Common Strippit
CNC Turret Machine Problems
All Machines Have Problems.
New Machines, as Well as Old Machines.
Machine Technologies Specializes in the
Strippit HECC80 CNC Control Turret Machines,
so I will show Some Common Problems & The Fixes for these Problems.
For many years, Strippit used a Aluminum Plate with 2
#17441-000 Magnets (3 on FC1000/3 & 33 Station FC1250/30/1500) for the Clutch & Brake Actuation Timing.
Different Model Machines had the Magnets and the
#18122-000 Sensors in different Positions, but they all worked the same way.
At the Top of the Plate there was usually a Notch or Mark which indicated "Top Dead Center" (TDC). At the start of a Punch-Cycle, CNC Control would "Fire" both the Clutch & Brake MAC Solenoid Valves at the same time. The Brake would release, the Clutch would Go-On, and the Crankshaft would start to Rotate. As it Rotated, it would push the Pitman & Ram downward to the Punch-Tool.
As Crankshaft rotated 180 Degrees, the Ram & Punch-Tool would now be at "Bottom Dead Center" (BDC) and must have Pierced the Metal-Sheet Part, so the "Clutch-Dump" Magnet goes by it's Sensor, telling the Control to Release the Clutch. The Clutch Releases, and the Crankshaft & Ram starts Coasting.
About 30 to 50 Degrees later, the "Brake-On" Magnet goes by it's Sensor, telling the Control to Release the Brake.
The Brake goes On, and the Crankshaft Brakes to a Halt.
If everything is adjusted Correctly and is in Good Condition (Clutch, Brake, Valves, Sensors, Etc.) the Crankshaft should now be back at TDC Position, ready for the next Punch-Cycle.
PROBLEM: Timing Plate getting Loose & Falling Off. This will also Damage the Magnets & Sensors.
Because of the Shock of Starting & Stopping millions of times, and the Shock from the Punching which travels up the Ram to the ends of the Crankshaft, the Bolts Holding the Timing-Plate to the Crankshaft get Loose, or even Break. There are 2 Things you can do to help this situation;
1 -- Lighten the Disk by Milling or Laser out Holes in Disk to reduce the MASS of the Disk, and therefor the Shock-Load on the Bolts. 3 Examples of Lightened-Disks are in the Photos below.
2 -- Buy a Box of High-Strength bolts. Then as Regular Preventive-Maintenance, every 3 Months or so, Replace the Old Bolts with New Bolts Before they Fatigue and Break! Make sure the Old Bolts go into the Scrap Bin, or Someone will Reuse Them! Use a High-Strength (Hardened) Washer under each Bolt. Never use "Lock-Tight" or other Thread-Locker Compound on the Bolt-Threads, because when (Not if) they Break, you will Never get them Out! A broken Bolt, Without Thread-Lock, can usually be "Walked-Out" by Carefully Tapping the Outer-Edge of the Broken Bolt with a Sharpened Pin-Punch and a Small Hammer.
Beautifully Done by
Custom Metal Fab Co.
of
Chesterfield, VA.
with their
Mighty Mazak Laser.
This Is
The Way
To Lighten
Your Timing Disk!
Timing-Disk on Their
Strippit FC1000/2 Machine.
Timing-Disk
on a Early Strippit FC1250/30/1500 Machine.
A bit Crude,
but still Effective.
Timing-Disk
on a Strippit FC1000/3 Machine.
Nicely Done,
but
I would have made the
Holes Bigger
to make the
Disk Lighter.
PROBLEMS: Setting Clutch & Brake Sensors, Intermittent Ram-Downs,
Timing Magnets hit Sensors, Magnets Breaking and Sensors Damaged
This is usually cause by one of following causes;
1 -- The GAP between Magnet and Sensors are being Improperly Set.
Rotate the Turret, and put a Empty Tool Station under the Ram. TURN OFF MACHINE!
Push-Down & Twist the Pilot-Button on the Brake Mac-Valve, this will Release the Brake. Grasp the Timing-Disk with both hands, you should be able to rotate Crankshaft to align Magnet over its Sensor.
Check that Magnet is Perfectly Aligned, Left to Right, with its Sensor. If not, Adjust Sensor, Bracket, Elongate the Mounting Holes, or whatever you have to do, to get Alignment Perfect.
Push & Pull Hard the Disk, you will probably feel and hear a small "Clunking" sound, this is the Crankshaft going Back & Forth because of the "Slop" in the End-Bearings in your Press-Drive.
On some Machines Sensors are "Inside" the Disk, on other Machines the Sensors are "Outside" of Disk. Push (or Pull) to Take-Up the Slop between the Magnet & Sensor GAP.
Now, Set the GAP to .025 Inch. Repeat this Alignment Procedure with the Other Magnet & Sensor.
In this way, the Crankshaft can only Drift-Away From Sensors, and Not into it, causing a "Crash".
Also, Do Not Over Tighten the Nut on the Magnet-Stud, it will pull the threaded-stud out of the magnet.
2 -- Wear in the End-Bearings is Excessive.
The Crankshaft will "Float" back & forth while Punching, causing Magnet & Sensor Crashes,
or the Gap-Setting will get Too-Wide so that the Sensors will Not Work at all,
and you get a Intermittent "Ram-Down".
This Wear is usually caused by You, the Customer, NOT using the Correct Lubrication Oil.
The Correct Lube Oil is MOBIL DTE "HEAVY" ISO 100 WEIGHT LUBRICATION OIL !!!
If you have any Doubt, Change your Lube Oil & Filter!
Most Customers & Machine Operators are Lazy, and do Not Bother to read the Excellent Manuals
that Strippit Produced (look at other Company's Manuals if you don't think so!).
And so they just Grab the First Bucket of Oil-Like Substance that they see,
after the Machine Stops Punching with a "Lube" All-Hold Condition.
Often the First Bucket of Fluid they See is Hydraulic Oil, that all shops have Laying Around.
Hydraulic Oil is a Thin (ISO 32) Fluid Designed for Transmitting Power, Not Lubrication!
They fill the Empty Lube Tank with it, and Continue to Run Machine.
Over Time, This Causes the Crankshaft Bearings to Grind themselves to Dust, causing the End-Play!
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER Use Hydraulic Oil In The Lube Tank !!!
It Is Very Difficult & Very Expensive To Replace Crankshaft Bearings.
On these Machines we Retrofit a New Nylon-Timing Hub, New Bracket, and New Proximity Sensors in place of the old Aluminum Disk & Magnet Sensors. Sensors are mounted at Side of Hub, and "Sense" the Metal-Foil Tape Patches that are placed on Hub. This way, Crankshaft & Hub can "Walk" back and forth, and does not cause the Magnet & Sensor "Crashes" of the original System.
Starting in 1985, Strippit Quit using the Aluminum-Timing Plate and Magnet Sensors for Press-Timing, and Switched to the Nylon-Hub with Metal-Tape for most of it's Mechanical Press-Drive Machines.
This page was last updated: April 9, 2008
Our
Nylon-Hub &
Prox-Sensor
Retrofit on a
Strippit
FC1000/2 Machine.
Note,
We have also fit this
Machine with the
Latest-Style
Stroke-Limiter
Brake Assembly,
which Lasts Longer and
Works Better than the Original Brake that
Strippit used.
PROBLEM: Machine Stops with a "RAM DOWN" Error Message.
This is a Common Problem with Many Different Causes. As it is a Press-Drive System with Many Components (Clutch, Brake, Valves, Regulators, Sensors, Etc.) Troubleshooting can be Difficult as Anything in the System that is Not Correct can Cause the Same Ram-Down Symptom.
1 -- Make sure it really has a True Ram-Down Condition, and Not a False Error caused by a
Miss-Adjusted or Damaged "Ram-Up" Sensor.
2 -- Look for Clues. Did it Stop when making a Hi-Tonnage Punch? Sometimes Shock & Vibration
will Rattle a "Door-Open" Switch which causes a "All-Hold" or "Punch Hold" Condition which will cause the Control to "Kill" the Punch-Cycle Immediately Wherever it is in the Cycle.
3 -- Make sure "Clutch-Dump" and "Brake-On" Sensors are Not Damaged and are Set-Up properly.
And check Magnets or Sensor-Tape Patches that actuate the Sensors.
See the "Setting Clutch & Brake Sensors" Section below.
4 -- Make sure the Timing-Hub or Timing-Disk is Tight, and does Not have Broken-Bolts which allow
it to Slip Timing Position.
5 -- A Bad-Lube Signal will Kill the Punch-Cycle.
Check Lube Tank Level, Pump, and Lube-Sensors, and even the Lube Oil Type.
The CNC Control wants to see a Lube-Signal, from the Lube-Block Switch,
Every 2.5 Seconds or Less, or it Will Issue a "Bad Lube" Signal
(which will Flash up onto the Self-Scan Display, but this Message will Not-Latch and will
Disappear if the Condition is Intermittent!). Control also issues a "Punch Hold" which will Stop
the Punch-Cycle wherever it happens to be. The usual cause is a Worn-Out Lube-Pump,
Wrong Too-Thick Lube Oil, or Too-Cold Lube Oil, or Faulty Sensor Assembly on Lube-Block.
We Stock Replacement Pumps, Filters, and Sensors.
6 -- Check Air Pressures. Low Air Pressure will cause "Work Clamp Open" Errors which Kills the
Punch-Cycle. I like Air to Machine to be 100 to 110 PSI, and Fed from a 1" Diameter Pipe.
Make sure Air Filters are Not Clogged, and that there are No Air-Restrictions!
7 -- Check Air Gages. Old Gages are Commonly Bad, Replace with Hi-Quality Glycerin-Filled Gages.
8 -- Check Clutch and Brake air Pressures. Clutch & Brake Regulators sometimes go Bad, and have
Slow Air-Flow. In the U.S., I Replace with new 3/4" or even 1" Hi-Flow Regulators from Grainger Co. or other Good Brand. Minor Plumbing changes may be required.
I Set Clutch Pressure to 55LBS, No Higher!!!
On Single-Disk Brake Machines (FC750, FC750/2, FC1000/1, FC1000/2, FC1250/30/1500
with 20-Station Turrets, and FC1250/45) Set Brake Air Pressure to 55 LBS, No-Higher!!!
On 2 Disk-Brake Machines (FC1000/3 and FC1250/30/1500 with 33-Station Turrets)
Set Brake Air Pressure to 38 to 40 LBS, No-Higher!!!
Do Not Increase Brake Air Pressure!!!
It Does Not Make Brakes "Work Better" !!! It Actually Makes Brakes Work Slower!!!
9 -- Make sure Drive Belts are in Good Condition and are Tight.
10 -- Check Clutch "Poppit" Valve, which is Inside the QRV-Rotary Seal Assembly.
These Break and Crumble with Age, and Do Need Replacement Periodically!!!
Part #18085-000
The Standard 8.5-Watt Valve
for Clutch and Brake Usage
on Most Machines.
Part #801020-000
Special 24-Watt Hi-Speed Valve for Brake Usage Only!
Necessary on FC1000/3 Machines, and Improves the Brake-Response on Other HECC80 Machines Also. Recommended!
We keep Both of these Valves
In-Stock for Overnight Delivery!
#17363-300
Clutch Poppit Valve
These Clutch Poppits
Crack & Fall-Apart
as they Age,
Causing Big Clutch Air-Leaks,
and Must be Replaced from Time to Time.
We Always keep Poppits
In-Stock
for Overnight Delivery!
Above is Photo of The End of a Crankshaft Broken Off!
This Is One of Those "BAD THINGS" That Is Best Avoided!
Caused by Sticking Clutch & Brake Valves!
And by Stupid Operators that "POP" the Clutch Mac Valve to get the "Ram Back Up"!
Never, Never, Never Do That!!!
To Get The Ram Up;
First, Make Sure Shotpins are In, Workclamps are Closed, You have Good (Above 90PSI) Air Pressure, and Anything Else that could Stop a Punch Cycle is Fixed.
Then, Do a "Forced-Punch Cycle", Which is a Feature that Strippit Designed-In to
All Their HECC80 Controls to Force the Ram to Cycle Back Up to the Top.
To Do "Forced-Punch Cycle" FOR HECC80/1 TYPE CONTROLS;
Push the "Clear All" Button, and Wait a few Seconds for the Control to Reboot.
Put Lower Selector Switch in the "Tape" Mode.
You then put Control in "Auto" with the Upper Selector Switch.
Then Hold-Down the "Cycle-Stop" And The "Punch" Buttons at the Same Time.
The Ram should Cycle Up & Down until you Release One of the Buttons,
then Stop at Top-Dead-Center Position , Unless Something is Mechanically Wrong.
To Do "Forced-Punch Cycle" FOR HECC80/3 TYPE CONTROLS;
Select any Part-Program in Memory.
Select the "Auto" Mode.
There should now be a "Force" Softkey showing on CRT Monitor.
Push it, and Ram should Cycle Up & Down until Released, and then Stop at T.D.C.,
Unless there is Something Mechanically Wrong that needs to be Repaired.
We Have Many
Clutch and Brake
Rebuild Parts
In-Stock!
There is More
Brake Rebuilding Notes on Our
"Machine Repair Parts" Web-Page.
A New Brake Assembly
with the Stroke-Limiter Option.
Brakes & Clutches Units & Parts, have become Hard to keep
In-Stock, with a 4 Month Leadtime! We always have New Units coming in, but we usually Sell them Faster that we get them!
If you think you Need a New Brake or Clutch, Order-It Before Yours goes Completely Bad,
as you may NOT be able to get one if You
Wait to the last Minute to Order!
14 -- Old FC1000/1, FC1000/2, and FC1250/30/1500 Machines sometimes had a "Quick-Dump"
Valve between Mac Air Valve and Brake. These were added to some Machines to try to
improve Brake Speed. They Do Not Work, and Actually cause nothing but Problems!
Take It Off, And Throw It Away!
15 -- Older Machines had the Air-Line Hoses go from the Brake Mac Valve, to nearest side air-port
of Brake, then looped from this side over to the air-port on other side of Brake.
This tended to cause the air to rush in & out the one side of Brake, and caused the Disk to
Bind-Up & Wear Unevenly inside the Brake Assembly.
We Replumb As Follows;
--- Fit a 3/4" Short Pipe out of Brake Mac Valve
--- Fit a 3/4" T on the end of it
--- Add 3/4" to 1/2" Reducer Bushings to each end of T
--- Add the 1/2" Hose-Barbs to each Bushing
--- Add 2 EQUAL-LENGTH 1/2" Air-Hoses to the 2 Brake Air-Ports
This way the air goes in & out equally out of Both Sides of the Brake,
and the Friction Disk does not Tilt & Bind. Brake Stops Better and Lasts Longer.
13 -- Rebuild the Brake and Clutch Assemblies.
Friction Disks become Worn, Seals Leak, Splin-Hubs on Crankshaft become Worn, Etc.
Friction Disks are now made of a Very Hard Ceramic Material that is Harder that the Steel & Iron
Pressure Plates & Drive-Rings that they Push-Against. Over time, these Parts become very
Worn & Grooved, along with Drive-Studs and other Parts, and it is no longer Economical to
Rebuild Brake Assemblies. We Now Stock Kelvar-Disks that Do Not Eat the Metal Parts!
Clutches can usually be Rebuilt, but Brake action is Quite Critical, and it is often Better &
Cheaper to Replace with a New Brake Assembly. Our Brakes are also the Latest-Types with the
Stroke-Limiter Option Added, which Improves Brake Operation Speed, Improves Brake Life,
and is also Quieter.
Sticking Valves not only Cause Ram-Downs, but also other Punching Problems like
"Clutch & Brake Fight" which is when BOTH Valves are on at the SAME TIME!
This causes Tremendous Clutch & Brake Wear, but can also
BREAK Your Press-Drive Crankshaft!
Do Not Ignore Sticking Valves, Replace Them!
To check Poppit-Valve, With the Machine Off & Flywheel Not Turning,
Manually Depress the Actuator on the Clutch MAC Valve to put Air on the Clutch.
Strippit used Recessed Actuators which means you will need a small Screwdriver to push it in. Valves Bought from Machine Technologies have a External Actuator which is Much Easier to Use.
Clutch should Engage Strongly and Hold-In with No Air Leaking Out!
If Air is Rushing-Out around the Muffler, it is probably a Bad Poppit Valve.
If Air is Rushing-Out around Outside Diameter of Clutch, it is probably Bad Clutch Seals.
11 -- Make sure Air Mufflers are Not Clogged or causing Restrictions.
On FC1000/3 Machines, I take the 2 Tan-Color Filters Elements Out of Each of the 2
Reclassifiers on the Brake & Clutch Exhausts, as I have found them to Cause Valve Actuation
Problems, which makes Slow & Erratic & Intermittent Clutch & Brake Operation.
Throw the 4 Elements Away,
or Someone will put them Back-In, and your Problem will Resurface in the Future!
12 -- Replace BOTH the Clutch AND the Brake Mac Valves!!! These Are Very Critical !!!
This is a Leading Cause of Ram-Downs, and is where I Start my Troubleshooting!
Sticking-Valves also Causes the "Start-Up" Problems where you Punch & Clear Ram-Downs
a few time until it will Punch OK. This Condition will Break Your Crankshaft Sooner or Later.
Strippit Repair Parts & Strippit Service
Machine Technologies Co.
Phone 704-233-5229
We Keep The
#17441-000 Magnets
and
#18122-000 Sensors
In-Stock!
These are Used for Brake-On,
Clutch-Dump,
Ram-Up,
and
Tool-Door Sensing
Flywheel Bearings
We Recently had 1 of our Good Customers Call Us, and Say
"Our Flywheel Is Coming Off The Machine!"
Now, We had Told them that their Flywheel Bearings were Bad for the Last Several Years, But they Just Would Not Change them! Finally, the Bearings Seized-Up, and Sheared All the Retaining Ring Bolts, allowing the Flywheel & Clutch to Walk-Off the Crankshaft! The only thing Keeping it on was the Prog-Move Air Cylinder, which was Rapidly being Eaten-Up by the Flywheel.
We Repaired this Machine, But the Repairs were Much More Extensive, and Expensive, than if they had let us Repair Machine Before Bearings Failed Completely!
If your Flywheel Bearings are making a Loud "Roaring" Noise, and "Rumbles", and the Frame "Vibrates" as it Coasts to a Stop, Your Bearings are Bad! Replace Them!
We can put together a Parts-Kit with the Proper Seals, Bearings, Shim, Grease, and Instructions on how we Repair this Problem.
FC750 X-Axis Servo Motor Failures
When I Started "Tech Support" at Strippit, 1 Task I performed was Analyzing Machine Failures. I noticed a lot of X-Axis Servo Motors (#17497-000) were Failing on FC750 & FC750/2 Machines. This seemed Very Odd, as the Exact Same Servo Motor & Servo Drive was used on the Larger & Heavier FC1000/2 Machine. But FC1000/2 Machines did Not Fail the Servo Motors anywhere near the Hi-Rate that FC750's did.
I talked to Engineering about this Problem, Their Solution was to Switch to the
More-Powerful, but Same Physical-Size, FC1000/3 T-Axis Motor (#19463-000) that would Bolt Right-In to the FC750's X-Axis. But this did Not Solve the Problem!
The Cause was quite Simple. A simple Engineering Design Flaw on this Model Machine.
The Y-Axis Carriage, which holds the Complete X-Axis Assembly, is made from a 2"x10"x7' long Obround Steel Pipe. The Air-Hose from the Servo-Blower is Plumbed into the Bottom of the Pipe to Pressurize it. A 1 1/4" Hole is Bored into the Top of the Pipe right under the Air-Input Port on the X-Motor, with a Rubber-Foam "Donut" squeezed between them to Seal the Air-Flow.
The Problem is, the Carriage Pipe Is Full Of Holes, and Both Ends are Open!
Look at the Line of 1-Inch Holes in the First Picture below. There Is No Air-Pressure to Feed the Servo Motor! Strippit & Customers would Stuff Rubber Foam or Tape-Up the Holes, but is would Soon Rot & Melt away from Oil & Time. Then the Motor would Overheat, the Armature would Melt, and the Magnets would Delaminate from the Magnet-Shell. And, You Got to Buy a New Servo Motor!
The End of a a Original FC750
Y-Axis,
with the X-Servo Motor Mounted to it.
Notice all the 1 Inch
Holes Bored into it!
The Ends of the
Y-Carriage Pipe are
Open Too!
No Cooling Air Pressure to the Motor!
Below are 3 Pictures on how I Modified my FC750 to Fix This Problem Once and for all!
The Idea is to Plumb the Air-Hose Directly into the Motor's Air-Input Port,
like it was done on Most other Strippit Machines, like on the FC1000/2 Machine.
1 - Remove the Air-Switch, as it will be in the way of the Wire-Box on Side of Motor.
2 - Unwire the Motor. Unbolt the Motor-End of the Coupling. Remove the Motor, and
Rotate it 90 Degrees so that the Air-Input Port is Facing the Front of the Machine.
3 - Bolt the Motor Back to the Mount. Bolt up the Coupling.
4 - Rotate the Resolver Feedback Package so the Cable can be easily attached.
5 - Make a New Flex Conduit about 4.5 inches longer that old Conduit. There should
be enough slack to pull the Motors wires through the New longer Conduit.
Reinstall the Conduit and Motor wires to the Wire-Box on side of Motor.
6 - Drill a New mounting hole at end of Carriage, where it is convenient to Mount and
Reattach the Air-Switch Wires.
7 - A 1.25" Plastic Street-Elbow was screwed into the Air-Port of Motor. Then a
Threaded 1.25" Plastic Pipe was screwed into Elbow. A 1.5" Plastic Pipe was
Epoxied over it. A new 2.5" Flex Air Hose was Attached over it with a hose clamp.
8 - Replumb your Air Switches, and you should be back in Business. We now have a
VERY Strong Air-Flow coming out of the Front of Motor, and Motor stays Cold!
9 - Note, your Axis Cover will no longer fit, unless you make a cutout for it.
It is actually better to leave Cover Off Machine, as you can now do proper Oiling of
the Ballscrew and Thomson Bars, and you can now easily Inspect all the Axis and
No-Punch Switches for Proper Operation. Inspect them Regularly!
In These 3 Photos,
The Cure for
Overheating
FC750 X-Motors!
It took me about
4 Hours
of Work in My Shop.
It is not as Elegant as
I would like,
But I had to work
with-in the Original design.
But it is a Good
Permanent Fix of the
Original Strippit
Miss-Design.
Motor now Runs-Cold
on this Machine.
Preventing Servo Motor Failures
1 -- Heat is the Major cause of Motor Failures, Check that Servo Blower Fan is Running.
2 -- Check that Air Filter is Not Plugged-Up with Dirt, they Usually Are! Replace it!
3 -- Check that Air Hoses are Not Rotted Out and Leaking Air.
4 -- Feel that Strong Air-Flow is coming out of X & Y Motors. T is usually not cooled.
5 -- A Stuck-Punch or a Slug Pop-Up can Jam & Stalled-Out a Motor, which can then
Burn-Out in a Minute or 2 if Machine Operator does Not Shut-Off Machine and
Correct Quickly! Good Punch & Die Tooling is Critical! Improper Length & Height
Adjustments, Dull Punch & Dies, Wrong Die Clearances will All Cause Punch
Stripping and Slug-Pup-Up Problems, which lead to Many other Problems.
6 -- Axis Slow-Down and Limit Switches that are Not-Working or are Misadjusted,
can allow a Incorrect Part-Program or Operator-Command to cause Axis to Hit it's
End-of-Travel, and Stall & Burn-Out Motor like the above Condition.
I have seen Shops try to run Bigger-Sheets by Defeating these Switches, these
same Shops then Wonder why they Break Ballscrews, Burn-Out Motors, Etc.
7 -- Check and Replace Motor Brushes Before they Wear-Out and Ruin Commutator.
8 -- Servo Motors are Relatively Fragile. Make sure that Guard-Rails are installed
around Machine so that Work Tables and Lift-Trucks do not Hit and Break Motors.
When Shipping Motors, pack in bubble-wrap & strong boxes to Prevent Damage.
Ignore the Above Recommendations at YOUR Peril!
Servo Motor Brush Types
A Great way to Ruin your Servo Motors, is to Never Check Brushes for Wear,
and to Not Install New Brushes when they are Worn-Out.
We Stock Rebuilt Servo Motors for Those Shops that Do Not Change Motor Brushes!
I Recommend Checking X and T Axis Motor Brushes every 12 Months,
and Checking the Y-Axis Motor Brushes every 6 Months.
If Brushes seem to be Wearing-Out Too Fast, Check more Often,
as perhaps Commutator is Worn, and is Wearing-Out Brushes Too-Fast.
If Commutator is Worn, Motor will Need to be Rebuilt to Fix this Problem.
We Can Rebuild Your Old Servo Motors.
Replace Brushes when Half the Length is Worn Off.
Do Not let them get Too Short, or You Risk Ruining your Expensive Servo Motor!
All CNC HECC80 Control Strippit Machines used following 3 Types of Motor Brush.
#17506-000
"Small Brush"
.25" Thick
x .5" Wide
x .626" Long
#17788-000 "Large Brush"
.25" Thick x .75" Wide x .75" Long
#19463-100 Type "C" Brush,
used for All HECC80 Control FC1000/3 Machines,
and some
FC1500/45 Machines.
.25" Thick x
1.0" Wide x .875" Long
The Following is a Servo-Motor and Brush Usage Chart
for NC & CNC HECC80 Control Strippit Machines;
FC750 & FC750/2 Machines
X- Axis uses #17497-000 Motor using 4 - #17506-000 Brushes
Y- Axis uses #17360-000 Motor using 6 - #17788-000 Brushes
FC1000/1 & FC1000/2 Machines
X - Axis uses #17497-000 Motor using 4 - #17506-000 Brushes
Y - Axis uses #17360-000 Motor using 6 - #17788-000 Brushes
T - Axis uses #17539-000 Motor using 4 - #17506-000 Brushes
FC1230/30/1500 & FC1250/30/1500 LaserTool
X - Axis uses #17538-000 Motor using 6 - #17788-000 Brushes
Y - Axis uses #17360-000 Motor using 6 - #17788-000 Brushes
T - Axis with 20-Station Turret uses #17539-000 Motor using 4 - #17506-000 Brushes
T - Axis with 33-Station Turret uses #19463-000 Motor using 4 - #19463-100 Brushes
FC1250/45, FC1250/45/72, FC1250/30, FC51/30, FC51/40
X - Axis uses #17538-000 Motor using 6 - #17788-000 Brushes
Y - Axis uses #17360-000 Motor using 6 - #17788-000 Brushes
T - Axis uses #17510-000 Motor using 8 - #17506-000 Brushes
FC1000/3 HECC80 Control, Not Fanuc Control FC1000/3
X - Axis uses #19462-000 Motor using 4 - #19463-100 Brushes
Y - Axis uses #19399-000 Motor using 4 - #19463-100 Brushes
T - Axis uses #19463-000 Motor using 4 - #19463-100 Brushes
FC1500/45
X - Axis uses #19800-000 Motor using 4 - #19463-100 Brushes
Y - Axis uses #800162-000 Motor using 4 - #19463-100 Brushes
T - Axis uses #17510-000 Motor using 8 - #17506-000 Brushes
Note, Some FC750, FC750/2, FC1000/1, and FC1000/2 Machines had a FC1000/3
#19463-000 T-Axis Motor Installed on their X-Axis in a Mistaken Attempt to Increase Reliability. These Motors are easy to Identify, as the Brush-Covers are a
Steel-Rectangle Cover, and Not the Normal Round-Plastic Cover.
These Motors use 4 - #19463-100 Brushes.
Machine Technologies Stocks these 3 Motor Brush Types,
and the 3 Hard-To-Find Round Plastic Brush-Covers,
and All the Listed Servo Motors above.
Servo Motor Brush-Caps
Brush Caps are Easily Chipped and Broken by Careless Removal with a Screwdriver.
Make a Tool out of Thin Sheetmetal that Fits your Brush-Caps to Avoid Breakage.
"Small-Disk" Type Brush Caps that are used
with Most New-Style Motors that use the
"Small" #17506-000 Brushes.
3/4" Wide with Threads on the Outer-Diameter
"Small-Cup" Type Brush Caps that are used
with an Old-Style Motor that use the "Small" #17506-000 Brushes. Cup-Shaped, 13/16" Wide
with Threads on the Inner-Diameter of the Cup.
"Large-Disk" Type Brush Caps that are used
with Most Motors that use the "Large"
#17788-000 Brushes.
7/8" Wide with Threads on the Outer-Diameter
Ram-Seal Replacement
If your Strippit Machine has a Mechanical Press-Drive (Flywheel & Crankshaft) and it is Weeping or Gushing Lube Oil out around the Punch-Ram onto the Tooling and Upper Turret, you probably need a New Ram-Seal. As the Seals Age, they become Brittle, then Crack or even Break into Pieces, allowing Lube Oil to Leak-Out.
Ram-Seal is not real hard to replace, but it will take several hours. You have to remove several Tool Lifters to get room to work under Ram, Remove the Retaining-Ring and Seal, Carefully Jack-In New Seal using Different Length Screws & Retaining-Ring, all Done while Laying on a Piece of Cardboard up on the Machine's Tables in Front of the Ram.
We Stock a Kit with the New Ram-Seal, New Socket-Head Cap Screws, and Instructions.
For the 30-Ton Machines like FC1000/1, FC1000/2, FC1000/3, FC1000S, FC1000SXP, FC1250S, FC1250SXP, FC1250/30/1500, & FC1250/45 Series, Order Part #17534-000.
For FC750 and FC750/2 Machines, Order Part #18224-000. We Stock Both of these Seals!
