Strippit  Super 30/30, Custom 18/30,  and Other
Strippit  Single-Station  Punch Machines
Machine Models,  Some History,  and Some Trouble-Shooting

George Wales Founded the Strippit Company in 1925.
Some of their Early Products were the Preloaded-Spring  Self-Stripping  Punch Unit
and  Single-Station Punch Machines that Used This  "Strippit-Style"  of Tooling.  Sadly Since Then,  The Strippit Co.  has been  Bought,  Sold,  and  Traded  like a  Poker-Chip.
Current  Owner Du-JourLVD  Stupidly Sold-Off   "Strippit-Tooling"  to  Wilson Tool Co.
This Style Tooling is Now Known as   "Thin-Turret"   Tooling.
Note,  There is More on  Tooling  Sizes & Types  Towards  Bottom of  THIS  Web-Page
under the   "Punch Tooling Sizes"   and   "Punch Tooling"   Sections Below.    Read-It!
And there is  6  Tooling Co.  Web-Links  at  Bottom of  Web-Page   "Strippit vs Amada".

LVD-Strippit  has Stupidly Abandoned Manufacturing  All   "SAF"  Machines
(Semi-Automated Fabricator) which Strippit called their Single-Station Manual Machines.
I will Divide All  S.A.F.  Machines that Strippit Made,  into  2  Broad Categories.
First Machine Category  is Early-Type Punch Machines made from 1925 to 1960.  These Machines Had Flywheel on Back-Side of Machine,  used an Awkward Punch Tool-Holder that Fit-Into Machine's Table Top,  and were made in Models 10A, 10AA, 15A,  Etc.
Some Models had a Duplicator Option.   You would Punch a Master Pattern-Sheet,
put it in the Duplicator-Holder,  then Manually move Stylus to each Pattern-Hole.
Duplicator would move your Work-Sheet at the same time under Punch Ram,
and you would Punch Sheet as you moved to each new position.
There are Little or No Parts Available,  and Little or No Service Support for these
Pre-1960 Machines.   If you need a Part,  you will need to Make-It in a Machine Shop,
or look for a cheap  "Parts"  Machine from a  Used Machine Dealer,  Auctions, or  Ebay.

We at Machine Technologies,  Do Not-Support these Early Machines in Any-Way,  as
We have a Firm Policy of  NOT Working on Machines that are  Older Than Our  Wives.
Strippit  Model 10AA  Machine
Strippit  Model 15A  Machine
Strippit  Model  10A  Machine
with Duplicator
and Old-Style Punch-Holder
Second Machine Category  is Late-Type Punch Machines made from 1960 to about 2001.

Most Machines were Mechanical,  using  "New-Style Hydra-Mechanical Head"  with 
2-Flywheels in Front of Machine, with 1 on Each Side of Frame.  There was also  2 Hydraulic Machines Made,  Super 30/40HD  and  Super 36/75.  All used New-Style 
"Swing-ArmPunch Tool-Holders  that Locked under Punch-Head,  and was Easier to use than Old-Style Arm-Holder.   Punch Holders came in  4  Sizes,    1 1/4 Inch,   
2x2 Inch Notch,  and  3 1/2 Inch   for 30 Ton Machines.  40 & 75 Ton Machines could also use Optional  5 Inch Holders.   NoteSizes  Refers to   Largest  Punch-Tool-Size Holder Could Take,  and  Is  NOT  Actual Hole-Size in Swing-Arm Holder!!!

Machines Models   Sonic 18/30,  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/30,  Custom 30/40,  Super 30/40 (Mechanical),  Super 30/40HD (Hydraulic),  and the Most-Popular   Super 30/30.
Model Name means following;   "Custom"  means the Work-Table is Fixed in it's Position,  where  "Super"  means Work-Table can be Moved Up or Down several Inches in Relation to Punch-Die Top Surface with a Hand-Crank Wheel on Lower Front of Machine.   Moving Table Down gives you Clearance around Die,  so you could Punch a Hole in a Metal Box,  Angle-Iron,  or some other Already Formed Metal Part.

First Number, as in 18/30,  means Throat-Clearance,  in this case 18 Inches.  Second Number Means Tonnage  Machine Supposedly could Punch.   These  "30 Ton Machines" were Not Really 30 Ton Machines,  they Spray-Out Oil & Break Piston if used on Full-Capacity 30 Ton Holes or 1/4" Thick Materials.   I Advise NOT Using them over 20 Ton punch-holes or thick material.   Buy a Super 30/40HD  Hydraulic for High-Tonnage Holes!
Super 30/40-Mechanical   Machines were made in  1960's  &  1970's,  and were just a 
Super 30/30  with Bigger Flywheels & Motor  and were  Definitely NOT 40 Ton Machines!
Strippit Model Sonic 15B,
Old-Style Machine with New Style Swing-Arm Punch-Holder
Strippit  Custom 18/30  Machine
Strippit  Super 30/30  Machine
with Table-Extension Option
Strippit Super 36/75

In 1960's & 1970's,  Strippit made the
Super 36/75 Machine. 

These were Very Heavy-Duty Machines
with a 36 Inch Throat and
Could Punch  75 Ton Holes!

They used a Hydraulic Piston Driving a
Mechanical Knuckle-Mechanism that
Drove the Punch-Ram.
Because of Problems trying to Punch Big  30 & 40 Ton Holes with Mechanical 30/30 and 30/40 Machines,  Strippit came out with  Super 30/40 HD  (Hydraulic)  Machine in 1976.  
These Machines had  NO-Flywheels,  and instead used a 10HP Electric Motor & Pump to Power Hydraulic-Ram Punch-Head.  Machines would  Punch an Honest 40-Ton Hole and Ask for More,  and were the Best of All Strippit S.A.F. Machines.   Highly Recommended
if you want to Punch  Big Holes  in  Thick Material  or  Stainless Steel.

Some Used Machine Dealers list  Mechanical  Super 30/40 Machines as the Superior
Super 30/40HD  Hydraulic  Machines,   because they Do Not Know any Better,   or  are
Dishonest.    Always Check-Out Machines Carefully  BEFORE You Buy,  Not  After!!!
Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted 1980's Yellow & Racing Stripes
Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted in  The 1970's Puke-Green
This page was last updated: November 17, 2019
I specialize in Strippit HECC80-Control Turret-Machines, Not Single-Station S.A.F.
Machines.   However As a Service to You,  from Time to Time I Add to This
Web-Page more Trouble-Shooting  &  Repair-Information for  S.A.F. Machines.

I have a Few Repair & Operation Manuals For-Sale,  and Repair Parts Listed on this Webpage.   Buy a Manual  and Learn to Maintain & Repair Machine Yourself!
Rebuilding Machines can be Tricky if You Don't have Tools & Prior Experience.
If You Need Field-Service Repairs In Your Shop,  Call These Servicemen;

Tom Penrod, Tracy, CA   Phone 209-814-7626    West-Coast Service Area.

Joe Normoyle,  La Puenta, CA   Phone 626-826-0007    West-Coast Service Area.

Denis Porter   R.I.P  7/9/10.   West-Coast Service Area.
He was  Best In The World  on  Repairing and Re-Machining S.A.F. Machines.

Alan Suda   708-826-9845,   Chicago  &  Mid-West Service Area.
Very Good on  S.A.F.  Machines,   and  Strippit CNC Turret-Machines.

Bob Kelly   815-355-0531,  Chicago-Land Area.
Good on  S.A.F.  Machines,  and  Strippit Fanuc-Control Turret-Machines.

More Servicemen listed  "Independent Strippit Control & Machine Repair Service"
Web-Page, & All 6  U.S. Punch-Tooling Companies are Listed at Bottom of My
"Strippit vs Amada"   Web-Page.    Use The  Hot-Link Buttons  Below!

Trouble-Shooting  &  Repairs
S.A.F.  Machines are Quite Reliable.   But as  Most Shops Do NO Maintenance At All,
Machines are now 30, 40, or over 50+ years old,   and  Maintenance  "Rocket-Scientists"
may have Modified Electrical Components,  they certainly can develop issues.
Some Common Problems are Listed lower in This Web-Page.
1 ---  Swing-Arm Holders.

Often Shops Buy a Used Machine,  but  Fail to get Both the  1 1/4"  and  3 1/2"  Holders!
Or while Using Machine,   Operators Switch Back & Forth between 2 Holders,  and  
Eventually 1 of them  Falls-Off  Machine and  Hits-The-Floor.   Holder will then
Break into  2-Pieces  because  Strippit's Holders were  Cast-Iron that  Breaks Easily.    
You Can't Fix-It,  Many have Tried!     Our's were  Made of Cast Steel,   but are  Sold-Out!
6 ---  Hooks  &  Handles

Right & Left  Hooks  and  Left & Right  Handles  Lock-In Swing-Arm Holders to Machine.
Very Commonly Worn-Out on Single-Station Machines so Will  NOT  Stay Locked-In to
Keep Swing-Arm Holder Tightly-Closed & Aligned.   This Allows Swing-Arm Holder to Move and Wobble causing  Punch and Dies to Hit & Wear & Break,  with Bad Punched-Hole Quality.   If your Knuckle-Head Operators have Bungee-Cords Holding Handles-Closed so it Will Punch,  it will  NOT Hold-Alignment when Punching and your Hooks & Handles are Worn-Out!   Usually Replacing Hooks & Lock-Pins will Fix Problem!
New Handles are Not Available,  but are usually OK.   May Require Black Delron  Round-Cams to be Replaced,  which are in our Kit.   Some Early Machines used Steel-Cams.
  7 --- Maintenance

  If you do Not have a
  Manual for Your Machine
  You  Need  To  Get  One!
  And  Read-It!

We have Manuals
  Available for
Custom 18/30,
Super 30/30,    and
  Super 30/40 HD.

5 ---  Bushings

1 1/4" &  3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder Bushings Wear-Out from  Operators  NOT  using
Molykote GN Grease   on Tooling!   Wear allows Tools to Move & Deflect,  causing
Tool-Wear & Burred Holes.   If you can Rock
a New Tool  Back & Forth Much,  Bushing is Worn and should be Replaced & Aligned.

#100734-000    3 1/2"  Bushing
#100230-000    1 1/4"  Bushing,  2.375" Flange,
at Right is a   0  &  270 Degree  Bushing.
Strippit  Counts-Degrees  from   "Front" 
0-Degrees,   then  Clockwise. 
Original  #62533-000 Bushings not available.   Some Old  1 1/4" Bushings measure 
2.437" across Top-Flange
current Bushing measures  2.375".  
8 ---  Grease Your Bearings!

Left & Right Crankshaft Bearings,  Pitman Bearing,  and Ram-Housing need to be Greased Every Week.   If you don't,  Bearings Gall-Up and Drag on Crankshaft,  Slows Crank Speed causing Loss of Punch Tonnage,  Crank will Grind to a Stop and Motor Overload will Trip-Out.   At this point,  you need a Very Expensive Machine Rebuild.
Strippit Specified  Mobil EP1  Grease.   I use Newer Synthetic Greases which Protect & Perform Better at High & Low Temperatures and does not dry-out and turn to thick-wax. Mobil Synthetic (RED) Greases   Mobilith SHC220  &  Mobilith SHC460  work well.   I Like Valvoline SynPower  as it has  Molybdenum Disulfide   for extreme Pressure and can find in Auto Parts Stores.  Chain grease-gun to Machine or will Grow Legs & Walk-Away!
9 ---  Maintain Proper Oil Level Inside the Punch-Head!   Rotate  Right-Flywheel  Until Scribed  "B.D.C.  Line"  (Bottom Dead-Center)  is Lined-Up with Bottom of Electrical Box
Use  #49579-000  Dip-Stick  to  Maintain
Proper Level of   Mobil  DTE-24  Oil  or Equivalent  5W or  10W SAE  Motor Oil.
Do Not Confuse ISO  &  SAE  Oil Grades!
Grainger Co.  is 1 Source of Oil. 
Use   Old-Fashion Oil-Can   to add Oil  through  Trap-Door on Top of Piston.
Too-Little Oil  will  Short-Stroke Punch.
Too-Much  Oil   will  Over-Stroke
and  Spray-Out Oil  while Punching.

Chain your Dip-Stick to Machine  or it
will  Grow Little-Legs  and  Walk-Away!
If Your's is Already Gone,   We have
  Punch-Head  Dip-Sticks  In-Stock!
4 ---  Lock-Pins
#62560-000  Set of 2 Lock-Pins on Each Swing-Arm that Hooks
Lock-on to.   Lube with Light Oil, should be able to Rotate Freely or will Develop a Wear-Spot,  cause Alignment Problems,  and need to be Replaced.   When Replacing Hooks & Handles,  Always Replace Lock-Pins.  1 Set of Pins comes in  "Hook & Handle Repair Kit"  but as Machines have 1 1/4" Swing-Arm  &  3 1/2" Swing-Arm, 
You will need  Extra Set for 2nd Swing-Arm.
12 ---  Some Common Electrical Problems.  

Note,  This Section Only Applies to  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/30,  Super 30/30,  
Custom 30/40,  and  Super 30/40  Machines that were the Most Common SAF's made.
It does  Not  Apply to  Hydraulic Machines like  Super 30/40 HD  and  Super 36/75.

Trouble-Shooters also need to Understand that SAF's were made for over 40 Years,
and there are Many Variations in Electrical Wiring,  Electrical Components,  and Mechanical Components used.    You will need to Understand how it Works to Fix it!!!

You will Need a  Maintenance Manual,  Which has the  Electrical Schematic  in it,
to do any Trouble-Shooting.   Manual  also has  More Trouble-Shooting Charts & Theory.

As a Rule,   an  Electrical Device  Fails in  1  of  2  Ways;
---  It   "Shorts"   or   "Short-Circuit"   meaning   Very-Low   or   No-Resistance.
---  It   "Opens"   or   "Open-Circuit"   meaning   Very-High   or   Infinite-Resistance.

12A ---   Fuse Blows when you Try to Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.   Caused by Shorted Punch Solenoid Coil  or  wiring,  Normal Coil Resistance is about 15 ohms.

12B ---  No Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
---  Caused by Open Punch Solenoid Coil,  Normal Coil Resistance is about 15 Ohms.
---  Caused by Broken-Wire "Open" going to the Solenoid Coil.
---  Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch  or  Lock-Switch Wiring being Open.
---  Caused by Open Footswitch  or  Wiring to switch.

12C ---  Machine will Punch with Tool Handle Open and Not Locked-In.
Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch being Shorted.

12D ---  Punches OK in Nibble,  but Blows Fuse 4FU and won't Punch in Single Mode.
Caused by Control Relay CR1 Coil Short,  Normal Resistance is about 250 Ohms.

12E ---  Punches  OK in Nibble,    No Punch in Single.     Some  Causes;
      ---  Limit Switch LS1 Open.    LS1  is  Normally-Open   &  Closes when Activated!
      ---  Limit Switch LS2 Open.    LS2  is  Normally-Closed   &  Opens when Activated!
      ---  Control Relay CR1 Coil  Open,   Normal is About a Couple Hundred Ohms.
      ---  LS1  or  LS2   Wired Wrong.    LS1 is  Normally-Open,   LS2 is  Normally-Closed.

12F ---  Varying Short to Normal Stroke in Single,  Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS1 Short.   LS1 is  Normally-Open  &  Closes when Activated!

12G   ---  Starts Nibbling when Punch in Single Mode,  must Turn-Off Machine to Stop.
Caused by Limit Switch LS2 Short.   LS2 is  Normally-Closed  &  Opens when Activated!

12H  ---  Fuse 4FU Blows as Punch Ram starts to move down in Single or Nibble.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Coil Short,   Normal Resistance is About 2000 Ohms.

12i  ---  Machine continues to Punch in Single as long as Foot Petal is Depressed.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Open,   Normal Resistance is About 2000 Ohms.

12J  ---  No Punch in Single,  but  Nibble Punches Without Depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Limit Switch LS3 Short.   NoteEarly Machines do Not have this  LS3 Switch
which was Added to Eliminate Possibility of Double Punching in Singe-Punch Mode.

12K  ---  Constant Nibble Punching in Single Mode,  Normal Operation in Nibble Mode.
Caused by Limit Switch  LS3 Open.

12L  ---  1 Punch at Power-On.   Punching in Nibble without depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Shorted Footswitch.

12M  ---  3-Phase Fuses Blow.    Caused by;
---  Wrong  A.C. voltage to machine or motor & transformer not wired for correct voltage
---  Bad  (Shorted)  Press-Drive Motor        
---  Stalled Motor from Bad Crankshaft Bearings  or  from Old Hardened Grease
---  Shorted / Melted  Step-Down Transformer.    Caused by Wrong  A.C. Voltage to Machine  or  Big-Loads Plugged-In to 110 VAC Machine Power Socket,  like a Cooling Fan.   This External Power-Socket was made Only for a 60 Watt Work-Light!
I sometimes Disconnect this Socket to Prevent this Common Problem.
Punch-Tooling   Punch-Tooling   Punch-Tooling
I get many Calls on Where to Buy New Punch Tooling & Dies.
Sadly,   and  Quite-Stupidly,   LVD Strippit   Sold-Off  All Their  Tooling-Lines,   and
No Longer Makes   "Strippit Tooling"   that  The Strippit Company  was Named for!
This Type of Tooling is NOW Known as   "Thin Turret Tooling".
Most of these Strippit  Single-Station SAF-Machines Use Only   "Thin Turret Tooling".

A few Single-Station Machines that had a CNC-Control Factory-Installed,
like the   "AG's" (Auto-Gageing)   and   "Super 750's",   were  Optioned & Manufactured
to take   "Thick-Turret  /  Long  /  Amada"   Type of Tooling.
I have  6 Hot-Links  to  U.S. Manufactures of  Punch-Tooling  at  Bottom of Web-Page
"Strippit vs Amada"
So,  Please  Go To That  Web-Page  For These  6  Tooling Company Links!!!
2ND Generation is the "AG's".  Made in Late 1980's & Early 1990's,  Strippit took their Custom 18/30 & Custom 30/30 SAF Machines and Bolted-On Cheap Earlix  Japanese 2-Axis CNC Gageing Control,  to make a Auto-Gageing (AG)  Machine.
At Left,  is 1987 Vintage Super 30/30AG  Machine with  "Long Tooling"  Option.
--  Earlix Control Co. is  Out of Business!
--  NO  Control Parts  are Available!
--  NO  Strippit  Support!
--  NO  Service  Available!
--  AVOID  These  "AG"  Machines!!!
--  AVOID  means don't Fucking Buy one!
CNC Side-Gage  &  Auto-Gage Machines
Strictly Speaking,  These are Not SAF Machines.
They are  Auto-Gageing (AG)  and  NC & CNC  Single-Station  Punch Machines.
Strippit has had 4 Generations of these Types of Machines,  All Should Be AVOIDED!
1St Generation  was FM36/75 (Fabra-Matic) Machines.  Strippit made Both Manual
Super36/75 SAF Machines as well as Automatic   NC-Control Fabra-Matic 36/75 Machines in 1960's & 1970's with a Hughes 200 or General Electric NC-Control.

NC Controls had No Memory, simply read Information from Papertape, moved X & Y Axis with the Part-Sheet, and Punched when in Position.   A Program Stop was made when Operator was Required to Manually Change the Tool.   No Parts or Service is Available for these Machines.
The  3ND Generation  is the  "Super750"

In Late 1990's,  Strippit Finally designed a Decent Auto-Gageing Single-Station Machine,  But Ruined It by putting another Strippit Crappy PC-Control on it!   PC-Controls are Not a
Bad Thing,  But  LVD-Strippit has a Reputation for Not Supporting Their PC-Controls after a Few Short Years!   In this Case "Control"  Requires Old PC-Computer that Runs on DOS   (  DOS    Pre-Windows from Early 1980's! )  so when you have Problems,  you find that Newer Computers and Windows Do Not Work on it,  so you can't get Parts to fix it!
I get many calls on Super750's with Computer Problems.   Again,  Machine is Good,
but I would  AVOID  because of Strippit's Crappy PC-Control & Strippit's Crappy Support.
Ask the People who Own a Strippit FC1000R with a Apple-MAC or Windows PC-Control!
Note,   Mr. Keith Coffee is Pretty-Good at Fixing these PC-Controls, 
He is listed on my       "Independent Strippit Service"       Web-Page,  Go There!
The  4ND Generation  is the  "Alpha's"

These were a Updated & Redesigned Super750,  and were reported to be Good Machines that Worked Well.
Machines used yet another Version of Strippit's Crappy PC-Control,
Which is Machine's Main Problem Area.
Production was Brief,  Starting about 2005 and ended about 2007.   Avoid  for
Above  PC-Control Support Reasons.
3 ---  3 1/2" to 1 1/4"  Die Adaptor
30-Ton Machines  come with Die-Pedestal that
Accept a Standard  3 1/2" Die.  
For   1 1/4" Tooling you need  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm
Tool-Holder   And   3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.

Please  Read  This!!!  Punch Tooling Sizes!
As there are Thousands of these  S.A.F.  Machines Out-There,  many New People & Small-Shops are Picking-Up these Machines at a Local Friends Shop or at Auctions,
and they have  NO Idea What The Tooling Sizes Meanand are  Thoroughly Confused.

For Instance,  they  Wrongly Measure   "The-Hole"  in their  1 1/4" Holder,  and see
that it is  1 1/2",   and They Think they need  1 1/2" Tooling,   which  Does  NOT  Exist!

For Standard  "Strippit-Style"  "Thin-Turret"  Tooling,   There has  Only  Been  4  Sizes,
1 1/4",     3 1/2",     5",    and    2" x 2" Notch   Tooling.

For Example,  1 1/4"  Tooling  means a type of Small-Tooling that can hold a Punch from 0  to  1 1/4"  in Size.     Obviously,  Punch-Holder  that Holds Tooling  Must be Larger
than Biggest Punch Tool Size.    All  1 1/4"  Type  Punch-Holders are  1 1/2"  in Diameter.
By a  Wild-Coincidence,   This is Same Size of the  "Hole"  in a   1 1/4"  S.A.F.
Swing-Arm Holder  or a  CNC-Turret   1 1/4" Station,   that the   1 1/4" Tooling Fits into!
SoTo Recap;

----    1 1/4"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   1 1/4"   Punch Sizes,
       and fits into a  Holder of   1 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    Notch-Tooling   takes  Special   0"  to   2"   Punch Sizes,   but is Almost Always a
       2" x 2" Square,  and fits into a  Special  Notch-Holder  that is   3 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    3 1/2"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   3 1/2"   Punch Sizes,
        and fits into a  Holder of   4 3/8"  in Diameter.

----    5"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to   5"   Punch Sizes,  and fits into a
        Holder of   5 7/8"  in Diameter.     Note,  I believe that  5" Thin-Turret Tooling is
        No Longer Manufactured Anywhere,  so all  5" Holders & Tooling is Worthless!
Rare "2 x 2 Notch"  Swing-Arm Holder.  So Named because they almost always have a  2" x 2" Square Punch in it for Corner-Notching and Blanking-Out Large Holes.   These Can-NOT Hold a Standard  3 1/2" Tool!
This uses same  2" x 2" Notch Punch Tool used in  "Notch Station #1"  in Older Strippit  Turret-Machines.
There was Large  5 Inch  Swing-Arm Holder
available for  40 Ton  S.A.F.  Machines.
These Holders & Stripping-Guides were Very Heavy and Hard to Handle.   5" Swing-Arms,  5" Punch-Holders,  and  5" Tooling are No Longer Manufactured,  so are Now Useless.

10 ---  #49011-200  Solenoid

Solenoids Burn-Out when Failed Switches allow A.C. Power to be on Continuously.   Find Failure or
you will  Burn-Out Solenoid again!   "Nibble-Mode" Punching can also Burn-Out Solenoids.   A  Good Solenoid Coil is About  15   Ohms  ,  a Bad Coil is
"Shorted"   Zero Ohms  or   "Open"   Zillions of Ohms.   You have to Drop Ram-Housing and
Rebuild Punch-Head to Replace.  
Get  Rebuild Kit Below!   Align  Solenoid-Plunger
with Slot in Solenoid  or you will Smash-It  when
you Jack-Up Housing back in place!

When Energized, Solenoid  pulls-in Plunger,  which pulls-up Stop-Bolt,  which Pulls-Up & Closes
Piston-Valve to Trap-Oil on next Piston down-stroke which pushes Ram down to Punch-Tool.

Over past 50 years Strippit used several Plunger &
Stop-Bolt combinations to try to improve punching. There were at  least  3  Stop-Bolts Types;
#71800-000  Short-Type,  1.900" long
#85541-000  Spring-Loaded  int.-thread  3.125" long
#74579-000  Solid  External-Threads  3.281" long
and  Bolts Must use their Matching-Type Plunger!
We now Stock the
Most Common   &  Best-Type   Matching-Sets  of;
#74579-000   Solid  Stop-Bolt,   The Best-Type!!!
#62874-000   Plunger,   for the  Solid Stop-Bolt
11 --  #119951-000  Punch-Head Rebuild Kit.    Whenever you Drop-Down
Ram-Housing,  Always  "Rebuild Punch-Head"  with  New  Packing-Rings  and
Ram-Springs.   We Have These Rebuild Kits  For-Sale!    Kit Consists of;
1 --  #10461-000    Steel Drain-Ball
1 --  #10925-000    Set-Screw, Steel Ball-Retainer
2 --  #11153-000    Retainer-Ring Set-Screws without Ny-Loc,  Or
      #10871-000    Retainer-Ring Set-Screws with Ny-Loc Thread-Lock
3 --  #11143-000    Nylon-Ball,  used under Retainer-Ring Set-Screws,  1-Extra
2 --  #10859-000    Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw with Ny-Loc, for Ram-Plate
4 --  #11489-000    Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw,  for Cover-Plate,
                            Note,  Some Manuals List  Incorrect  #11499-000  for this Part
1 --  #12593-000    O-Ring
1 --  #16144-000    O-Ring
1 --  #14360-000    O-Ring
1 --  #10651-000    O-Ring
1 --  #49509-000    Set of 4 Packing-Rings
4 --  #49516-000    Ram Springs
1 --  Locktite-243  Thread-Locker  for  Screws  &  Set-Screws
Punch-Head Rebuild Kits

We have  Punch-Head  Rebuild Kits
Read-To-Ship,   with  All Parts
Needed to  Rebuild  your Strippit
Super 30/30,  Custom 30/30, 
Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/40, 
Super 30/30-AG,  18/30AG,  and
Super 30/40-Mechanical
( NOT  30/40-HD )  Punch-Heads.

Use  Locktite-243  Thread-Locker
Included in Our Kit,
on Screws to keep them Tight!
14 ---  #62081-000  Finger Stop Assembly for Side-Gaging.   Make sure you get these when Buying your Machine as they are Out-Of-Production!
If You needed more Precise Side-Gaging than Finger-Stops could provide,
Strippit made Micrometer Side-Stops that could be very accurately adjusted.
Or I would have a  DRO  Electronic Scale and Readouts  Fitted to Machine.
The Following is a Few Tips on Rebuilding the Punch-Head.
Make Sure You Have A Manual Before You Start Rebuilding!
  PULL the  2 Taper-Dowel Pins.
  Now you know Why I Have a
  Dowel Pin Web-Page,
  Click-On  The Link Below!
Block-Up Head so it won't Fall.  You will Need a Allen Hex-Socket Set.  A Pipe makes a Good Torque-Amplifier to Loosen & Tighten Bolts.
I just Put-In  New Hooks & Handles  in this Machine,  as Old Handles would Not
Lock-In and Swing-Arm could be Rocked Back & Forth,  so it  Ate-Up Tooling.

There is a  1/8" Roll-Pin,  that Sticks-up 3/16",   to Engages Slot in Bottom of each Hook,  to make Hooks Open when you pull Handles so you can Remove Swing-Arm.
Unfortunately,  Pins are Always Broken.
Put in New Pins.

Packing-Ring Retaining-Ring Usually has
2 Indentations on Bottom for a Special Spanner-Wrench that I have Never Seen.   So you Tighten Ring as much as you can by Hand,  then Tap-It Tighter with a Small Pin-Punch and Small Hammer.

Try  Hard  NOT  to  Bugger-Up  the
Ring  &  Piston  &  Set-Screw  Threads!!!
---  Make Sure Solenoid and  Solenoid-Plunger are Aligned, 
or you could Break Solenoid if you Force it up Housing!

---  New Packing-Rings sometimes make it Difficult to Get Ram-Piston back into Housing.   A Second Set of Hands can Help a Lot.

---  Carefully Pry-Up and
Block-Up Ram-Housing
into Position.

---  Thread a Bolt into both Dowel Pins,  and Tap Dowels into their Holes.   Do both Sides several times to Locate the Housing Well.   Remove 2 Bolts.

---  Put in the 4 Bolts,  and Tighten them Back & Forth several times.
13 ---  Clean & Lube Tooling  Regularly!  Inside
Tools to Prevent Galling  &  Cold-Welding
between Punch-Tool  &  Stripping Guide.   Outside of Tools to Prevent Wear on Stripping
Guide and  Holder  and Bushing.
Also,  Grease-Up your Hooks & Handles to help keep them from Wearing-Out!
This is 1 of the Best Lubes I have used.
  Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease. Synthetic-Base has High Film-Strength, does Not Dry-Out and Harden like Regular Grease,
and has Extreme Pressure Additives
Molybdenum Disulfide   &  Graphite.   A 12 oz. Tub is  Part #SL3303,  about  $20 at  NAPA and  PEP-Boys  Car Part Stores in U.S.
This Customer Moved & Wired-Up His Super 30/30 All By Themselves.   But,  they Put the Wrong Voltage on it and Melted Transformer.
Strippit Made these Machines for Over 40 Years and Used Various Part-Venders.  It is Difficult to
get an Exact Transformer to Match Bolt Holes and Limited Space Inside the Electrical Cabinet.

We Bought an  Enclosed   .25 KVA Transformer,
(.35  or  .5 KVA  is Better)  and just Mounted it on Back of Control Cabinet.   Quick & Easy to Do.
Remember,  if  Changing Machine Voltages;
---  Pull-Motor Out  &  Redo Voltage Tap-Wires
---  Retap Transformer Wires
---  Resize & Change Fuses
---  Resize & Change Overload-Heaters
---  Tag-Machine with New Voltage Information!
Mag Switch Retrofit
One of Many Machines Variations was in  LS1 & LS2  Switches activated by 2 Flywheels.  In 1960's, 1970's,  and 1980's  different Brands of Mechanical Switches  were used,  Allen Bradley,  MicroSwitch,  G.E.,  Etc.    We Only Sell MicroSwitch Types as they Work Best!

Switches made Constant  "Clacking"  Sound as they were Hit by Flywheel Cams when Machine was On.   Because Switches are Constantly being Hit Hard by Flywheel-Cams about Twice a Second  (60,000 Time a 8-Hour Shift!)  when Machine is On, 
Even When Not Punching,  Switch life could be Short.    Turn-Off Machine if Not Using it!

In the Early 1980's,  Switches were converted to a kind of Non-Contact Proximity Switch that was activated by Magnets Mounted on 2 Flywheels.   From this Time on,  Machines now left the Strippit Factory with these Switches as Standard.

There was also a Retrofit Kit  #105090-000  to Convert Older Machines to this new type
of Switches,  and many Machines have had this Kit Installed in the Field.  
As Machine would No longer make the  "Clacking"  Sound,  an Indicator-Light was added to Upper Panel as part of the Kit to Alert Shop People that Machine was  "On".
#19274-000     Normally-Open  Switch   (Red-Wires),        LS1  is on the  Left Side.
#19275-000     Normally-Closed  Switch   (Blue-Wires),    LS2  is on the  Right Side.
#105092-000   Magnet.    2 are used,   1 Magnet is Mounted on each Flywheel.
After Over a Half-Century of Production,  It Now Appears  LVD Strippit,
In Their Infinite Wisdom,   No Longer Makes Any Single-Station Machines At All!
1 1/4  Inch Swing-Arm Holders

These are
Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!
To use Standard  1 1/4"  Type Tooling you will Need a  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm Holder   as Above & you will need a  3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor  as in  Section 2 Below
We Have Brand-New
3 1/2  Inch Swing-Arm Holders  For-Sale!

These are Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!

OK,   Newbies,   Now Listen Up!!!
To use Standard Strippit
"Thin-Turret"   3 1/2"  Type Tooling,
You first Buy a  Tool-Set,
like  At Right,  Consisting of a
Punch,   Die,  and  Stripper-Plate.

You then Install
Punch  &  Stripper-Plate  into a
3 1/2"  Stripping-Guide Punch-Holder
Assembly  as Shown  At Right.

We have a few Good-Used  3 1/2" 
Stripping-Guide Assemblies  For-Sale.

You then Drop-In 3 1/2" Stripping-Guide Assembly,  that is already Loaded with Your Tooling,  into  3 1/2"  Swing-Arm Holder and Lock-It In Tight with Hooks & Handles into your Machine.   Got It?

2 ---  5" to 3 1/2"  &  1 1/4" Die Adaptors   40-Ton  Super & Custom 30/40
Machines  came with  6 1/2"-Wide Die-Pedestal for  5" Dies,   For  3 1/2" Dies, 
use  5" to  3 1/2" Die Adaptor.    For  1 1/4"  Dies,  use  5" to 1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.
Teach Operators to  NOT-Cross Punch & Dies as it can  Break Die Adaptors!
The Following are Good Used Repair Parts that we have Gathered.
These are 1 of a Kind Parts,  so if you need them,  Buy Them Now,
as when they are Gone,  we are Not likely to Ever have them again!
New  Super 30/30
360-Degree  Die Index-Ring

If your Die Index-Ring is
Broken or Missing we have a
Small-Stock of New
Stainless-Steel  Index-Rings.

LAST--CALL  as we have made
our  Last-Batch of these Rings!

Ring Needs to be Aligned with Index-Tool  or  Alignment-Tool
Barrel Micrometer
Gaging Stop Assembly with
No Knuckle-Head Protection.
Dial Indicator
Gaging Stop Assembly
Die Kicker Pin.   Used to Lift-Up Dies
for Removal.   Expensive  &  Hard-To-Get.
Try Not to Break Your's!
Barrel Micrometer Gaging Assembly.
Assembly has Protective Cage Around Micrometer so Knuckle-Heads can't
Smash it with their Sheetmetal Parts.
NoteThese 3 Gaging Stops are for Reference Only,  they are NOT Available!
We Sell This Replacement Relay & Socket  as the  Original CR1 Relay is No Longer Available.   We Replace it with Newer Plug-In Relay with Red-LED Indicator-Light to show when it's Actuated.   Note,  Strippit Single-Station Machines were  Wired Many Different
Ways over  40+ Years of Production.   Relay will need to be Installed by Someone who Understands Electricity,  as there  Will be Wiring Variations to Figure-Out at Installation!
My Friend  Denis Porter  in  "California Shaker".
His Boat did 137 MPH  in Less Than  8 Seconds in  The 1/4 Mile Drag-Race.
He also Raced Flat-Track Harley's in Younger-Days,  and Flew Ultra-Lite Aircraft!
Denis Got His Last-Wish  7/9/10 at Speed in This Boat on Lake San Antonio, CA.
Rest In Peace Denis.
Remove Ram from Housing assembly to replace 4 Ram Springs.

Don't be like  The Meat-Heads
that tried to  Beat-Ram out of this Housing with a  Sledge Hammer!
I had to have their Ram and Housing Re-Machined for  $1000+ after their Attempts at  "Repairs".

Take out Spiral Retaining-Ring first!
You can then Easily 
Push-Out  the  Ram by Hand!

Look at  Diagrams in Your Manual
Before you try to take it Apart!

No Manual?   Buy 1 Today!!!
Rams are often Ruined when bottom Striker-Plate gets Loose, but your   Knucklehead Operator keeps Punching-Anyway,  until
Flat-Head Bolts Break and Bolt Hole Threads are ripped-out of Ram. 
New threaded-holes can be drilled & tapped by Good Machine Shop.
---  Make sure Safety Interlock LS4 Switch Wires are
Not Pinched  in Back of Housing when you Bolt-It back to Frame.

---  This Switch Assembly is Made-Up of several Parts that are  Expensive & Difficult to get so  Try  NOT  to Damage them!

---  Run a File Over Back of Housing & Machine Frame
Mounting to Eliminate  All Burrs
that Cause Tool Miss-Alignment!
A Little Trick from
Dandy-Don Dahlin,  R.I.P.,
from my Old Strippit Days.

When Trouble Shooting Electrical Problems,  Take-Out
6 Control Panel Screws,  Move the Panel Up and Re-Attach it to Top of Electrical Box with 2 of the Mounting Screws.

Now you can Run Machine & Troubleshoot Electrical Problems while having Access to Switch Terminal-Strip.

Hint.   Don't Leave Machine-On for Hours & Hours when Not
Using it,  as Ram is Always Going Up & Down,  About
60,000 Times  a  8-Hour Shift,
Wearing-Out  Switches,  Ram Springs,  &  Packing-Rings!
Very Hard-To-Find
1 1/4  Inch  Swing-Arm Tool Holder
in Very Good Condition.
Hook & Handle  Repair Kit
Only a  Limited Quantity  of
Hook & Handle Repair Kits Available!

We are  Makeing the  LAST
BATCH  of these  Kits Now!

  Hook & Handle  Repair Kit   has;
---   Left  &  Right  Hooks
---  2  Handle Cams
---  2  Cam  Retaining Screws
---  2  Lock-Pins,  for  1  Swing-Arm
---  3  Hook-Slot  Roll-Pins  (1-Extra)
---  2  Pivot  Roll-Pins

Very Hard-To-Find
3 1/2  Inch  Swing-Arm Tool Holder
in Very Good Condition!

New  Tool Lifter-Kit  for
1 1/4" Swing-Arm Holder

New   3 1/2" Lifter-Kit  for
3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder

The Creonics Saga
In 1980's,  a Company called  Creonics Manufactured the  "Panelgage"  which was a Simple  CNC Gageing System that could be Retrofitted  In-Your-Shop  to Various Machines,  Including  Single-Station Strippit Machines.

On Strippit's,  the Original Strippit Mechanical Gageing System was Removed  (And Then Promptly Lost)  & Replaced with Programmable
CNC Gageing System.   My Understanding is
when New  (30+ years ago)  these Systems worked quite well in certain applications.
However,   I would  NOT  Recommend Buying a Machine with a Creonics,  or any Other,  Retrofit;
---  Creonics is Long Out-of-Business as they 
   were Bought Out by the   Allen Bradley Co.
   which is now part of Rockwell Automation Co.
---  The Retrofitters that did these are Long Gone.
---  Creonics Parts & Service are Hard to Find.
---  As Machines have been Bastardized,  so
     Strippit will Not work on Machines anymore.
---  Can Not use Manual Gageing Anymore.
---  The Mechanical Parts to Convert Back to
      Mechanical Gageing are NOT available.

Electronic Labs like;         (Google  "Creonics")
Test Point Inc.      or
New England Computer Controls     or
PLC Talk.Net     or    ACCU Electric Motors Co.
that will Repair Circuit Boards,  &  Allen Bradley
may Offer a Bit of Control Help.     AVOID  as You
are  On-Your-Own  with  Retrofitted Machines!

In the 1960's,  Strippit used 
Old-Style   3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder
in their  S.A.F. Machines.  

Look Closely,  Swing-Arm does  NOT
have a Tool-Lifter.  Instead, it used a  Matching  Old-Style  3 1/2" Stripping-Guide with  4 Lifter-Springs Built-In  to  Lift-Up  Stripping-Guide.  

Old-Style  Stripping-Guides are  NO longer available!   You can  NOT  use
New-style  Stripping-Guide in a
Old-Style Swing-Arm as it does Not have Tool-Lifter!  Old Swing-Arms can
be Machined to add  Lifter-Kit  to use  New-Style Stripping-Guide Assembly.
Install  4 Packing Rings Correctly!!!
Solid-Side  of  Each Ring goes UP!
Open Lip-Side of each Ring goes DOWN!

Make Sure
Retaining Ring is Screwed-On Very Tight
and use 2 Nylon-Balls  and  2 Set-Screws to Hold Ring in Place without
Buggering-Up the Threads on Piston!

And Don't Foget
to Replace the
2 Drive-Belts!

We Stock these

If your's is
Missing,  Bent,  or  Broken,
We now Stock the
Special  Spiral Retaining-Ring
located at
Top of the  Ram-Housing.
Proper Switch Actuation is  Critical  on these Punch Machines!   "Off-Brand"  Substitute Switches and Worn-Out Switches Cause a Variety of Punching Problems.    When in Doubt we  Replace   LS1 (Left)  and  LS2  (Right)  Switches with  Part  #49790-040.   With Correct Switches,  we Set  Arm-Rollers to  Not-Quite Touch Flywheel  and  Switch would Activate  (Switch)  Half-Way Up Cam.  This ONLY Works With Correct 5-Degree Switches!
Put Drop of Oil on Center of Roller so it Rolls,  and  Not-Drag and Cut Groove in Cams.   LS3  Double-Punch Prevent-Switch  (Center)  is Part  #12979-000.
Early 1960's Machines were Wired Differently and did Not have this LS3 Switch.

We Stock
The Correct
and   LS3

We  Stock  LS1  &  LS2  Mag-Switches  &  Switch-Magnets
In the Late 1960's  &  Early 1970's  Some
Single-Station Machines were built with 2 of these Early Magnetic Sensors that Detected Metal.   Sensors did Not work well,  have Not been Manufactured for Decades,  and are Not Available Anywhere.
LS1  &  LS2   Sensors were 
1"  x  3 1/2"  Long.

When you have Trouble with these, 
you will Need to Install the
Mag-Switch Retrofit Kit  to Repair.

Last-Call for  Finger-Stops!
We Only have a Few Left!

Left  &  Right  Handles
New Handles are   NOT  Available!

REBUILD  Your  Handles  with
New  Cams in our
Hook & Handle  Repair Kit  Below!

Left  &  Right  Hooks
Careless Operators  &  Machine-Riggers often Smash Fiberglass Front Cover.   I have 2 Covers Available,
1 in Excellent Condition  & 1 in Fairly Good Condition.
We Do Have a  Very Small Supply  of  Refurbished
1 1/4"   and   31/2"  Swing-Arm Holders,   Shown Below