-Iron  that  Breaks Easily!!!  
You Can't Fix-It,  Many have Tried!     Our's were  Made of Cast Steel,   but are  Sold-Out!
6 ---  Hooks  &  Handles

Left & Right  Hooks  and  Left & Right  Handles  Lock-In  Swing-Arm Holders to Machine.
Very Commonly Worn-Out on Single-Station Machines  so  Will  NOT  Stay Locked-In to
Keep Swing-Arm Holder  Tightly-Closed & Aligned.   This Allows Swing-Arm Holder to
Move and Wobble causing  Punch and Dies to Hit & Wear & Break,  with  Bad Punched-Hole Quality.   If your Knuckle-Head Operators have Bungee-Cords Holding Handles-Closed so it Will Punch,  it will  NOT  Hold-Alignment when Punching  and your Hooks & Handles are Worn-Out!   Usually Replacing  Hooks & Cams & Lock-Pins will Fix Problem!
New Handles are Not Available,  but are usually OK.   May Require Black Delron  Round-Cams to be Replacedwhich are in our Kit.   Some Early Machines used Steel-Cams.
  7 --- Maintenance
          Manuals

  If you do Not have a
  Manual for Your Machine
  You  Need  To  Get  One!
  And  Read--It!
We have Manuals
  Available for
  ---  Custom 18/30
  ---  Super 30/30
  ---  Super 30/40 HD

5 ---  Bushings

1 1/4" &  3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder Bushings Wear-Out  from  Operators  NOT  using
Molykote GN Grease   on Tooling!   Wear allows Tools to  Move & Deflect,  causing
Tool-Wear & Burred Holes.   If you can Rock
New Tool  Back & Forth Much,  Bushing is Worn and should be  Replaced  &  Aligned.

#100734-000    3 1/2"  Bushing
#100230-000    1 1/4"  Bushing,  2.375" Flange,
at Right is a   0  &  270 Degree  Bushing.
Strippit  Counts-Degrees  from   "Front" 
0-Degrees,   then  Clockwise. 
Original  #62533-000  Bushings not available.
Some Old  1 1/4" Bushings  measure 
2.437" across  Top-Flange
Current  Bushings  Measure  2.375".  
8 ---  Grease Your Bearings!
Left & Right  Crankshaft Bearings,  Pitman Bearing,  and 
Ram-Housing  Need to be Greased Every Week.   If you don't,
Bearings Gall-Up & Drag on Crankshaft,  Slows Crank Speed causing Loss of Punch Tonnage,  Crank can Grind to a Halt & Motor Overload will Trip-Out.   You now need Very Expensive Machine Rebuild.  Strippit Specified  Mobil EP1  Grease,  BUT 
I use Only  Synthetic Greases  which Protects  & Performs Better at  High & Low Temperatures  & does not dry-out and turn to thick-wax!   I use  Mobil  Synthetic
"RED Greases"   Mobilith SHC220   &   Mobil-1 Grease.   Chain
Grease-gun to Machine  or  it will Grow Legs & Walk-Away!
9 ---  Maintain Proper Oil Level Inside the Punch-Head!  Rotate  Right-Flywheel  Until Scribed  "B.D.C.  Line
(Bottom Dead-Center)  is Lined-Up with the Bottom of Electrical Box.   Use
#49579-000  Dip-Stick   to  Maintain
Proper Level of   Mobil  DTE-24  Oil   or  Mobil-1  0W-20  SAE Motor Oil
Do Not Confuse ISO  &  SAE  Oil Grades!
Grainger Co.  is 1 Source of  DTE-24 Oil.
Use an  Old-Fashion Oil-Can   to add Oil  through  Trap-Door on Top of Piston.
Too-Little Oil   will  Short-Stroke  Punch.
Too-Much  Oil   will  Over-Stroke
and  Spray-Out Oil  while Punching.

Chain Your Dip-Stick to Machine  or it
will  Grow Little-Legs  and  Walk-Away!
If Your's is Already Gone,   We have
  Punch-Head  Dip-Sticks  In-Stock!
4 ---  Lock-Pins
#62560-000  Set of  2 Lock-Pins on  Each Swing-Arm  that Hooks
Lock-on to.   Lube with Light Oil, should be able to Rotate Freely or will Develop a Wear-Spot,  cause Alignment Problems,  and need to be Replaced.   When Replacing Hooks & Handles,  Always Replace
Lock-Pins.  1 Set of Pins comes in  "Hook & Handle Repair Kit"  but as most Machines have  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm   &   3 1/2" Swing-Arm, 
You will Need  Extra  Set  for  your  2nd Swing-Arm.
12 ---  Some Common Electrical Problems.  
Note,  This Section Only Applies to  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/30,  Super 30/30,  
Custom 30/40,  and  Super 30/40  Machines that were the Most Common SAF's made.
It does  Not  Apply to  Hydraulic Machines  like  Super 30/40 HD  and  Super 36/75.

Trouble-Shooters also need to Understand that SAF's were made for over 40 Years,
and  there are Many Variations in  Electrical Wiring,  Electrical Components,  and Mechanical Components  used.    You will need to Understand how it Works to Fix it!!!
You will  NEED  a  Maintenance Manual,   Which has the  Electrical Schematic  in it,
to do any Trouble-Shooting.   Manual  also has  More Trouble-Shooting Charts & Theory.

As a Rule,   an  Electrical Device  Fails in  1  of  2  Ways;
---  It   "Shorts"   or   "Short-Circuit"   meaning   Very-Low   or   No-Resistance.
---  It   "Opens"   or   "Open-Circuit"   meaning   Very-High   or   Infinite-Resistance.

12A ---   Fuse Blows when you Try to Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.   Caused by Shorted Punch Solenoid Coil  or  wiring,  Normal Coil Resistance  is about  15  Ohms.

12B ---  No Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
---  Caused by Open Punch Solenoid Coil,  Normal Coil Resistance is about  15  Ohms.
---  Caused by Broken-Wire "Open" going to the  Punch-Piston  &  Solenoid Coil.
---  Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch  or  Lock-Switch Wiring being Open.
---  Caused by Open Footswitch  or  Wiring to switch.

12C ---  Machine will Punch with Tool Handle Open and Not Locked-In.
Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch being Shorted.

12D ---  Punches OK in Nibble,  but Blows Fuse 4FU and won't Punch in Single Mode.
Caused by Control Relay CR1 Coil Short,  Normal Resistance is about 250 Ohms.

12E ---  Punches  OK in Nibble,    No Punch in Single.     Some  Causes;
      ---  Limit Switch LS1 Open.    LS1  is  Normally-Open   &  Closes when Activated!
      ---  Limit Switch LS2 Open.    LS2  is  Normally-Closed   &  Opens when Activated!
      ---  Control Relay CR1 Coil  Open,   Normal is About a Couple Hundred Ohms.
      ---  LS1  or  LS2   Wired Wrong.    LS1 is  Normally-Open,   LS2 is  Normally-Closed
           on most Later Machines,   but   Normally-Open  on  Very Early 1960's Machines!

12F ---  Varying Short to Normal Stroke in Single,  Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS1 Short.   LS1 is  Normally-Open  &  Closes when Activated!

12G   ---  Starts Nibbling when Punch in Single Mode,  must Turn-Off Machine to Stop.
Caused by Limit Switch LS2 Short.   LS2 is  Normally-Closed  &  Opens when Activated!

12H  ---  Fuse 4FU Blows as Punch Ram starts to move down in Single or Nibble.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Coil Short,   Normal Resistance is About 2000 Ohms.

12i  ---  Machine continues to Punch in Single as long as Foot Petal is Depressed.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Open,   Normal Resistance is About 2000 Ohms.

12J  ---  No Punch in Single,  but  Nibble Punches Without Depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Limit Switch LS3 Short.   NoteEarly Machines do Not have this  LS3 Switch
which was Added to Eliminate Possibility of Double Punching in Singe-Punch Mode.

12K  ---  Constant Nibble Punching in Single Mode,  Normal Operation in Nibble Mode.
Caused by Limit Switch  LS3 Open.

12L  ---  1 Punch at Power-On.   Punching in Nibble without depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Shorted Footswitch.

12M  ---  3-Phase Fuses Blow.    Caused by;
---  Wrong  A.C. voltage to machine or motor & transformer not wired for correct voltage
---  Bad  (Shorted)  Press-Drive Motor        
---  Stalled Motor from Bad Crankshaft Bearings  or  from  Old Hardened Grease
---  Shorted / Melted  Step-Down Transformer.    Caused by  Wrong  A.C. Voltage to Machine  or  Big-Loads Plugged-In  to 110 VAC Machine Power Socket,  like a Cooling Fan.   This External Power-Socket was made Only for a 60 Watt Work-Light!
I sometimes Disconnect this Socket to Prevent this Common Problem.

Note!  Very Early 1960's Machines  WITHOUT  FRONT--LS3  Switch  had  LS2 Switch  on
Right-Flywheel  wired  Normally-Open.    Later Machines had Wiring Changed  with
Front-LS3 Switch  ADDED  and  LS2 Switch on Right-Flywheel wired Normally-CLOSED.
LS1 Switch  on  Left Flywheel  has  Always been wired  Normally-Open.
Punch-Tooling   Punch-Tooling   Punch-Tooling
I get many Calls on Where to Buy  New  Punch Tooling  &  Dies.
Sadly,   and  Quite-Stupidly,   LVD Strippit   Sold-Off  ALL Their  Tooling-Lines,   and
No Longer Makes   "Strippit Tooling"   that  The Strippit Company  was Named for!
This Type of Tooling is NOW Known as   "Thin Turret Tooling".
Most of these Strippit  Single-Station SAF-Machines Use  Only   "Thin Turret Tooling".

A very few Single-Station Machines that had a  CNC-Control Factory-Installed,
like the   "AG's" (Auto-Gageing)   and   "Super 750's",   may have been 
Optioned & Manufactured  to take   "Thick-Turret  /  Long  /  Amada"   Type of Tooling.
I have  6  Hot-Links  to  U.S. Manufactures  of  Punch-Tooling  at  Bottom of Web-Page
"Strippit vs Amada"
So,  Please  Go To That  Web-Page  For These  6  Tooling Company Links!!!
2ND Generation is the "AG's".  Made in Late 1980's & Early 1990's,  Strippit took their Custom 18/30 & Custom 30/30  SAF Machines  and Bolted-On Cheap  Earlix  Japanese  2-Axis CNC Gageing Control,  to make a  Auto-Gageing (AG)  Machine.
At Left,  is 1987 Vintage Super 30/30AG  Machine with  "Long Tooling"  Option.
--  Earlix Control Co. is  Out of Business!
--  NO  Control Parts  are  Available!
--  NO  Strippit  Support  is  Available!
--  NO  Service  is  Available!
--  AVOID  These  "AG"  Machines!!!
--  AVOID  means don't Fucking Buy one!
CNC  Side-Gage  &  Auto-Gage  Machines
Strictly Speaking,  These are Not  SAF Machines.
They are  Auto-Gageing (AG)  and  NC  &  CNC  Single-Station  Punch Machines.
Strippit has had 4 Generations of these Types of Machines,  ALL Should Be AVOIDED!
1St Generation  was  FM36/75 (Fabra-Matic) Machines.  Strippit made Both  Manual
Super 36/75  SAF Machines  as well as Automatic   NC-Control  Fabra-Matic 36/75 Machines  in 1960's & 1970's with a
Hughes 200 or General Electric  NC-Control.

NC Controls  had No Memory,  simply read Information from Papertape,  moved  X & Y Axis with the Part-Sheet,  and  Punched when In-Position.   A Program Stop was made when Operator was Required to Manually Change the Tool.   No Parts  or Service is Available for these Machines.
3ND  Generation  is the   SG750,   FC750SG,   Super750,   Super750SG,   Super750/40,   Super750/40SG,   Which are Pretty-Much All the Same Machine  as
Strippit  Stupidly,  Just Couldn't make up their Mind on What to Call them!

In 1990's,  Strippit Finally designed a Decent Auto-Gageing Single-Station Machine,  But Ruined It by putting another Crappy Strippit  PC-Control on it Made with Consumer Type
PC-Computers which are NOT Designed to last more than 3 to 5 Years.  And LVD-Strippit has a Reputation for NOT Supporting Their Old PC-Controls.   In this Case  "Control"  Requires Old PC-Computer that Runs on  DOS  ( DOS  Pre-Windows from Early 1980's! )
or  Old Windows 95,  so when you have Problems,  you find that Newer Computers and Windows Do NOT Work on it,  so you Can't get Parts to fix it!   I get many calls on Super750's with Computer Problems.   Again,  Machine is Good,  BUT  AVOID  because
there is  NO Service,  NO Parts,  NO Tech Support  for  Strippit's Crappy PC-Controls!
I would Replace Machine with  Fiber-Laser  or  Amada Turret Punch.
The  4ND Generation  is the  "Alpha's"

These were a  Updated  &  Redesigned Super 750,  and were reported to be Good Machines that Worked Well.
Machines used yet Another Version of Strippit's  Crappy  PC-Control,
Which is Machine's Main Problem Area.
Production was Brief,  Starting about 2005 and ended about 2007.  AVOID  for
ABOVE  PC-Control  Support Reasons!
3 ---  3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor
30-TON  Machines  came with  Die-Pedestal that
Accepts a  Standard  3 1/2" Die.  
For   1 1/4"  Tooling  you need  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm
Tool-Holder   AND   3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.

Please Read This!  Punch Tooling Sizes!
As there are Thousands of these  S.A.F.  Machines Out-There,  many  New People  & Small-Shops are Picking-Up these Machines at a Local Friends Shop or at Auctions,
and they have  NO Idea What The Tooling Sizes Meanand are  Thoroughly Confused.

For Instance,  they  Wrongly Measure   "The-Hole"  in their  1 1/4" Holder,  and see
that it is  1 1/2",   and They Think they need  1 1/2" Tooling,   which  Does  NOT  Exist!

For Standard  "Strippit-Style"  "Thin-Turret"  Tooling,   There has  Only  Been  4  Sizes,
1 1/4",     3 1/2",     5",    and    2" x 2" Notch   Tooling.

For Example,  1 1/4"  Tooling  means a type of Small-Tooling that can hold a Punch from 0  to  1 1/4"  in Size.     Obviously,  Punch-Holder  that Holds Tooling  Must be Larger
than Biggest Punch Tool Size.    All  1 1/4"  Type  Punch-Holders are  1 1/2"  in Diameter.
And  By a  Wild-Coincidence,   This is Same Size of the  "Hole"  in a   1 1/4"  S.A.F.
Swing-Arm Holder  or a  CNC-Turret   1 1/4" Station,   that the   1 1/4" Tooling Fits into!
SoTo  Recap;

----    1 1/4"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   1 1/4"   Punch Sizes,
       and fits into a  Holder of   1 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    Notch-Tooling   takes  Special   0"  to   2"   Punch Sizes,   but  is Almost Always a
       2" x 2" Square,  and fits into a  Special  Notch-Holder  that is   3 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    3 1/2"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   3 1/2"   Punch Sizes,
        and fits into a  Holder of   4 3/8"  in Diameter.

----    5"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   5"   Punch Sizes,  and  fits into a
        Holder of   5 7/8"  in Diameter.     Note,  I believe that  5" Thin-Turret Tooling is
        No Longer Manufactured Anywhere,  so  all  5" Holders  &  Tooling is Worthless!
Rare "2 x 2 Notch"  Swing-Arm Holder.  So Named because they almost always have a  2" x 2" Square Punch in it for Corner-Notching  and  Blanking-Out Large Holes.   These  Can-NOT  Hold
a  Standard  3 1/2" Tool!
This uses same  2" x 2" Notch Punch Tool used in  "Notch Station  #1" 
in Older Strippit  Turret-Machines.
There was a Large 5 Inch  Swing-Arm Holder
available for  40 Ton  S.A.F.  Machines.
These Holders & Stripping-Guides were Very Heavy and Hard to Handle.   5" Swing-Arms,  5" Punch-Holders,  and  5" Tooling  are No Longer Manufactured,  so are Now Useless.

10 ---  #49011-200  Solenoid
Solenoids Burn-Out when Failed Switches allow A.C. Power to be on Continuously.   Find Failure or
you will  Burn-Out Solenoid again!   "Nibble-Mode" Punching can also Burn-Out Solenoids.   A  Good
Solenoid Coil  is About  15  Ohms ,  a Bad Coil is
"Shorted"   Zero Ohms   or    "Open"   Zillions of Ohms.   You have to  Drop Ram-Housing and
Rebuild  Punch-Head  to Replace.  
Get  Rebuild Kit  Below!   Align  Solenoid-Plunger
with  Slot in Solenoid  or  you will  Smash-It  when
you  Jack-Up Housing back in place!

When Energized, Solenoid  pulls-in Plunger,  which pulls-up Stop-Bolt,  which Pulls-Up & Closes
Piston-Valve to Trap-Oil on next Piston down-stroke which pushes Ram down to Hit Punch-Tool.

Over past 60 years Strippit used several Plunger &
Stop-Bolt combinations to try to improve punching. There were at  Least  3  Stop-Bolts Types;
#71800-000  Short-Type,  1.900" long
#85541-000  Spring-Loaded  int.-thread  3.125" long
#74579-000  Solid  External-Threads  3.281" long
and  Bolts  Must Use  their Matching-Type Plunger!
We now Stock the
Most Common   &  Best-Type   Matching--SETs  of;
#74579-000   Solid  Stop-Bolt,   The Best-Type  and
#62874-000   Plunger,   for the  Solid Stop-Bolt
11 --  #119951-000  Punch-Head Rebuild Kit.    Whenever you  Drop-Down the
Ram-Housing,  ALWAYS  "Rebuild  Punch-Head"  with  New  Packing-Rings  and
Ram-Springs!   We Have These  Rebuild Kits  For-Sale!    Kit Consists of;
1 --  #10461-000    Steel Drain-Ball
1 --  #10925-000    Set-Screw, Steel Ball-Retainer
2 --  #11153-000    Retainer-Ring Set-Screws without Ny-Loc,  Or
      #10871-000    Retainer-Ring Set-Screws with Ny-Loc Thread-Lock
3 --  #11143-000    Nylon-Ball,  used under Retainer-Ring Set-Screws,  1-Extra
2  -- We Now Replace Plain Set-Screws & Nylon-Balls with  Brass-Tip Set Screws!
2 --  #10859-000    Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw with Ny-Loc, for Ram-Plate
4 --  #11489-000    Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw,  for Cover-Plate,
                            Note,  Some Manuals List  Incorrect  #11499-000  for this Part
1 --  #12593-000    O-Ring
1 --  #16144-000    O-Ring     NOTENot all O-Rings will be used,  as there are
1 --  #14360-000    O-Ring                  several Different Versions of Machines!
1 --  #10651-000    O-Ring
1 --  #49509-000    Set of  4 Packing-Rings
4 --  #49516-000    Ram Springs
1 --  Locktite-243  Thread-Locker  for use on all  Screws  &  Set-Screws
  Punch-Head Rebuild Kits

We have  Punch-Head  Rebuild Kits
with  Parts Needed  to  Rebuild your
Strippit   10AA,  15AA,  Super 30/30,
Custom 30/30,  Sonic 18/30, 
Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/40, 
Super 30/30-AG,  18/30AG 
and   Super 30/40-Mechanical
( NOT  30/40-HD )  Punch-Heads.

Use   Locktite-243  Thread-Locker
Included in Our Kit,
on the Screws to keep them Tight!
14 ---  #62081-000  Finger Stop Assembly  for Side-Gaging.   Make sure you get these when Buying your Machine as they are Out-Of-Production!
If You needed more Precise Side-Gaging than Finger-Stops could provide,
Strippit made Micrometer Side-Stops that could be very accurately adjusted.
Or,  I would have a  DRO  Electronic Scale and Readouts  Fitted to Machine.
The Following is a Few Tips on Rebuilding the Punch-Head.
Make Sure You Have a Manual Before You Start Rebuilding!
  PULL  the  2 Taper-Dowel Pins.
  Now you know Why I Have a
  Dowel Pin Web-Page,
  Click-On  The Link Below!
Block-Up Head so it won't Fall.  You will Need a Allen Hex-Socket Set.  A Pipe makes a Good Torque-Amplifier to Loosen & Tighten Bolts.
I just Put-In  New Hooks & Handles  in this Machine,  as Old Handles would Not
Lock-In,  and  Swing-Arm could be Rocked Back & Forth,  so it  Ate-Up Tooling.

There is a  1/8" Roll-Pin,  that Sticks-up 3/16",   to Engages Slot in Bottom of each Hook,  to make Hooks Open when you pull Handles so you can Remove Swing-Arm.
Unfortunately,  Pins are Always Broken.
Put in New Pins,  which are in our Kit.

Packing-Ring Retaining-Ring Usually has
2 Indentations on Bottom for a Special 2-Pin Spanner Wrench, which you can make.
Or you Tighten Ring as much as you can by Hand,  then Tap-It Tighter with a Small Pin-Punch and Small Hammer, 
which Will Bugger-Up Screw-Holes.....

Try  Hard  NOT  to  Bugger-Up  the
Ring  &  Piston  &  Set-Screw  Threads!!!
---  Make Sure Solenoid  and  Solenoid-Plunger  are  Aligned
or  you could  Break Solenoid  if you Force up Ram-Housing!

---  New Packing-Rings sometimes make it Difficult to Get Ram-Piston back into Housing.   A Second Set of Hands can Help a Lot.

---  Carefully  Pry-Up  and
Block-Up  Ram-Housing
into Position.

---  Thread a Bolt into both Dowel Pins,  and  Carefully Tap Dowels into their Holes. 
Do Not Damage Special Taper Dowel Pins as they are No longer Available!  Do both Sides several times to Locate the Housing Well.   Remove 2 Bolts.

---  Put in the  4  Bolts,  and Tighten them  Back  &  Forth
several times.
13 ---  Clean & Lube Tooling  Regularly! 
Inside Tools to Prevent Galling & Cold-Welding
between  Punch-Tool  &  Stripping Guide
AND  Outside of Tools to Prevent Wear on
Stripping Guide  and  Holder  and  Bushing!
Also,  Grease-Up your  Hooks & Handles  to help keep them from Wearing-Out!
This is 1 of the Best Lubes I have used.
  Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease. Synthetic-Base has High Film-Strength,  does Not Dry-Out and Harden like Regular Grease,
and has  Extreme Pressure Additives
Molybdenum Disulfide   &  Graphite.   A 12 oz. Tub is  Part #SL3303,  about  $20 at  NAPA
and  PEP-Boys  Car Part Stores  in  U.S.
This Customer Moved & Wired-Up His  Super 30/30 All By Themselves.   But,  they Put the Wrong Voltage on it and Melted Transformer.   Strippit Made these Machines for 40+ Years and Used different Transformers.  It is Difficult to get Exact Transformer to Match Bolt Holes and Limited Space Inside Electrical Cabinet.   We Do Stock a
Heavy-Duty  .35KVA  Replacement Transformer.

In Photo we used  Enclosed  .25 KVA Transformer,
(.35  or  .5 KVA  is Better)  and  just Mounted it on Back of Control Cabinet.   Quick & Easy to Do.
Remember,  if  Changing  Machine  Voltages;
---  Pull-Motor Out  &  Redo  Voltage Tap-Wires
---  Retap  Transformer  Wires
---  Resize  &  Change Fuses
---  Resize  &  Change  Motor Overload-Heaters
---  Tag-Machine  with  New Voltage Information!
Mag Switch Retrofit
One of Many Machines Variations was in  LS1 & LS2  Switches activated by 2 Flywheels.  In 1960's, 1970's,  and 1980's  different Brands of Mechanical Switches  were used,  Allen Bradley,  MicroSwitch,  G.E.,  Etc.    We Only Sell  MicroSwitch Types as they Work Best!

Switches made Constant  "Clacking"  Sound as they were Hit by Flywheel Cams when Machine was On.   Because Switches are  Constantly being Hit Hard by Flywheel-Cams about  Twice a Second  (60,000 Time a 8-Hour Shift!)  when Machine is On, 
Even When Not Punching,  Switch life could be Short.   Turn-Off  Machine if Not Using it!

In the Early 1980's,  Switches were converted to a kind of Non-Contact Proximity Switch that was activated by Magnets Mounted on 2 Flywheels.   From this Time on, 
Machines now left the Strippit Factory with these Switches as Standard.

There was also a Retrofit Kit  #105090-000  to Convert Older Machines to this new type
of Switches,  and many Machines have had this Kit Installed in the Field.  
As Machine would No longer make the  "Clacking"  Sound,  an Indicator-Light  was
added to  Upper Panel as part of the Kit to  Alert Shop People that Machine was  "On".
#19274-000     Normally-Open  Switch   (Red-Wires Type),        LS1  is on the  Left Side.
#19275-000     Normally-Closed  Switch   (Blue-Wires Type),    LS2  is on the  Right Side.
#105092-000   Magnet.    2  are used,   1 Magnet is Mounted on each Flywheel.
After Over a Half-Century of Production,  LVD Strippit,
In Their Infinite Wisdom,   No Longer Makes Any Single-Station Machines At All!
Brand-New
1 1/4  Inch Swing-Arm Holders
For-Sale!

These are
Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!
To use Standard  1 1/4"  Type Tooling you will Need a  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm Holder   as Above & you will need a  3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor  as in  Section 2 Below
We Have Brand-New
3 1/2  Inch Swing-Arm Holders  For-Sale!

These are Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!

OK,   Newbies,   Now Listen Up!!!
To use  Standard  Strippit
"Thin-Turret"   3 1/2"  Type Tooling,
You first Buy a  Tool-Set,
like  At Right,  Consisting of a
Punch,   Die,  and  Stripper-Plate.

You then Install
Punch  &  Stripper-Plate  into a
3 1/2"  Stripping-Guide  Punch-Holder
Assembly  as Shown  At Right.

We have a few  Good-Used  3 1/2"
Stripping-Guide Assemblies  For-Sale.

You then Drop-In  3 1/2" Stripping-Guide Assembly,  that is already Loaded with Your Punch,  into  3 1/2"  Swing-Arm Holder  and  Lock-It In Tight with
Hooks & Handles into Machine.   Got It?

2 ---  5" to 3 1/2"  &  1 1/4" Die Adaptors   40-TON  Super & Custom 30/40
Machines  came with  6 1/2"-Wide Die-Pedestal for  5" Dies,    For   3 1/2" Dies, 
use  5" to  3 1/2" Die Adaptor.    For  1 1/4"  Dies,  use  5"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.
Teach Operators to  NOT-Cross  Punch & Dies as it can   Break Die Adaptors!
The Following are Some Good Used Repair Parts that we have Gathered.
These are 1 of a Kind Parts,  so if you need them,  Buy Them Now,
as when they are Gone,   we are  Not likely to Ever have them again!
New  Super 30/30
360-Degree  Die Index-Ring

If your Die Index-Ring is
Broken or Missing  we have a
Small-Stock of  New
Stainless-Steel  Index-Rings.

LAST--CALL  as we have made
our  Last-Batch of these Rings!

Note!
Ring Needs to be  Aligned with
Index-Tool  or  Alignment-Tool
Barrel Micrometer
Gaging Stop Assembly with
No Knuckle-Head  Protection.
Dial Indicator
Gaging Stop Assembly
Die Kicker Pin.   Used to Lift-Up Dies
for Removal.   Expensive  &  Hard-To-Get.
Try Not to Break Your's!
Slide-Stop
Barrel Micrometer Gaging Assembly.
Assembly has Protective Cage Around Micrometer so  Knuckle-Heads  can't
Smash it with their Sheetmetal Parts.
NoteThese 3 Gaging Stops are for Reference Only,  they are NOT Available!
Shown Above,  we Sell New  White CR2  Relay   &  Gray Contactor  to replace  Original
CR1 Relay that is No Longer Available.   Strippit Machines were  Wired  MANY Different Ways over 40+ Years of Production.   So, we Cannot tell you Exactly how-to wire-in Replacement  CR1.   It's Not that hard,  But  Needs to be Installed  by  Someone who Understands  Electricity & Wiring,  as Wiring Variations to be Figured-Out at  Installation!
My Friend  Denis Porter  in  "California Shaker".
His Boat did 137 MPH  in  Less Than  8 Seconds in  The  1/4 Mile Drag-Race.
He also Raced Flat-Track Harley's in Younger-Days  and  Flew Ultra-Lite Aircraft!
Denis Got His Last-Wish  7/9/10 at Speed in This Boat on Lake San Antonio, CA.
Rest  In  Peace  Denis
Remove Ram from Housing assembly to replace 4 Ram Springs.

Don't be like  The Meat-Heads
that tried to  Beat-Ram  out of this Housing with a  Sledge Hammer!
I had to have their Ram and Housing Re-Machined for  $1000+ after their Attempts at  "Repairs".

Take out  Spiral Retaining-Ring  first!
You can then  Push-Out By-Hand  or
Tap-Out with Brass-Hammer   Ram.

Look at  Diagrams in Your Manual
Before  you try to take it Apart!

No Manual?   Buy  1  Today!!!
Rams are often Ruined when bottom Striker-Plate gets Loose,  But your   Knucklehead Operator  Keeps Punching-Anyway,  until
Flat-Head Bolts Break and Bolt Hole Threads are Ripped-out of Ram. 
New threaded-holes can be Drilled & Tapped by a Good Machine Shop.
---  Make Sure Safety Interlock LS4 Switch Wires are
Not Pinched  in Back of Housing when you Bolt-It back to Frame.

---  This Switch Assembly is Made-Up of several Parts that are  Expensive & Difficult  to get so  Do  NOT  Damage Them!

---  Run a File Over Back of Housing  &  Machine Frame
Mounting to Eliminate  All  Burrs
that Cause Tool Miss-Alignment!
A Little Trick from
Dandy-Don Dahlin,  R.I.P.,  from my Old Strippit Service Days.

When Trouble Shooting Electrical Problems,  Take-Out
8  Control Panel Screws,  Move
Panel Up and Re-Attach it to Top of Electrical Box with
2 of the Mounting Screws.

Now you can  Run-Machine  & Troubleshoot Electrical Problems while having Access to Switch Terminal-Strip.

Hint.   Don't Leave Machine-On for Hours & Hours when Not
Using it,  as Ram is Always Going Up & Down,  About
60,000 Times  a  8-Hour Shift,
Wearing-Out  Switches,  Ram Springs,  &  Packing-Rings!!!
Very Hard-To-Find
1 1/4  Inch  Swing-Arm Tool Holder
in Very Good Condition.
Hook & Handle  Repair Kit
Only a  Limited Quantity  of
Hook & Handle Repair Kits Available!

LAST--CALL!
We are  Makeing the  LAST
BATCH  of these  Kits Now!

  Hook & Handle  Repair Kit   has;
---   Left  &  Right  Hooks
---  2  Handle Cams
---  2  Cam  Retaining Screws
---  2  Lock-Pins,  for  1  Swing-Arm
---  4  Hook-Slot  Roll-Pins  (2-Extra)
---  2  Pivot  Roll-Pins

Very Hard-To-Find
3 1/2  Inch  Swing-Arm Tool Holder
in Very Good Condition!

New  Tool Lifter-Kit  for
1 1/4" Swing-Arm Holder

New   3 1/2" Lifter-Kit   for
3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holders

The  Creonics Saga
In 1980's,  a Company called  Creonics Manufactured the  "Panelgage"  which was a Simple  CNC Gageing System  that could be Retrofitted  In-Your-Shop  to Various Machines,  Including  Single-Station Strippit Machines.

On Strippit's,  the Original Strippit Mechanical Gageing System was Removed  (And Then Promptly Lost)  &  Replaced with Programmable
CNC Gageing System.   My Understanding is
when  New  (30+ years ago)  these Systems worked quite well in certain applications.
However,   I would  NOT  Recommend Buying a Machine with a Creonics,  or any Other,  Retrofit;
---  Creonics is  Long Out-of-Business  as they 
   were Bought Out by the   Allen Bradley Co.
   which is now part of Rockwell Automation Co.
---  The Retrofitters that did these are Long Gone.
---  Creonics Parts & Service are Hard to Find.
---  As Machines have been Bastardized,  so
     Strippit will Not work on Machines anymore.
---  Can Not use Manual Gageing Anymore.
---  The Mechanical Parts to Convert Back to
      Mechanical Gageing are NOT available.

Electronic Labs  like;   (Google  "Creonics")
Test Point Inc.      or
New England Computer Controls     or
PLC Talk.Net     or    ACCU Electric Motors Co.
that will Repair Circuit Boards,  &  Allen Bradley
may Offer a Bit of Control Help.     AVOID  as You
are  On-Your-Own  with  Retrofitted Machines!

In the 1960's,  Strippit used 
Old-Style   3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder
in their  S.A.F. Machines.  

Look Closely,  Swing-Arm does  NOT
have a Tool-Lifter!!!  Instead, it used a  Matching  Old-Style  3 1/2" Stripping-Guide with  4 Lifter-Springs Built-In  to  Lift-Up  Stripping-Guide.  

Old-Style  Stripping-Guides are  NO longer available!   You can  NOT  use
New-Style  Stripping-Guide in a
Old-Style Swing-Arm as it does Not have Tool-Lifter!  Old Swing-Arms can
be Machined to add  Lifter-Kit  to use  New-Style Stripping-Guide Assembly.
Install  4  Packing Rings  Correctly !!!
Solid-Side  of  Each Ring  Goes UP!
Open Lip-Side of each Ring goes DOWN!

Make Sure Retaining Ring is Screwed-On
VERY Tight.  Nylon-Balls on Set-Screws or  Brass-Tip Set-Screws  Hold Ring  without Buggering-Up Piston-Threads!  New Kits  use  Copper-Tip  Set-Screws.

And Don't Forget
to Replace the
2 Drive-Belts!

We Stock these
Drive-Belts Sets

If your  Ram Retaining-Ring  is
Missing,  Bent,  or  Broken,
We now Stock the
Special  Spiral Retaining-Ring
located at
Top of the  Ram-Housing.
Proper Switch Actuation is  Critical  on these Punch Machines!   "Off-Brand"  Substitute Switches and Worn-Out Switches & Switch Arms Cause a Variety of Punching Problems.
When in Doubt we  Replace   LS1  (Left)  and  LS2  (Right)  Switches  with 
Part  #49790-040.   With the Correct Switches,  we  Set  Arm-Rollers to
Not-Quite Touch Flywheel  and  Switch would Activate  (Switch)  Half-Way Up Cam.
This  ONLY  Works With  Correct  5-Degree Switches!
Put Drop of Oil on Center of Roller so it Rolls,  and  Not-Drags and Cut Groove in Cams. LS3  Double-Punch Prevent-Switch  (Center)  is Part  #12979-000.   Note!  Early 1960's Machines were Wired Differently, did Not have LS3 Switch,  & LS2 wired Normally-Open!

We Stock
The Correct
LS1,
LS2,
and   LS3
Limit-Switches

We  Stock  LS1  &  LS2  Mag-Switches   &   Switch-Magnets
In the Late 1960's  &  Early 1970's  Some
Single-Station Machines were built with 2
of these Early Magnetic Sensors that Detected Metal.   Sensors did Not work well,  have Not been Manufactured for Decades,  and are Not Available Anywhere.
These  Old  LS1  &  LS2   Sensors were 
1"  x  3 1/2"  Long.

When you have Trouble with these,  you will Need to Install  Mechanical Switches
or  Mag-Switch Retrofit Kit  to Repair.

Last-Call for  Finger-Stops!
We Only have a Few Left!

Left  &  Right  Handles
New Handles are   NOT  Available!

REBUILD  Your  Handles  with
New  Cams  in our
Hook & Handle  Repair Kit  Below!

Left  &  Right  Hooks
Careless Operators  &  Machine-Riggers often Smash Fiberglass Front Cover.   I have 2 Covers Available,
1 in Excellent Condition  & 1 in Fairly Good Condition.
We Do Have a  Very Small Supply  of  Refurbished
1 1/4"   and   31/2"  Swing-Arm Holders,   Shown Below