2 --- Make sure a 8 foot Ground Rod is Installed & Attached Tightly to the Machine's
Ground-Strap!
3 --- Check the Internal Control A.C. Voltage. This is Very Important!!!
It should be about 115 to 125 V.A.C., if it is Higher or Lower, have a Good
Technician Change the Transformer-Taps (in the Servo Cabinet) to Fix it!
The Purchasing Dept. at Strippit bought some Transformers (To Save Money?) that Did Not have the Standard Plus & Minus Taps that we use to Correct High or Low Voltages.
Some Used Machines that I have worked-on were Installed where the Incoming A.C. Voltage was Only 208 (Not the 230VAC Machine was Wired for) and the Control A.C. Voltage was only 101 Volts A.C., Way Too Low! And the Transformer Did Not have the Voltage Adjustment Taps to Fix the Low Voltage.
Customers Reported that Machine Always had Odd Intermittent Control Problems.
We Changed the Step-Down Transformer in the Control for a New Transformer with the Proper Taps for their Voltage. This gave us the Correct 120 Volts A.C. Control Voltage, and the Intermittent Control Problems All Went Away.
4 --- Locate All Welding Machines Far From All CNC Machines!
Especially Hi-Frequency TIG-Welders!
They Make All Kinds of Electrical-Noise That Causes Intermittent Control Problems
and Random Electronic Failures. Keep Them Far From Your Strippit Machines!
Installing a 8 foot Ground Rod on EVERY Welding Machine also sometimes helps.
5 --- Arcing CRT-Monitors Displays, and Crashing the NO-Punch Zone Sensor can disrupt
the 12 volts to Bubble Board, and cause Problems. We sometimes Modify Control
Wiring and add a second 12 volt Power Supply for these Functions, but this is tricky
work to be done by a very Experienced Technician, or you risk Damaging Control.
We also sometime Add the "CRT Isolator Board" Underneath the CRT-Cage to
Isolate Arcing Electrical Interference from the Control Cardcage.
More information on this can be seen on "HECC80/30x Boards Types".
6 --- Do Not allow Too-Many Old Part-Programs to Accumulate in Memory!
Delete Old Programs to keep Total to 40 or so, and always under 60.
You can Clear Them ALL Out using DELETE *.*
7--- Make sure Program-Names are Always in Capital-Letters, or the Control will
make Nonsense-Files out of them, which are very Difficult to Remove.
8 --- The Front Panel Controller Board is in Slot #7, and has Ribbon-Cables going to it's
2 Connectors. The Inside Ribbon-Cable Rubs against the Sharp Backside of the
Bubble Board in Slot #6, and sometimes can Short-Circuit to it,
and Damaging Both Boards!
Take a Roll of Black Electrical Tape, and Carefully Tape Around this Cable, Starting
at the Inside-Connector, and going Back about 4 Inches on the Cable to protect it
from the Sharp Pins on the Back of Bubble Board.
10 -- Machine Technologies has Modifications that help Bubble Board Reliability.
Send your Board-In, and we can do these Changes in Only 1 to 2 days!
11 -- I sometime fit a In-Line Fuse-Holder with a 1.0 Amp. Fast-Blow Fuse to Feed the
12VDC to 3LTB and 4LTB which Powers some of the Machine Switches. This way,
if you "Crash" a No-Punch Zone Sensor, you will Blow the Fuse, and Protect Both
the Power Supply and the Bubble Board from Failures. This work needs to be done
by a Good Technician as there are some wiring variations from Machine to Machine.
12 -- Sometimes the LH Power Supply will Completely Fail, Control Shuts-Off , and has
a "Red-LED Fault Light ON" on the Monitor Board.
Usually the 12 VDC section goes Bad, but there are other Failure Modes.
Other times, the Supplies will just "Drift" and Not Stay at the Set-Voltage.
This will also cause Intermittent Problems, and "Drifting" Supplies Must Be
Replaced! New LH Supplies are No longer Available, as the LH Company No
longer Exists. However, We Do Keep Rebuilt LH Power Supplies In-Stock!