Strippit  FC750  &  FC750/2
Turret-Drive  Fixes
1  --  Remove all the Sheetmetal around  Turret  and  Turret Drive Shaft System,  and  Throw it in your Scrap Metal Dumpster where it Belongs!
Look Closely at the 4 Photos Above!

This Sheetmetal is mainly Cosmetic,  and will only be in your way.   Get Rid of it!

Strippit finally woke up themselves,  and Strippit Removed this Cosmetic Sheetmetal that was always in the way of service people,  on the Newer FC750/2 Machines.

2  --  Take apart Entire Turret Drive System.    Leave the Motor & Gearbox,  and Shaft
Pillow-Blocks on Mounting-Plate,  but take all other parts off.   Clutch & Brake Unit,  Drive-Shaft,  Sprockets,  Chains,  and the  2 Turret Sub-Assemblies.    Make a Dowel Pin Puller for use in removing the 2 Sub-Assemblies.   See my  "Strippit Dowel Pin"  Page.

3  --  Pull Gears and Sprockets off 2 Sub-Assemblies.   The Keys are usually Worn or in Broken-Pieces from  "Turret Crashes"  caused when Your Operator puts a Too-Long Tool in Turret  (because he Never uses the  "Strippit Go No-Go Tool Gage"  Does he?)
and Tool Crashes into Ram when Turret Rotates!

Make Custom  .002" Oversize Keys on a Surface Grinder,  and Press-Them-In,  so they are Extremely Tight.    If Not Very Tight,  you will already be adding Positioning  "Slop"  into your Drive System.    Replace Sub-Assemblies back on to Machine.

4  --  Replace the Clutch / Brake unit with a Brand New Unit!!!
While Rebuild Kits are Available,  I have found rebuilding these Units to be So Difficult, that I will Not do it anymore.   I only will use New Units now,  and so should you. 
Make sure the Keys on Clutch / Brake are Very Tight also!
This page was last updated: February 3, 2023
Our Small

We keep these

The Old FC750
  Shotpin Sensor

This Sensor is
Not used on the  FC750/2  Machine!

Our New
Shotpin Sensor
for the

The Strippit FC750 & FC750/2 Turret Punch Machines with HECC80 Controls were built from 1979 to 1986.   These were Compact Machines,  with  Control &  Frame &  Table Assemblies all Built-Together in a Easy to Move & Install 1 Piece Machine. 
They were also Accurate,  very Easy to Run,  and  Inexpensive. 
This made them Popular,  and about 200 of this Model Machines were built.

But they all have 1 Problem.    Bad Turret Positioning.

The FC750 Machine was Strippit's  "Lower Cost Entry Machine".
So to save money,  Strippit did Not use a Servo-Drive for Turret-Drive System like on
the FC1000/2 Machine.   They went Backwards In-Time,  and used a Mechanical
Clutch & Brake System from the Old 1969 FC30/30 Machines.

This was Very Typical Strippit  (and  American,  I am Very Sad to Say) 
MBA-Management Thinking.    Building Machines to a Marketing  "Price Point",
Instead of building  The Very Best Machines you can to Develop a Valuable Reputation
in the Marketplace as the  "Best"  Machine Manufacturer.

This Bad Turret Positioning Causes;
---  Shotpins to  "Bang & Clunk"  as they Pull Turret to go into Shotpin Bushings
---  Shotpins to Miss the Shotpin Bushing Completely,  Causing  "Shotpin Timeout"
     Hold-Errors which Stops Part-Production,  and Drives your Machine Operator Crazy!
---  Shotpins Breaking from Stress of Pulling-Turret and Banging into Shotpin Bushings
This is a Broken   
FC750  Shotpin
Not to be Confused with a
FC750/2  Shotpin, Which is a
Different Part!

We have a few 
Shotpins and Seals  In-Stock!
The Turret Drive System actually worked pretty good when new,
but it Deteriorates as it Ages until it is Unusable. 

But it Can be Rebuilt to Work Better than New,  and to be even more Durable than New.

First,  give up Your Silly Idea that you can just Change or Fix just 1 Part,  and it will be
"All Better".    Its a  Turret Drive SYSTEM,  and all Components in that  SYSTEM need
to be Right,  or  the SYSTEM will Not Function Correctly! 
Think like an Engineer,   Not a  Bean-Counter!

Second,  its going to Cost about $4000 in New Parts,  and about 2 days of work to rebuild
everything Correctly.   This is a Small Price to pay to return to good service a great little Machine.   Don't be Cheap like Strippit,  do it Right,  so you never have to do it again!

Third,  I am not going to give Explicit  "Turn This Screw"  Instructions.
I am already giving you Years of Valuable Experience for Free.
If you can't figure out how to do the work yourself,  then you need to hire me or another capable Serviceman to do the work for you.

I have been Servicing Strippit  FC750 Machines since the  Very First One
was Built in 1979,   and the Following is what I do when
I Rebuild a Turret Drive System on a Customer's Machine.
Note!   This Kit is For  FC750 Machines Only,   NOT  for  FC750/2 Machines.
FC750/2's used a Dowel-Pin Inserted in Each Shotpin with a  #17441-000  Magnet on end.   The Magnet activated  2 --  #18122-000  Sensors for the In and Out Signals. 
FC750/2  Shotpin Sensors work good,  and do not have the FC750's Problems.

15 -- Grease the 2 Pillow-Blocks Once.   Wipe off all Excess Grease around Bearings.    THEN TAKE OUT THE GREASE FITTINGS!    When Machine Malfunctions,  the first thing People do is get out the Grease Gun,  and Grease-The-Hell out of Everything,  as if this would fix anything.    In fact,  all this Excess Grease Separates over time,  and
Oil from Grease Runs-Down Shaft into the Clutch / Brake Unit,  and  Ruins-It!    
Grease Pillow-Blocks again in 5 Years or so,  Not before!

Grease the 2 Shotpins Regularly though,  every 4 to 6 Months is good.   Synthetic (RED) Grease is Best Grease to use as it is much more Time & Temperature Stable.

16 --  Adjust the 2 Flow-Control Valves that are on your Shotpin In & Out Mac Air Valve,
so that  Shotpins Travel In & Out Smoothly  with Out Hitting Hard.

17 --  On Short 1 Station Moves,  Turret will have Tendency to stop Short. 
On Long Station Moves,  Like T-Home,  Turret will tend to stop Long.   This is Normal.

Adjust T-Recognition Sensor to Balance Between these 2 Stopping-Point Extremes.

If you Rebuilt everything Correctly,  your Turret should Now 
Position,  Stop,  and  Fire-In Shotpins Better than when it was New. 

If Not,  Go Back and Analyze what is Not Working Correctly,  and Redo it Correctly!
14 --  FC750 Machines used  2 -- #400767-000 Shotpin Sensors to tell HECC80 Control when Shotpins are In or Out.  Sensors had Problems causeing them to be Unreliable;
       1 --  It is a Optical Sensor.    Grease,  Oil,  and  Dirt Accumulate on it,  causing
              Sensor to become Intermittent,  and to Eventually Stop Working.
       2 --  It Wears Out!    Over time,  the 2 Infrared-Emitter's Output Decrease on each
              Sensor,  which then becomes intermittent,  and to eventually stop working.

Typical Symptoms are  "Shotpins Timeout"  Errors,
even though the Shotpins Went  In or Out  as they were suppose to.

Because of these Problems,  We have Developed our own  "Sensor Retrofit Kit"  to replace these Unreliable Sensors,  and  it should be Installed at this Time. 
Retrofit kit is Immune to  Grease,  Oil,  and Dirt.    And it does  NOT Wear-Out over time!
Installation and Wiring Directions come with the Kit.
9  --  I Replace the  2  16-Tooth Chain-Sprockets on Shaft with 14-Tooth Sprockets.  This reduces Turret-Rotational Speed 12%  which you will Not Even Notice.    This makes a Major Improvement on Turret Positioning Accuracy,  and Wear & Tear on Drive System.

10 -- Replace Both  Blue MAC-Valves which go to Turret Clutch / Brake Unit. 
I Stock Special Hi-Wattage Type Valves which are More Consistent that Your Original Valves,  which will Improve Positioning Accuracy and Reliability.

11 --  Some Machines shipped from Factory with a small  1/4" Air-Regulator on Clutch Valve.   Some shipped with Regulator on Brake Valve.    I add a Second Air-Regulator
so  BOTH  Clutch  AND  Brake have a Regulator.    Set both Regulators to about 50 PSI.

12 --  Add a  1/2" Air-Filter above 2 Mac Valves,  and Plumb this Filtered Air-Supply through Regulators to the 2 Valves.   This keeps bits of  Dirt,  Rust,  and  Water  from causing Valves to Stick and become Inconsistent.    And Keeps Water Out of
Clutch / Brake Unit  so it does Not Rust and Lock-Up.

13 -- Some Strippit Engineer Speced a Huge  30mm Proximity Sensor for the 
"Turret Recognition Sensor"  which Counts Shotpin Bushing-Holes so CNC Control knows when to Fire-In Shotpins.    A  30mm Sensor is great for Counting
Tin-Cans going down some Conveyor-Belt,  but is Way Too-Big for this Application.

I use a Adaptor Plate,  and fit a Smaller  12mm Sensor which much more Precisely Detects the Shotpin Bushing,  and therefor the Final Turret Positioning.
8  --  Just Set-Screws hold Clutch / Brake Unit Position on Shaft,  and just Set-Screws hold Shaft Position on Bearing Pillow-Blocks.  
Over time,  these Set-Screws will Not hold Positions,  and will allow Shaft  &
Clutch / Brake Unit  to move up & down. 

To prevent this,  I add a  1.5"  Split-Shaft Locking Collar under Clutch / Brake Unit to prevent it from sliding down and losing my  
.150"  Gap over the Anti-Rotation steel-block.

Add 3 More 1.250" Collars,  2 Over & 1 Under Pillow-Blocks to Prevent Shaft from Moving up or down.   Study Photos Below Carefully,  and you can see these  3 -- 1.250" Collars on Shaft.
Machine Technologies
Can Put Together All Repair Parts Necessary
To Do This Turret Drive Rebuild Job.

Call Us With Your Needs!

Phone  704-233-5229
5  --  Unfortunately,  the Manufacture of these Units now makes Cooling-Fins  1/2" Higher than they used to.   So you will have to have a Machine Shop Mill-Off about  .200" off  Bottom-Front of Steel-Block Mounted on Turret-Drive Mounting-Plate that has Dowel-Pin
in it,  that is used to stop Clutch / Brake Unit from Rotating.

The last FC750 that I Rebuilt,  I still had to put a 45-Degree Bevel at Front Bottom of
Steel Block so the Cooling-Fins would Clear.  

Much time was spent making Sure that  Cooling-Fins would Clear Bottom of the Block,     AND  that  Clutch / Brake Anti-Rotation Tab Floated above Block about  .100"  to  .150" ! Spent the Time and get it Right!

6  --  Also have Machine Shop Mill-Off  .150"  around Top of the Block where Dowel-Pin Sticks-Up.    Clutch / Brake Unit's Tabs  MUST  "Float"  over the Steel-Block and Not  "Rest"  upon it,  and this will provide more Clearance.  
In other words,  The Notch in back of Clutch / Brake Unit Engages Dowel-Pin to keep
Unit from Rotating,  But  Must Not Rest On The Steel-Block Itself!  
When I am Reassembling System,  I put a piece of Sheetmetal under Notch so as to Maintain  .150" Gap Over Block,  then  Remove Sheetmetal Piece when Finished.
Front-View of
Clutch & Brake Unit

We Can
Provide these
and Other
Repair Parts!
7  --  The Clutch / Brake unit is made for a 1.500" Shaft.    For some Unknown (Cheapness?)  Stupid Reason,  Strippit used a  1.250" Shaft,  and then used a
Sleeve-Adaptor inside Unit to allow it to fit their Shaft.

If you really want to do a Great Rebuilding Job,  Make a New Shaft  that is  1.500"  at bottom for Clutch / Brake,  then Tapers-Down to  1.250"  for Pillow-Block Bearings and Chain-Sprockets at the top,  which will allow you to get Rid of Spacer and it's Slop,  and will also allow Easier Reassembly.    Also make the New Shaft about  1"  Longer than Original,  which will give you more Room to fit Chain-Sprockets on top.
Back-View of
Clutch & Brake Unit
to Show the
that  MUST
.100"  to  .150"
Above  Steel-Block,
Not "Rest"
On the Steel-Block!

In Your Strippit FC750 Manual, There is a Cut-Away Drawing of the Turret Clutch / Brake Unit.

At Bottom of this Unit,
There is a Coupling,
that Couples the
Clutch / Brake Unit
to the Gearbox.

This is
Item #21  in that Drawing,

This Part is Very Durable, 
but after many Years of Use,
the Coupling-Center Will become Brittle and
Break into Pieces.

We have this Part Available
When Needed.

Note!   Over Time,  Many Gearboxes Slowly Leak All their Gear Oil,
Drip by Drip,  Until the Gearbox is Empty.
Then, Your Gearbox will Slowly Grind its Gears and Bearings to Metal Dust.

Check the Oil Level Yearly,
More Often If Your Gearbox Leaks!

Fill Gearbox with a Good Grade of  90-140 S.A.E.  Weight Gear Oil,
Synthetic Gear Oil is the Best!
Chain Sprockets
The Early
FC750 Machines
had Sheetmetal  "Skirts"
all around the Machine Because
Strippit Management thought it made the Machine Look  "Pretty".

Strippit  "Management"
was Always
"Pretty Clueless".
All this Cosmetic Sheetmetal & Brackets 
& Frames Cost a Fortune.   So Strippit Quit putting Skirts-On Late FC750's 
and All FC750/2  Machines.

Strippit Painted
Bottom-Half of Machine Dark-Brown like the FC1000/3 Machines.

All this Sheetmetal Prevented Access to Machine for Maintenance & Repair,  so we Servicemen were Happy to see it go!
Photo Above and to the Left is a FC750 that We Removed & Threw-Away all the Crappy Sheetmetal that Always Prevented Proper Maintenance
and Repairs.

You can Leave-On Covers over Turret Driveshaft Area if You Wish.
I Did Not,  as this Area Needs Good Access!