Strippit  Super 30/30, Custom 18/30, and Other
Strippit  Single-Station  Punch Machines
Machine Models, Some History, and Some Trouble-Shooting

George Wales Founded the Strippit Company in 1925.
Some of their Early Products were the Preloaded-Spring  Self-Stripping  Punch Unit and Single-Station Punch Machines that Used This  "Strippit-Style"  of Tooling.

Sadly,  Since Then,  The Strippit Co. has been  Bought,  Sold,  and  Traded  like a
Poker-Chip.    Under The Current Owner Du-Jour,  LVD has Sold-Off   "Strippit-Tooling"  to  Wilson Tool Co..    This Style Tooling is Now Known as   "Thin-Turret"   Tooling.

Note,  There is More on  Tooling Sizes & Types  Towards the Bottom of  THIS  Web-Page
under the   "Punch Tooling Sizes"   and   "Punch Tooling"   Sections Below.
And there is  6 Tooling Co.  Web-Links  at  Bottom of  Web-Page   "Strippit vs Amada".

LVD-Strippit has also Abandoned Manufacturing  All   "SAF"  Machines
(Semi-Automated Fabricator) which Strippit called their Single-Station Manual Machines.
I will Divide All  S.A.F. Machines that Strippit Made,  into  2  Broad Categories.
First Machine Category  is Early-Type Punch Machines made from 1925 to 1960.  These Machines Had Flywheel on Back-Side of Machine,  used an Awkward Punch Tool-Holder that Fit-Into Machine's Table Top,  and were made in Models 10A, 10AA, 15A,  Etc.

Some Models had a Duplicator Option.   You would Punch a Master Pattern-Sheet,
put it in the Duplicator-Holder,  then Manually move Stylus to each Pattern-Hole.
Duplicator would move your Work-Sheet at the same time under Punch Ram,
and you would Punch Sheet as you moved to each new position.

There are No Parts Available,  and Little or No Service Support for these Pre-1960 Machines.   If you need a Part,  you will need to Make-It in a Machine Shop,
or look for a cheap  "Parts"  Machine from a  Used Machine Dealer,  Auctions, or  Ebay.

We at Machine Technologies,  Do Not-Support these Early Machines in Any-Way,
as We have a  Firm Policy of Not Working on Machines that are Older than Our Wives.
Strippit  Model 10AA  Machine
Strippit  Model 15A  Machine
Strippit  Model  10A  Machine
with Duplicator
Second Machine Category  is Late-Type Punch Machines made from 1960 to about 2001.

Most of these Machines were Mechanical,  using  "New-Style Hydra-Mechanical Head"  and  2-Flywheels in Front of Machine with 1 on Each Side of the Frame

There was also  2 Hydraulic Machines Made,  the  Super 30/40HD  and  Super 36/75.

All used a  New-Style  "Swing-ArmPunch Tool-Holders  that Locked under the
Punch-Head,  and was Much Easier to use than Old-Style Holder.   These Punch Holders came in  4 Sizes,   1 1/4 Inch,   2x2 Inch Notch,  and  3 1/2 Inch  for 30 Ton Machines.
The 40 & 75 Ton Machines could also use Optional  5 Inch Holders.  
Note,  Sizes  Refers to   Largest  Punch-Tool  The Holder Could Take,
and   Is  Not  The Actual Punch-Assembly Size or  Hole-Size in Swing-Arm Holder.

Machines Models   Sonic 18/30,  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/30,  Custom 30/40,  Super 30/40 (Mechanical),  Super 30/40HD (Hydraulic),  and the Most-Popular   Super 30/30.

Model Name means the following;   "Custom"  means the Work-Table is Fixed in it's Position,  where  "Super"  means Work-Table can be Moved Up or Down several Inches in Relation to Punch-Die Top Surface,  with a Hand-Crank Wheel on Lower Front of Machine.   Moving Table Down gives you Clearance around Die,  so you could Punch a Hole in a Metal Box,  Angle-Iron,  or some other Already Formed Metal Part.

The First Number,  as in 18/30,  means Throat-Clearance,  in this case 18 Inches.  Second Number Means Tonnage Machine Supposedly could Punch.   These  "30 Ton Machines" were  Not Really 30 Ton Machines,  they would Spray-Out Oil and Break Punch-Head Parts if you used them on Full-Capacity 30 Ton Holes.   I Advise Not Using them on over 20 Ton Punch-Holes.   Buy a  Super 30/40HD  (Hydraulic)  for High Tonnage Holes!

Super 30/40 Mechanical  Machines were made in 1960's & 1970's,  and were just a 
Super 30/30  with Bigger Flywheels & Motor,  and were  Definitely Not 40 Ton Machines!
Strippit Model Sonic 15,
Old-Style Machine with New Style Swing-Arm Punch Holder
Strippit  Custom 18/30  Machine
Strippit  Super 30/30  Machine
with Table-Extension Option
Strippit Super 36/75

In 1960's & 1970's,  Strippit made the
Super 36/75 Machine. 

These were Very Heavy-Duty Machines
with a 36 Inch Throat and
Could Punch  75 Ton Holes!

They used a Hydraulic Piston Driving a
Mechanical Knuckle-Mechanism that
Drove the Punch-Ram.
Because of Problems trying to Punch Big  30 & 40 Ton Holes with Mechanical 30/30 and 30/40 Machines,  Strippit came out with  Super 30/40 HD  (Hydraulic) Machine in 1977.  

These Machines had No-Flywheels,  and instead used a 10HP Electric Motor & Pump to Power Hydraulic-Ram Punch-Head.  Machines would Punch an Honest 40-Ton Hole and Ask for More,  and were the Best of All Strippit S.A.F. Machines.   Highly RecommendedEspecially if you want to Punch Big Holes in Thick Material or Stainless Steel.

Some Used Machine Dealers list the  Mechanical  Super 30/40 Machines as the Superior  Super 30/40HD  Hydraulic  Machines,   because they Do Not Know any Better, 
or are Dishonest.    Always Check-Out Machines Carefully BEFORE You Buy,  Not After!!!
Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted 1980's Yellow & Racing Stripes
Strippit  Super 30/40HD  Machine
Painted in The 1970's Puke-Green
This page was last updated: February 2, 2014
I Specialize in Strippit CNC HECC80-Control Turret-Machines,  Not Single-Station S.A.F. Machines.  Strippit made Thousands of S.A.F. Machines.   Sorry,  I Do Not have Time to Talk to All of You Guys on Your Particular S.A.F. Machine Problems! However,  As a Free-Service to You,  I Add to This Web-Page,  from Time to Time, More Trouble-Shooting & Repair-Information for S.A.F. Machines.
Which is a Hell of a Lot More than Strippit Will Do for You!

I have a Few Repair & Operation Manuals For-Sale,  and Repair Parts Listed on This Webpage.   Buy a Manual and Learn to Maintain & Repair Machine Yourself.

Rebuilding Machines can be Tricky if You Don't have Tools & Prior ExperienceIf You Need Field-Service Repairs In Your Shop,  Call These Servicemen;

Tom Penrod, Tracy, CA   Phone 209-814-7626   West-Coast Service Area.

Joe Normoyle,  La Puenta, CA   Phone 626-826-0007   West-Coast Service Area.

Denis Porter   R.I.P  7/9/10.   West-Coast Service Area.
He was  Best In The World  on  Repairing and Re-Machining S.A.F. Machines.

Alan Suda   708-826-9845,   Chicago & Mid-West Service Area.
Very Good on  S.A.F. Machines,  and Strippit CNC Turret-Machines.

Bob Kelly   815-355-0531,  Chicago-Land Area.
Good on  S.A.F. Machines,  and Strippit Fanuc-Control Turret-Machines.

More Strippit Servicemen are Listed on My
"Independent Strippit Control & Machine Repair Service"   Web-Page,  and
All  6  U.S.  Punch-Tooling  Companies are Listed at Bottom of My
"Strippit vs Amada"   Web-Page.    Use the  Hot-Link Buttons  Below!
Trouble-Shooting & Repairs
S.A.F.  Machines are Quite Reliable.   But as  Most Shops Do NO Maintenance at All,
and Add-In the Fact that Many Machines are now  20,  30, or even over  40 years old, they certainly can develop issues.    Some Common Problems are;
1 ---  Swing-Arm Holders.

Often Shops Buy a Used Machine,  but  Fail to get Both the  1 1/4"  and  3 1/2"  Holders!
Or while Using Machine,   Operators Switch Back & Forth between 2 Holders,  and Eventually 1 of them  Falls-Off Machine and Hits the Floor.   Holder will then
Break into 2 Pieces  because Strippit's Holders were Cast-Iron that Breaks Easily.    
You Can't Fix-It,  Many have Tried!     Buy a New Holder,  Our's are Made of Steel!
6 ---  Hooks & Handles

Right & Left Hooks  and  Left & Right Handles  Lock-In Swing-Arm Holders to Machine.
These are the Biggest Wear Items on Strippit Single-Station Machines!

They Very Commonly are Worn-Out  and  Will Not Stay Locked to Keep the Swing-Arm
Tightly Closed & Aligned.   This Allows Holders to Move and Wobble,  which causes
Punch and Dies to Hit & Wear & Break,  and cause Bad Punched-Hole Quality.

If your Knuckle-Head Operators have Bungee-Cords Holding Handles Closed,
Your Hooks & Handles are Worn-Out!    They will Need to be Replaced to Fix Problem.
7 ---  Maintenance Manuals.
If you do Not have a Manual for Your Machine,  You Need to Get One!    And  Read It!
We have Manuals Available for   Custom 18/30,  Super 30/30,  and  Super 30/40 HD.
5 ---  Bushings

Bushings in  1 1/4" and  3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holders Wear-Out from Operators Not using  Molykote GN Grease  on Tooling!   Wear allows Punch-Tools to Move & Deflect,  causing Tool-Wear & Burred Holes.   If you can Rock a New Tool Back & Forth Much,  Bushing is Worn and should be Replaced & Aligned.   Original  S.A.F.  Bushings were  1/16" Longer than Turret Type,  are not available.  We now use  #100230-000   1 1/4"
and  #100734-000   3 1/2" Turret Bushings.
8 ---  Grease Your Bearings!

Left & Right Crankshaft Bearings,  Pitman Bearing,  and Ram-Housing all need to be Greased Regularly.   Grease Bearings Every Week.   If you don't,  Bearings Gall-Up and Drag on Crankshaft,  which Slows Crank Speed causing Loss of Punch Tonnage.   Crank will Grind to a Stop and Motor Overload will Trip-Out.   At this point,  you have to do a Very Expensive Machine Rebuild.    Its Best to Maintain your Machines,  and Avoid This!

Strippit Specified  Mobil EP1  Grease.   I Switched to Newer  Synthetic Greases  which Protect & Perform Better at High & Low Temperatures and Do Not Dry-Out and Turn to Thick-Wax.   Mobil Synthetic (RED) Greases   Mobilith SHC220  &  Mobilith SHC460  work well.   I Like  Valvoline SynPower  as it has  Molybdenum Disulfide   Added for Extreme Pressure,  and is easy to find in Auto Parts Stores.   Put in a Grease-Gun, and Chain Gun
to Machine or Gun will Grow Little-Legs and Walk-Away and Will Not be Found!
9 ---  Maintain Proper
       Hydraulic Oil Level
       Inside Punch-Head!

Rotate  Right-Flywheel  Until  Scribed
"B.D.C.  Line"   (Bottom Dead-Center)  is  Lined-Up with
Bottom of Electrical Box.

Using  #49579-000  Dip-Stick,
Check  &  Maintain  Proper Level of
Mobil  DTE-24  Oil  inside Punch-Head.

Too-Little Oil  will  Short-Stroke Punch.

Too-Much  Oil   will  Over-Stroke
and  Spray-Out Oil while Punching.

Chain  Dip-Stick to Machine,  or it
will Grow Little-Legs and Walk-Away.
If Your's is already Gone,  We have
Punch-Head Dip-Sticks In-Stock!
4 ---  Lock-Pins

Check the  2 --  #62560-000  Lock-Pins,
on Swing-Arms that the Hooks Lock-On to.

They Must be Lubed with a Light Oil and be able to Rotate Freely,  or they will Develop a Wear-Spot,  cause Alignment Problems,  and need to be Replaced.    When Replacing Hooks & Handles,  I Always Replace these Lock-Pins Also.
12 ---  Some Common Electrical Problems.  

Note,  This Section Only Applies to  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/30,  Super 30/30,   Custom 30/40,  and  Super 30/40  Machines that were the Most Common SAF's made.
It does Not Apply to Hydraulic Machines like  Super 30/40 HD  and  Super 36/75.

Trouble-Shooters also need to Understand that SAF's were made for over 40 Years,
and there are Many Variations in Electrical Wiring,  Electrical Components,  and Mechanical Components used.    You will need to Understand how it Works to Fix it.

You will Need a Maintenance Manual,  Which has the Electrical Schematic in it,
to do any Trouble-Shooting.   Manual also has More Trouble-Shooting Charts & Theory.

As a Rule,   an Electrical Device Fails in  1 of  2 Ways;
---  It   "Shorts"  or  "Short-Circuit"   meaning  Very-Low  or  No-Resistance.
---  It   "Opens"  or  "Open-Circuit"   meaning  Very-High  or  Infinite-Resistance.

12A ---   Fuse Blows when you Try to Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
Caused by Shorted Punch Solenoid Coil,  Normal Coil Resistance is about 15 ohms.

12B ---  No Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
Caused by Open Punch Solenoid Coil,  Normal Coil Resistance is about 15 Ohms.

12C ---  Machine will Punch with Tool Handle Open and Not Locked-In.
Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch being Shorted.

12D ---  No Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.
Caused by Tool Handle Lock-Switch being Open.

12E ---  Punches OK in Nibble, but Blows Fuse 4FU and won't Punch in Single Mode.
Caused by Control Relay CR1 Coil Short,  Normal Resistance is about 250 Ohms.

12F ---  Punches OK in Nibble,  No Punch in Single.
Caused by Control Relay CR1 Coil Open.

12G ---  Varying Short to Normal Stroke in Single,  Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS1 Short.

12H ---  No Punch in Single,  Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS1 Open.

12I   ---  Starts Nibbling when you Punch in Single Mode, must Turn-Off Machine to Stop.
Caused by Limit Switch LS2 Short.

12J  ---  No Punch or Very Short Stroke in Single,  Normal Operation in Nibble.
Caused by Limit Switch LS2 Open.

12K  ---  Fuse 4FU Blows as Punch Ram starts to move down in Single or Nibble.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Coil Short,  Normal Resistance is about 2000 Ohms.

12L  ---  Machine continues to Punch in Single as long as Foot Petal is Depressed.
Caused by Control Relay CR2 Open,  Normal Resistance is about 2000 Ohms.

12M  ---  No Punch in Single,  but Nibble Punches Without Depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Limit Switch LS3 Short.   NoteEarly Machines do Not have this  LS3 Switch
which was Added to Eliminate Possibility of Double Punching in Singe-Punch Mode.

12N  ---  Constant Nibble Punching in Single Mode,  Normal Operation in Nibble Mode.
Caused by Limit Switch  LS3 Open.

12O  ---  1 Punch at Power-On.   Punching in Nibble without depressing Footswitch.
Caused by Shorted Footswitch.

12P  ---  Will not Punch in Single or Nibble Mode.     Caused by Open Footswitch.

12Q  ---  3-Phase Fuses Blow.    Caused by;
---  Wrong  A.C. voltage to machine or motor & transformer not wired for correct voltage
---  Bad  (Shorted)  Press-Drive Motor        
---  Stalled Motor from Bad Crankshaft Bearings or from Old Hardened Grease
---  Shorted / Melted Step-Down Transformer.    Caused by Wrong  A.C. Voltage to Machine  or  Big-Loads Plugged-In to 110 VAC Machine Power Socket,  like a Cooling Fan.   This External Power-Socket was made Only for a 60 Watt Work-Light!
I sometimes Disconnect this Socket to Prevent this Common Problem.
Punch-Tooling    Punch-Tooling    Punch-Tooling
I get many Calls on Where to Buy New Punch Tooling & Dies.
Sadly,   and Quite Stupidly,   LVD Strippit   Sold-Off  All Their  Tooling-Lines,   and
No Longer Makes   "Strippit Tooling"   that  The Strippit Company  was Named for!

This Type of Tooling is now Known as   "Thin Turret Tooling".
Most of these Strippit  SAF-Machines Use Only   "Thin Turret Tooling".

Some Single-Station Machines that had a CNC-Control Factory-Installed,
like the   "AG's" (Auto-Gageing)  and   "Super 750's",   were Optioned & Sometimes Manufactured to take the   "Thick-Turret  /  Long  /  Amada"   Type of Tooling.
But,  Strictly Speaking,  these are  Not  SAF-Machines.   They are CNC Punch Machines.

I have  6  Hot-Links to  U.S. Manufactures of Thin-Turret Tooling at Bottom of Web-Page
"Strippit vs Amada"
So,  Please Go To That  Web-Page For These  6  Tooling Company Links!!!
2ND Generation  is the  "AG's".  Made in Late 1980's & Early 1990's,  Strippit took their Custom 18/30 & Custom 30/30 SAF Machines and Bolted-On a Cheap Japanese 2-Axis CNC Gageing Control,  to make a Auto-Gageing (AG) Machine.
At Left,  is 1980 Vintage Super 30/30AG  Machine with  "Long Tooling"  Option.

Earlix Control Company is Now Out of
Business,  there are No Control Parts Available,  and Little or No Strippit SupportAvoid these  "AG"  Machines!
CNC Side-Gage & Auto-Gage Machines
Strictly Speaking,  These are Not SAF Machines.
They are Auto-Gageing (AG)  and NC & CNC Single-Station Punch Machines.
So Far,  Strippit has had 4 Generations of these Types of Machines.
1St Generation  was FM36/75 (Fabra-Matic) Machines.   Strippit made Both Manual Super36/75  SAF Machines as well as Automatic   NC Control Fabra-Matic 36/75 Machines in 1960's & 1970's with a Hughes 200 or General Electric NC Control.

NC Controls had No Memory, simply read Information from Papertape, moved X & Y Axis with the Part-Sheet, and Punched when in Position.   A Program Stop was made when Operator was Required to Manually Change the Tool.   No Parts or Service is Available for these Machines.
The  3ND Generation  is the  "Super750"

In Late 1990's & Early 2000's,  Strippit Finally designed a Decent Auto-Gageing
Single-Station Machine,  But then Ruined It by putting another Version of Strippit's Crappy PC-Control on it!    PC-Controls are Not a Bad Thing,  its just that LVD-Strippit has a Reputation for Not Supporting Their PC-Controls after a Few Short Years!   In this Case, "Control"  Requires an Old PC-Computer that Runs on DOS   (Remember DOS, 
Pre-Windows from Early 1980's!)  so when you have Problems,  you will find that Newer Computers and Windows Do Not Work on it!   I get a Lot of calls on Super750's with Computer Problems.   Again,  The Machine is Good,  but I would Avoid them because of Strippit's Crappy PC-Control and Strippit's Even More Crappy Support for it.  
Ask the People who Own a Strippit FC1000R with a Apple-MAC or Windows PC-Control!
Note,   Mr. Keith Coffee is Pretty-Good at Fixing these PC-Controls, 
He is listed on my       "Independent Strippit Service"       Web-Page.   Go There!
The  4ND Generation  is the  "Alpha's"

These were a Updated & Redesigned Super750,  and were reported to be Good Machines that Worked Well.
Machines used yet another Version of Strippit's Crappy PC-Control,
Which is Machine's Main Problem Area.
Production was Brief,  Starting about 2005,  and Ended about 2007.   Avoid for Above PC-Control Support Reasons.
3 ---  3 1/2" to 1 1/4"  Die Adaptor

30-Ton Machines come with Die-Pedestal that Accepts a Standard  3 1/2" Die.

To use  1 1/4" Tooling,  you will Need
the  1 1/4"  Swing-Arm   AND
the  3 1/2"   to   1 1/4"  Die Adaptor.

These also seem to get Lost when Used Machines are Bought & Sold. 
Please Read This!!!
Punch Tooling Sizes!
As there are Thousands of these  S.A.F.  Machines Out-There,  many New People & Small-Shops are Picking-Up these Machines at a Local Friends Shop or at Auctions,
and they have  No Idea What The Tooling Sizes Meanand are Thoroughly Confused.

For Instance,  They Measure The  "Hole"  in their  1 1/4" Holder,  and see that it is
1 1/2",   and They Think they need  1 1/2" Tooling,   which  Does Not Exist!

For Standard  "Strippit-Style"  "Thin-Turret"  Tooling,   There has Only Been  4 Sizes,
1 1/4",     3 1/2",     5",    and    2" x 2" Notch   Tooling.

For Example,  1 1/4"  Tooling  Means a Type of Small-Tooling that can Hold a Punch from 0  to  1 1/4"  in Size.     Obviously,  Punch-Holder  that Holds Tooling  Must be Larger
than Biggest Punch Tool Size.    All  1 1/4"  Type  Punch-Holders are  1 1/2"  in Diameter.
By a  Wild  Coincidence,   This is Same Size of the  "Hole"  in a   1 1/4"  S.A.F.
Swing-Arm Holder  or a  CNC-Turret   1 1/4" Station,   that the   1 1/4" Tooling Fits into!

So,  To Recap;

----    1 1/4"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to  1 1/4"   Punch Sizes,
       and fits into a  Holder of   1 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    Notch-Tooling   takes  Special  0"  to  2"   Punch Sizes,   but is Almost Always a
       2" x 2" Square,  and fits into a Special  Notch-Holder  that is   3 1/2"  in Diameter.

----    3 1/2"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to  3 1/2"   Punch Sizes,
        and fits into a  Holder of   4 3/8"  in Diameter.

----    5"  Type-Tooling   takes   0"  to  5"   Punch Sizes,  and fits into a
        Holder of   5 7/8"  in Diameter.   
        Note,  I believe that  5" Thin-Turret Tooling is No Longer Manufactured anywhere.
The Rare "2 x 2 Notch"  Swing-Arm Holder.  So Named because they almost always have a  2" x 2" Square
Punch in it for Corner-Notching and Blanking-Out Large Holes.   These Can-Not Hold a Standard  3 1/2" Tool!

This uses same  2 x 2 Notch Punch Tool used in  "Notch Station #1"  in Older Strippit  Turret-Machines.

These was also a Very Large
5 Inch  Swing-Arm Holder
available for the  40 Ton S.A.F. Machines.

These Holders & Stripping-Guides were Very Heavy  and Hard to Handle.

5" Swing-Arms,  5" Punch-Holders,  and
5" Tooling are No Longer Manufactured.
10 ---  #49011-200  Solenoid

Solenoids Burn-Out when Components like Failed
Switches allow A.C. Power to be on Continuously.  Find the Failure that Caused Solenoid to Burn-Out,  or you will Burn it Out again!

A  Good Coil is About  15 Ohms,   a Bad Coil is   "Shorted"  Zero Ohms or  "Open" Zillions of Ohms.

Hard to Replace as you have to Drop Ram-Housing and Rebuild Punch-Head.  Get  Rebuild Kit  Below! Make Sure Solenoid-Plunger is Aligned with Slot in Solenoid or you will Smash-It  when you try to Jack-Up Housing Back in place!
11 -- #119951-000  Punch-Head Rebuild Kit.   Whenever you Drop-Down
Ram-Housing,  Always  "Rebuild the Punch-Head"  with New Packing-Rings and
Ram-Springs.   We Have These Rebuild Kits For-Sale!    Kit Consists of;
1 --  #10461-000  Steel Drain-Ball
1 --  #10925-000  Set-Screw, Steel Ball-Retainer
2 --  #11153-000  Retainer-Ring Set-Screws without Ny-Loc,  Or
      #10871-000  Retainer-Ring Set-Screws with Ny-Loc Thread-Lock
2 --  #11143-000  Nylon-Ball,  used under Retainer-Ring Set-Screws
2 --  #10859-000  Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw with Ny-Loc, for Ram-Plate
4 --  #11489-000  Flat-Head Socket-Head Cap Screw,  for Cover-Plate,
                          Note,  Some Manuals List Incorrect #11499-000 for this Part
1 --  #12593-000  O-Ring
1 --  #16144-000  O-Ring
1 --  #14360-000  O-Ring
1 --  #10651-000  O-Ring
1 --  #49509-000  Set of 4 Packing-Rings
4 --  #49516-000  Ram Springs
1 --  Locktite-242  Thread-Locker
Punch-Head Rebuild Kits

We now have Rebuild Kits
Read-To-Ship,  with All Parts Needed to Rebuild  your Strippit  Super 30/30,  Custom 30/30,  Custom 18/30,  Custom 30/40,  Super 30/30-AG,  and  Super 30/40-Mechanical  Punch-Heads.

Use   Locktite-242  Thread-Locker
on Screws to keep them Tight!
14 ---  #62081-000  Finger Stop Assembly, for Side-Gaging.  Make sure you get these when Buying your Machine as they are Out-Of-ProductionWe Have a Limited Supply of Finger-Stops Available if You Didn't get any with your Machine.

If You needed more Precise Side-Gaging than Finger-Stops could provide,
Strippit made Micrometer Side-Stops that could be very accurately adjusted.
Or I would have a  DRO  Electronic Scale and Readouts  Fitted to Machine.
The Following is a Few Tips on Rebuilding the Punch-Head.
Make Sure You Have A Manual Before You Start Rebuilding!
  Pull the 2 Taper-Dowel Pins.
  Now you know Why I Have a
  Dowel Pin Web-Page,
  Click-On The Link Below!
Block-Up the Head so it won't Fall.
You will Need a Good Allen-Socket Set.  
A Pipe makes a Good Torque-Amplifier
to Loosen & Tighten Bolts.
I just Put-In  New Hooks & Handles  in this Machine,  as Old Handles would Not
Lock-In and Swing-Arm could be Rocked Back & Forth,  so it Ate-Tooling.

There is a 1/8" Roll-Pin that Engages Slot in Bottom of each Hook. This makes Hooks Open all the way when you pull Handles
Open,  so you can Remove Swing-Arm.

Unfortunately,  they are Always Broken.
Put in New Pins.

Packing-Ring Retaining-Ring Usually has
2 Indentations on Bottom for a Special Spanner-Wrench that I have Never Seen.   So you Tighten Ring as much as you can by Hand,  then Tap-It Tighter with a Small Pin-Punch and Small Hammer.

Try Hard Not to Bugger-Up the
Ring  &  Piston  &  Set-Screw Threads!

---  Make Sure Solenoid and  Solenoid-Plunger are Aligned, 
or you could Break Solenoid if you Force it up Housing!

---  New Packing-Rings sometimes make it Difficult to Get Ram-Piston back into Housing.   A Second Set of Hands can Help a Lot.

---  Carefully Pry-Up and
Block-Up Ram-Housing
into Position.

---  Thread a Bolt into both Dowel Pins,  and Tap Dowels into their Holes.   Do both Sides several times to Locate the Housing Well.   Remove 2 Bolts.

---  Put in the 4 Bolts,  and Tighten them Back & Forth several times.
13 ---  Clean & Lube Tooling Regularly!  Inside
Tools to Prevent Galling  &  Cold Welding
between Punch-Tool  &  Stripping Guide.   Outside Tools to Prevent Wear on Stripping
Guide and  Holder or Turret Bushing.

Also,  Grease-Up your Hooks & Handles to help keep them from Wearing-Out!

This is 1 of the Best Lubes I have used.
Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease. Synthetic-Base has High Film-Strength, does Not Dry-Out and Harden like Regular Grease,
and has Extreme Pressure Additives Molybdenum Disulfide   &  Graphite.   A 12 oz. Tub is  Part #SL3303,  about  $20 at  NAPA
and  PEP-Boys  Car Part Stores in  U.S.
This Customer Moved & Wired-Up His Super 30/30 All By Themselves.   But,  they Put the Wrong Voltage on it and Melted Transformer.

Strippit Made these Machines for Over 40 Years and Used Various Part-Venders.  It is Difficult to get an Exact Transformer to Match Bolt Holes and Limited Space Inside the Electrical Cabinet.

We Bought an Enclosed  .25 KVA Transformer,
(.35 or .5 KVA is Better)  and just Mounted it on Back of Control Cabinet.   Quick & Easy to Do.

Remember,  if  Changing Machine Voltages;
---  Pull-Motor Out & Redo Voltage Tap-Wires
---  Retap Transformer Wires
---  Resize & Change Fuses
---  Resize & Change Overload-Heaters
---  Tag-Machine with New Voltage Information!
Mag Switch Retrofit
One of Many Machines Variations was in  LS1 & LS2  Switches activated by 2 Flywheels.  In 1960's, 1970's,  and 1980's  different Brands of Mechanical Switches  were used,  Allen Bradley,  MicroSwitch,  G.E.,  Etc.    We Sell MicroSwitch Types as they Work Best!

Switches made Constant  "Clacking"  Sound as they were Hit by Flywheel Cams when Machine was On.   Because Switches are Constantly being Hit Hard by Flywheel Cams about Twice a Second  (60,000 Time a 8-Hour Shift!)  when Machine is On, 
Even When Not Punching,  Switch life could be Short.    Turn Off Machine if Not Using it!

In the Early 1980's,  Switches were converted to a kind of Non-Contact Proximity Switch that was activated by Magnets Mounted on 2 Flywheels.   From this Time on,  Machines now left the Strippit Factory with these Switches as Standard.

There was also a Retrofit Kit  #105090-000  to Convert Older Machines to this new type
of Switches,  and many Machines have had this Kit Installed in the Field.  
As Machine would No longer make the  "Clacking"  Sound,  an Indicator-Light was added to Upper Panel as part of the Kit to Alert Shop People that Machine was  "On".

#19274-000    Normally-Open Switch   (Red-Wires),    LS1  is on the Left Side.
#19275-000    Normally-Closed Switch   (Blue-Wires),    LS2  is on the Right Side.
#105092-000   Magnet.    2 are used,   1 Magnet is Mounted on each Flywheel.
Photo of Magnetic Switches & Magnet is shown above.   We Stock Switches & Magnets!
After Over a Half-Century of Production,  It Now Appears LVD Strippit,
In Their Infinite Wisdom,   No Longer Makes Any Single-Station Machines At All!
We Have
Brand-New
1 1/4  Inch
Swing-Arm Holders
For-Sale!

These are
Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!
To use Standard   1 1/4"  Type Tooling,  you will Need a 
1 1/4"  Swing-Arm Holder   as Shown Above,   AND   You will Need a
3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor,  as is Shown in  Section 2 Below.
We Have
Brand-New
3 1/2  Inch
Swing-Arm Holders
For-Sale!

These are
Made of Steel,
Not Brittle Iron!
OK,  Newbies,  Now Listen Up!

To use Standard Strippit
"Thin-Turret" 3 1/2"  Type Tooling,

You will first Buy a  Tool-Set,
like  At Right,
Consisting of a  PunchDie,
and  Stripper-Plate.

You will then Install
Punch  and  Stripper-Plate  Into a
3 1/2"  Stripping-Guide
Punch-Holder Assembly
like Shown  At Right.

We have Good-Used  and Brand-New
3 1/2"  Stripping-Guide Assemblies
For-Sale.

You will then Drop-In the
3 1/2" Stripping-Guide
Assembly that is already
Loaded with Your Tooling
into 3 1/2"  Swing-Arm Holder
and put it into your Machine,
and Lock-It In Tight with
Hooks & Handles.

2 ---  5"  to  3 1/2"  Die Adaptor

40-Ton  Super 30/40  Machines came with Die-Pedestal for  5" Type Die.

To use  3 1/2"  Dies,  you Drop-In this #98770-000  5"  to  3 1/2" Die Adaptor.
To use  1 1/4"  Dies,  you Drop-In the  3 1/2"  to  1 1/4"  Die Adaptor
into the  5"  to  3 1/2"  Adaptor.

Teach your Knuckle-Head Operators to  NOT Cross Punch & Dies,  as it will Break Adaptors which are Not Manufactured anymore.
The Following are Good Used Repair Parts that we have Gathered.

These are 1 of a Kind Parts,  so if you need them,  Buy Them Now,
as when they are Gone,  we are Not likely to Ever have them again!
Super 30/30
360 Degree Die Index-Ring.

If your Die Index-Ring
is Broken or Missing
we have Brand-New
Stainless Steel
Index-Rings available
at a Fraction of
Strippit's Price.
Barrel Micrometer
Gaging Stop Assembly with
No Knuckle-Head Protection.
Dial Indicator
Gaging Stop Assembly
Die Kicker Pin.   Used to Lift-Up Dies for Removal.    Very Expensive  and
Hard-To-Get,  Try Not to Break Your's!
Slide-Stop
Barrel Micrometer Gaging Assembly.

Assembly has Protective Cage Around Micrometer so Knuckle-Heads can't Smash it with their Sheetmetal Parts.
We Sell This Replacement Relay & Socket  as the Original CR1 Relay is No Longer Available.   We Replace it with Newer Plug-In Relay with Red-LED Indicator-Light to show when it's Actuated.   Note,  Strippit Single-Station Machines were  Wired Many Different Ways over  40+ Years of Production.   Relay will need to be Installed by Someone who Understands Electricity,  as there  Will be Wiring Variations to Figure-Out at Installation!
My Friend  Denis Porter  in  "California Shaker".
His Boat did 137 MPH  in Less Than  8 Seconds in  The 1/4 Mile Drag-Race.
He also Raced Flat-Track Harley's in Younger-Days,  and Flew Ultra-Lite Aircraft!

Denis Got His Last-Wish 7/9/10 at Speed in This Boat on Lake San Antonio, CA.
Rest In Peace Denis.
Remove Ram from
Housing Assembly to replace
the 4 Ram-Springs.

Don't be like The Meat-Heads
that tried to Beat-Out the Ram
out of this Housing
with a Sledge Hammer!

I had to have their Ram and Housing Re-Machined
for about $1000 after their Attempts at  "Repairs".

If you take out the
Top  Spiral Retaining-Ring  First,
You can then Easily
Just Push-Out the Ram by Hand!

Look at Diagrams
in Your Manual
Before you try to take it Apart!

No Manual?   Buy 1 Today!!!
---  Make sure Safety Interlock LS4 Switch Wires are
Not Pinched  in Back of Housing when you Bolt-It back to Machine Frame.

---  This Switch Assembly is Made-Up of several Parts that are Expensive & Difficult to get so try not to Damage them.

---  Run a File Over Back of Housing & Machine Frame
Mounting to Eliminate All Burrs
that Will Cause Tool Alignment!
A Little Trick from my
Old Strippit Days.

When Trouble Shooting Electrical Problems,  Take-Out 6 Control Panel Screws, 
Move the Panel Up, 
and Re-Attach it to Top of Electrical Box with 2 of the Mounting Screws.

Now you can Run Machine & Troubleshoot Electrical Problems while having Access to Switch Terminal-Strip.
Hint.   Don't Leave Machine-On for Hours & Hours when Not
Using it,  as Ram is Always Going Up & Down,  About
60,000 Times  a  8-Hour Shift,
Wearing-Out Switches,  Ram Springs,  &  Packing-Rings!
1 1/4 Inch
Swing-Arm
Tool Holder
in Good Used
Condition
for Less Than
Half-Price of a
New Holder.
Note!
We have Stopped
Production
of Many of these
Repair Parts!

If a Part you need
is Available,
Buy It Now!
Two

3 1/2 Inch
Swing-Arm Tool Holdersin
Very Good Used Condition

New  Tool Lifter-Kit  for
1 1/4" Swing-Arm Holder


New  Lifter-Kit  for
3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder

The Creonics Saga
In 1980's,  a Company called  Creonics Manufactured the  "Panelgage"  which was a Simple CNC Gageing System that could be Retrofitted In-Your-Shop  to Various Machines,  Including Single-Station Strippit Machines.

On Strippit's,  the Original Strippit Mechanical Gageing System was Removed  (And Then Promptly Lost)  and Replaced with Programmable CNC Gageing System.   My Understanding is that when New  (30 years ago)  these Systems worked quite well in certain applications.

However,  I would  NOT  Recommend Buying a Machine with a Creonics Retrofit;
---  Creonics is Long Out of Business as they 
     were Bought Out by the   Allen Bradley Co.
     which is now part of Rockwell Automation Co.
---  The Retrofitters that did these are Long Gone.
---  Creonics Parts & Service are Hard to Find.
---  As Machines have been Bastardized,  so
     Strippit will Not work on Machines anymore.
---  Can Not use Manual Gageing Anymore.
---  The Mechanical Parts to Convert Back to
      Mechanical Gageing are Not available.

Electronic Labs like;         (Google  "Creonics")
Test Point Inc.      or
New England Computer Controls     or
PLC Talk.Net     or    ACCU Electric Motors Co.
that will Repair Circuit Boards,  and  Allen Bradley may Offer a Bit of Control Help.    But you are Really on your own with Retrofitted Machines.

In the 1960's,  Strippit used  Old-Style  3 1/2" Swing-Arm Holder in their S.A.F. Machines.   Look Closely,  Swing-Arm
does Not have a Tool Lifter.   Instead,  it used a Matching Old-Style  3 1/2" Stripping-Guide with 4 Lifter-Springs built-In to Lift Holder.   Old-Style Guides are No longer available.   You can Not use New-style Stripping-Guide in a Old Swing-Arm as it does Not have Lifter.   Old Swing-Arms can be Machined to add Lifter-Kit to use a Newer Stripping Guide Assembly in it.
Install 4 Packing Rings Correctly!

Solid-Side of Each Ring goes UP!

Open Lip-Side of each Ring goes DOWN!

Make Sure Retaining Ring is Very Tight
and use 2 Nylon-Balls  and  2 Set-Screws to Hold Ring in Place without
Buggering-Up the Threads on Piston!

And Don't Foget
to Replace the
2 Drive-Belts!

We Stock these Drive-Belts.

If your's is
Missing,  Bent,  or  Broken,
We now Stock the
Special  Spiral Retaining-Ring
located at
Top of the Ram-Housing.
Proper Switch Actuation is Critical on these Punch Machines!   "Off-Brand"  Substitute Switches and Worn-Out Switches Cause a Variety of Punching Problems.    When in Doubt we Replace   LS1 (Left)  and  LS2  (Right)  Switches with  Part  #49790-040.   With these Switches,  we Set Arm-Rollers to Not Quite Touch Flywheel and Switch would Activate  (Switch)  Half-Way Up the Cam.  Put Drop of Oil on Center of Roller so it Rolls, and Not Drag and Cut Groove in Cams.   LS3  Double-Punch Prevent Switch  (Center)  is Part  #12979-000.   Early Machines were Wired Differently and did Not have  LS3 Switch.

We Stock
The Correct
Mechanical
LS1,   LS2,
and   LS3 Switches


We Stock
The Correct
LS1  &  LS2
Mag-Switches
and
Switch-Magnets