Strippit FC750 Turret Fixes

Strippit FC750 & FC750/2

Turret-Drive Fixes

1 -- Remove all the Sheetmetal around the Turret and the Turret Drive Shaft System, and Throw it in your Scrap Metal Dumpster where it Belongs!

Look Closely at the Photo Above!

This Sheetmetal is mainly Cosmetic, and will only be in your way. Get Rid of it!

Strippit finally woke up themselves, and removed most of this Cosmetic Sheetmetal that was always in the way of service people, on the Newer FC750/2 Machines.

2 -- Take apart Entire Turret Drive System. Leave the Motor & Gearbox, and Shaft

Pillow-Blocks on Mounting-Plate, but take all other parts off. The Clutch & Brake Unit, the Shaft, Sprockets, Chains, and the 2 Turret Sub-Assemblies. Make a Dowel Pin Puller for use in removing the 2 Sub-Assemblies. See my "Strippit Dowel Pin" Page.

3 -- Pull Gears and Sprockets off 2 Sub-Assemblies. The Keys are usually Worn or in Broken-Pieces from "Turret Crashes" caused when Your Operator puts a Too-Long Tool in Turret (because he Never uses the "Strippit Go No-Go Tool Gage" Does he?), and it Crashes into the Ram when Turret Rotates.

Make Custom .002" Oversize Keys on a Surface Grinder, and Press-Them-In, so they are Extremely Tight. If Not Very Tight, you will already be adding Positioning "Slop" into your Drive System. Replace Sub-Assemblies back on to Machine.

4 -- Replace the Clutch / Brake unit with a Brand New Unit!!!

While Rebuild Kits are Available, I have found rebuilding these Units to be So Difficult, that I will Not do it anymore. I only will use New Units now, and so should you.

Make sure the Keys on the Clutch / Brake are Very Tight also!

This page was last updated: September 21, 2007

Our Small

Prox-Sensor &

Adaptor-Plate

Retrofit

We keep these

Parts

In-Stock!

The Old Original

#400767-000

Shotpin Sensor

Our New

Shotpin Sensor

Retrofit

The Strippit FC750 & FC750/2 Turret Punch Machines with HECC80 Controls were built from 1979 to 1986. These were Compact Machines, with the Control & Frame & Table Assemblies all Built-Together in a Easy to Move & Install 1 Piece Machine.

They were also Accurate, very Easy to Run, and Inexpensive.

This made them Popular, and about 200 of this Model Machines were built.

But they all have 1 Problem. Bad Turret Positioning.

The FC750 Machine was Strippit's "Lower Cost Entry Machine".

So to save money, Strippit did not use a Servo-Drive for the Turret-Drive System like on the FC1000/2 Machine. They went Backwards, and used a Mechanical Clutch & Brake System from the old 1970's FC30/30 Machines.

This was Very Typical Strippit (and American, I am Very Sad to Say)

MBA Management Thinking. Building Machines to a Marketing "Price Point",

Instead of building the Very Best Machines you can to Develop a Valuable Reputation

in the Marketplace as the "Best" Machine Manufacturer.

This Bad Turret Positioning Causes;

--- Shotpins to "Bang & Clunk" as they Pull Turret to go into Shotpin Bushings

--- Shotpins to Miss the Shotpin Bushing Completely, Causing "Shotpin Timeout"

Hold-Errors which Stops Part-Production, and Drives your Machine Operator Crazy!

--- Shotpins Breaking from the Stress of Pulling Turret & Banging into Shotpin Bushings

This is a Broken

#102270-000

FC750 Shotpin

Not to be Confused with a

FC750/2 Shotpin, Which is a

Different Part.

We have New

Shotpins and Seals In-Stock!

The Turret Drive System actually worked pretty good when new,

but it Deteriorates as it Ages until it is Unusable.

But it Can be Rebuilt to Work Better than New, and to be even more Durable than New.

First, give up Your Silly Idea that you can just Change or Fix just 1 Part, and it will be "All Better". Its a Turret Drive SYSTEM, and all Components in that SYSTEM need to be Right, or the SYSTEM will Not Function Correctly!

Think like an Engineer, Not a Bean-Counter!

Second, its going to Cost about $3000 in New Parts, and about 2 days of work to rebuild everything Correctly. This is a Small Price to pay to return to good service a great little Machine. Don't be Cheap like Strippit, do it Right, and you will never have to do it again!

Third, I am not going to give Explicit "Turn This Screw" Instructions.

I am already giving you Years of Valuable Experience for Free.

If you can't figure out how to do the work yourself, then you need to hire me or another capable Serviceman to do the work for you.

I have been Servicing Strippit FC750 Machines since the Very First One was Built

in 1979, and the Following is what I do when I Rebuild a Turret Drive System on a Customer's Machine.

Note! This Kit is For FC750 Machines Only, NOT for FC750/2 Machines.

FC750/2's used a Dowel-Pin Inserted in to Each Shotpin with a #17441-000 Magnet on the end. The Magnet activated 2 -- #18122-000 Sensors for the In and Out Signals.

The FC750/2 Shotpin Sensors work good, and do not have the FC750's Problems.

15 -- Grease the 2 Pillow-Blocks Once. Wipe off all the Excess Grease around the Bearings. THEN TAKE OUT THE GREASE FITTINGS! When Machine Malfunctions, the first thing People do is get out the Grease Gun, and Grease-The-Hell out of Everything, as if this would fix anything. In fact, all this Excess Grease Separates over time, and the Oil in it Runs-Down the Shaft into the Clutch / Brake Unit, and Ruins It! Grease Pillow-Blocks again in 5 Years or so, not before!

Grease the 2 Shotpins Regularly though, every 4 to 6 Months is good. Synthetic (RED) Grease is the Best Grease to use as it is much more Time & Temperature Stable.

16 -- Adjust the 2 Flow-Control Valves that are on your Shotpin In & Out Mac Air Valve, so that the Shotpins Travel In & Out Smoothly with Out Hitting Hard.

17 -- On Short 1 Station Moves, Turret will have the tendency to stop Short.

On Long Station Moves, Like T-Home, Turret will tend to stop Long. This is Normal.

Adjust T-Recognition Sensor to Balance Between these 2 Stopping-Point Extremes.

If you Rebuilt everything Correctly, your Turret should Now

Position, Stop, and Fire-In the Shotpins Better than when it was New.

If Not, Go Back and Analyze what is Not Working Correctly, and Redo it Correctly!

14 -- FC750 Machines used 2 -- #400767-000 Shotpin Sensors to tell the HECC80 Control when the Shotpins are In or Out. But these Sensors had 2 Problems which cause them to be Unreliable;

1 -- It is a Optical Sensor. Grease, Oil, and Dirt Accumulate on it, causing the

Sensor to become Intermittent, and to Eventually Stop Working.

2 -- It Wears Out! Over time, the 2 Infrared-Emitter's Output Decrease on each

Sensor, which then becomes intermittent, and to eventually stop working.

Typical Symptoms are "Shotpins Timeout" Errors,

even though the Shotpins Went In or Out as they were suppose to.

Because of these Problems, We have Developed our own "Sensor Retrofit Kit" to replace these Unreliable Sensors, and it should be Installed at this Time.

Retrofit kit is Immune to Grease, Oil , and Dirt. And it does NOT Wear-Out over time!

Installation and wiring directions come with the Kit.

9 -- I Replace the 2 16-Tooth Chain-Sprockets on the Shaft with 14-Tooth Sprockets. This reduces the Turret-Rotational Speed 12% which you will Not Even Notice.

But this has a Major Improvement on the Turret Positioning Accuracy, and the Wear & Tear on the Drive System.

10 -- Replace Both Blue MAC Valves which go to Turret Clutch / Brake Unit.

I Stock Special Hi-Wattage Type Valves which are More Consistent that Your Original Valves, which will Improve Positioning Accuracy and Reliability.

11 -- Some Machines shipped from Factory with a small 1/4" Air-Regulator on the Clutch valve. Some shipped with the Regulator on the Brake valve.

I add a Second Air-Regulator so that Both the Clutch AND the Brake have a Regulator.

Set both Regulators to about 50 PSI.

12 -- Add a 1/2" Air-Filter above the 2 Mac Valves, and Plumb this Filtered Air-Supply through the Regulators to the 2 Valves. This keeps bits of Dirt, Rust, and Water from causing Valves to Stick and becoming Inconsistent. And Keeps Water Out of

Clutch / Brake Unit so it does Not Rust and Lock-Up.

13 -- Some Strippit Engineer Speced a Huge 30mm Proximity Sensor for the

"Turret Recognition Sensor" which Counts the Shotpin Bushing-Holes so the CNC Control knows when to Fire-In the Shotpins. A 30mm Sensor is great for Counting

Tin-Cans going down some conveyor belt, but is Way Too-Big for this Application.

I use a Adaptor Plate, and fit a Smaller 12mm Sensor which much more Precisely Detects the Shotpin Bushing, and therefor the Final Turret Positioning.

8 -- Just Set-Screws hold the Clutch / Brake Unit Position on Shaft, and just

Set-Screws hold Shaft Position on Bearing Pillow-Blocks. Over time, these Set-Screws will Not hold Positions, and will allow Shaft & Clutch / Brake Unit to move up & down.

To prevent this, I add a 1.5" Split Shaft Locking Collar under Clutch / Brake Unit to prevent it from sliding down and losing my

.150" Gap over the Anti-Rotation steel-block.

And 3 More 1.250" Collars, 2 Over & 1 Under Pillow-Blocks to Prevent Shaft from Moving up or down.

Study Photos Below Carefully, and you can See these 3 - 1.250" Collars on Shaft.

Machine Technologies

Can Put Together All The Repair Parts Necessary

To Do This Turret Drive Rebuild Job.

Call Us With Your Needs!

Phone 704-233-5229

Fax 704-233-5405

5 -- Unfortunately, the Manufacture of these Units now makes the Cooling-Fins 1/2" Higher than they used to. So you will have to have a Machine Shop Mill-Off about .200" off the Bottom-Front of the Steel-Block Mounted on the Turret-Drive Mounting-Plate that has the Dowel-Pin in it, that is used to stop Clutch / Brake Unit from Rotating.

The last FC750 that I Rebuilt, I still had to put a 45-Degree Bevel at the Front Bottom of the Steel Block so the Cooling-Fins would Clear.

Much time was spent making Sure that the

Cooling-Fins would Clear the Bottom of the Block,

AND

that the Clutch / Brake Anti-Rotation Tab Floated above the Block about .100" to .150". Spent the Time and get it Right!

6 -- Also have the Machine Shop Mill-Off .150" around the Top of the Block where the Dowel-Pin Sticks-Up. The Clutch / Brake Unit's Tabs must "Float" over the

Steel-Block and Not "Rest" upon it, and this will provide more Clearance.

In other words, The Notch in back of the Clutch / Brake Unit Engages Dowel-Pin to keep Unit from Rotating, But Must Not Rest on to the Steel-Block Itself!

When I am Reassembling System, I put a piece of Sheetmetal under Notch so as to Maintain .150" Gap Over Block, then Remove the Sheetmetal Piece when Finished.

Front-View of

New

#18307-000

Turret-Drive

Clutch & Brake Unit

We Can

Provide these

and Other

Turret-Drive

Repair Parts!

7 -- The Clutch / Brake unit is made for a 1.500" Shaft. For some Unknown (Cheapness?) Stupid Reason, Strippit used a 1.250" Shaft, and then used a

Sleeve-Adaptor inside Unit to allow it to fit their Shaft.

If you really want to do a Great Rebuilding Job, Make a New Shaft that is 1.500" at bottom for Clutch / Brake, then Necks-Down to 1.250" for the Pillow-Block Bearings and the Chain-Sprockets at the top, which will allow you to get Rid of the Spacer and it's Slop, and will also allow Easier Reassembly. Also make New Shaft about 1" Longer than Original, which will give you more Room to fit Chain-Sprockets on top.