Strippit  Workclamp-Assemblies
and  Workclamp  Repair-Parts

Machine Technologies Specializes In Repair Parts & Service
For Strippit HECC80 Control CNC Turret Punch Press Machines
We Carry a Complete-Line of Strippit Workclamps
and Workclamp Repair-Parts for the Following
6 Machine Groups.
Call for
Complete Workclamp-Assemblies
Workclamp Repair-Part
Pricing & Availability.

Phone:  704-233-5229
This page was last updated: January 31, 2023
Standard Strippit Original Workclamps have a Machined
"Knife-Edge"  Upper Jaw that does Not hold Part-Sheets very well.

We Stock and Recommend
"Carbide-Tooth  Upper-Jaws"
that  Hold  3 Times  Better
than  Original  Strippit  "Knife-Edge"  Type.

Carbide-Teeth Jaws  Especially Work Well on  Hard-to-Hold
Large  &  Thick Steel  &  Stainless-Steel  Sheets,
which tend to   "Pull-Out"  of  Standard Workclamp Jaws.

How Many More Big Sheets of Expensive Metal Do You Want To Waste?

We also can Provide
New,  Used,  and  Rebuilt  Complete  Workclamp Assemblies  in both
Standard-Long  Workclamps
Short-Type  Workclamps.

Short-Workclamps  Gage-Sheets  at   0.750" from Carriage
so allow  9 inch Wider Part-Sheets in the Y-Axis  on
FC1000/1,  FC1000/2,  FC1000/3  can hold Standard  48 inch Wide-Sheets
and   FC750  &  FC750/2  can hold  39 inch Wide-Sheets.

And Allow  10.5" Wider Part-Sheets on  FC1250/30/1500 Machines
so they can now Hold  60 inch Wide-Sheets.


FC1250/30/1500- LaserTool
Blanking Center



DiAcro QCT-20

Workclamp Lengths
Y-Axis Zeroing.

For the  FC750,  FC1000/1,  FC1000/2,  FC1000/3,  FC1250/45,  FC1250/30/1500,
R  &  H Series,  S Series,  and  Cap1000 Type Workclamps,   Strippit has  NEVER
Manufactured Workclamps  or  Workclamp Bodies to  Any  Particular  Length!

When Building a New Machine,  Strippit would take a Pair of Workclamps with Upper & Lower Jaws Removed and Clamp them in a Special-Jig holding them Back to Back Pointing Upward in a Large Surface Grinder.   Then Grind 4 Ends of  2 Workclamp
Bodies so they were  Same Exact Length  and  did Not Care what this Length was.
Just that they were the Same Length.   This would insure that Work Piece Part was
held Straight and Not Cocked Out-Of-Square by Different Length Workclamps.

Note,  Whenever Just 1 Workclamp or Workclamp Body is Replaced,  You MUST Grind Both Workclamps to Same Length  or  your Parts will be Out-Of-Square on Machine.
This is Minimized if you Replace Both Workclamps at the Same time,  as Length of 2 Replacements will Probably be Close,  but Not Perfect.   You can also try to Grind the Longer Workclamp Body to match Shorter Workclamp body.
It's Away's Best to Grind them to Same Length,  and then  Rezero Y-Axis.

Workclamps were then Reassembled,  Put back on Machine and Spread Apart 3 Feet
or so.    A Piece of Metal was put into Clamps and then you Punched a Hole between
Workclamps with  2x2 Inch Notch-Tool  3 Inches  (Y 3.000)  from  Edge of Sheet.
With the 1 inch Offset from Center-Line of  2x2" Tool,  you should have a  
2.000" dimension from Punched Hole to Sheet Edge.
If Not,   You Need to  "Zero"  the  Y-Axis Home Dimension.

Also Note,  Every Time  you  Un-Bolt  &  Remove a   Axis Servo Motor,   Ballscrew,
Ballscrew-Coupling,   Resolver Feedback Package,   Resolver-Coupling,  Etc.,
Your Axis will  Need  to be  "ReZeroed"  again!


On  HECC80  &  "A"  Control Machines
you Adjust  Y-Axis Resolver inside Feedback Package on the End of Servo Motor.
I do this the Following Way.    Say your Measured Dimension was  1.988  instead of  expected 2.000  (we will assume that your Y-Ballscrew is Tight with No-Slop in it).
This means that the  Part  went In   .012"  Too Far.

So using a  1 Inch Dial Indicator mounted on a Magnetic Base,  With
Machine-On  &  Holding Axis Position,  put  Dial Indicator-End against the Y Carriage.   
Now take Cover-Plate off End of  Feedback Package, 
Loosen  2 Screw-Keepers holding the Resolver  and  Carefully Turn Resolver Slowly.  
Y-Axis  will  Move  &  Track  Movement of  Resolver Rotation.   
Watching  Dial IndicatorTurn Resolver until  Y-Axis  Moves-Out  .012".
Tighten 2 Screws.    Not Too-Tight  or  you will  Strip-Out  Small Screw Threads!
Now Punch another Test Hole to Check if you Adjusted Correctly.


On the Above Types of Strippit Machines with  Fanuc Controls,  "Zeroing"  is Accomplished by changing  Y-Axis Offset Number  in  Control's Parameters.
See your Strippit Manuals for  Parameter Location  and  Procedure for Changing
Parameter Offset Number,  as it Varies with  Fanuc Control  &  Machine Model  Type.


On  S-Series of Machines,  Strippit finally got a Little Smarter.   S-Type Workclamps have a  Gage-Block  that Sticks Out from Workclamp Body.   So if 1 Workclamp is "Longer"  than the Other,  you can Unbolt Gage-Block from Longest Workclamp and
Grind Block Shorter to Match Total Overall Length of Shorter Clamp.
Then Punch a Test Hole and Change Offset Parameter,  if Necessary.


Again,  As Workclamps are  NOT  Manufactured to any Particular Length,
Above Procedures  MUST  be Performed  Whenever a  Workclamp  or
Workclamp-Body  Repair Part  is  Replaced!

CAUTION!!!        CAUTION!!!        CAUTION!!!
When Adjusting Resolver Feedback Package with the Machine-On,
A Loose Connection  or a  Broken-Wire  could Cause the Axis to
"Oscillate"  or  "Run-Away"  at  Hi-Speed!
Use  Extreme  Caution!!!
Always Keep Your Hands Away from ANY Point Where
Y-Carriage Movement Could  "Pinch"  Your Hands,
As  Extreme Injury  Could Result!!!

Are You Sick & Tires of Looking for a Allen Wrench
Every Time you need to Move a Workclamp?
Then You Need a Set of Our
Quick-Adjust  Workclamp Handles  for  Quick & Easy  Workclamp Set-Up!

We Now Stock 4 Types of Ratchet Handles;

Type-1   For  FC1000/1,  FC1000/2,  FC1000/3,  FC1000XT,  FC750,  FC750/2

Type-2    For  FC1250/30/1500  and  FC1250/30/1500 LaserTool

Type-3    For  "R",  "H",  "XP",  and  CAP1000  Machines,
Specify  Type-3  INCH   or   Type-3  METRIC   on  These Machines,
as  Strippit  Stupidly Made them Both Ways,  Just to Confuse Everyone.
At Left,
is a Set of
on a
Strippit  FC1000/3  Workclamp.
X-Axis Zeroing

X-Axis  Zeroing is   Completely   Different than  Y-Axis  Zeroing!

1 -- First  "Home"  X-Axis.   End of X-Carriage should Stop 1 Inch  PAST  the Sidegage Gage-Surface.   Use a Piece of Sheetmetal as a Square,  put it against Carriage where Workclamps are Mounted and Slide it up to the Sidegage.  
Measure Distance from End of Carriage to the Sheetmetal Edge.  
If not 1 Inch,  adjust the X-Resolver,  or  Fanuc Control Parameters,  until it is 1 Inch.
This Sets-Up  Proper  Axis-Slowdown  &  Axis-Limit  Positions for Full Carriage Travel.

2 --  Go to  "Load"  Position.    Put in a Piece of Sheetmetal,  and Punch a Test Hole.
Like on Y-Axis,  I use a  2"x2" Punch,  and Punch a Hole near the Sheet Edge.   
Measure edge of Hole to edge of Sheet.    If not within acceptable accuracy, 
say  .002",   Grind-Down  or  Shim-Out  the  Sidegage Surface-Pad,  Depending on
Direction of Error.    Punch another Test Hole to Confirm your  "Zeroing"  of Axis.
NOTE !!!  Strippit has made  Dozens  of  Different
"1000Type Machines over the last 40 Years!
Read Your Machine  Model-Number  &  Serial-Number
On Machine's  I.D.-Plate  So You Order Correct Parts!

"Click-On"  The  Correct-Button  at Right
for  Your  Machine WorkClamp  Info!
!!! NOTE !!!
After 30+ Years,   we are
Closeing Down our Workclamp Machine Shop!
If you NEED Workclamp Repair Parts
When our Existing Stock is Gone
There Will Be No More Workclamp Parts!