Strippit  Workclamp-Assemblies
and  Workclamp  Repair-Parts

Machine Technologies Specializes In Repair Parts & Service
For Strippit HECC80 Control CNC Turret Punch Press Machines
We Carry a Complete-Line of Strippit Workclamps
and Workclamp Repair-Parts for the Following
6 Machine Groups.
Call for
Complete Workclamp-Assemblies
Workclamp Repair-Part
Pricing & Availability.

Phone:  704-233-5229
This page was last updated: May 30, 2022
Standard Strippit Original Workclamps have a Machined
"Knife-Edge"  Upper Jaw that does Not hold Part-Sheets very well.

We Stock and Recommend

"Carbide-Tooth  Upper-Jaws"

that  Hold  3 Times  Better
than  Original  Strippit  "Knife-Edge"  Type.

Carbide-Teeth Jaws  Especially Work Well on  Hard-to-Hold
Large  &  Thick Steel  &  Stainless-Steel  Sheets,
which tend to   "Pull-Out"  of  Standard Workclamp Jaws.

How Many More Big Sheets of Expensive Metal Do You Want To Waste?

We also can Provide
New,  Used,  and  Rebuilt  Complete  Workclamp Assemblies  in both
Standard-Long  Workclamps
Short-Type  Workclamps.

Short-Workclamps  Gage-Sheets  at   0.750" from Carriage
so allow  9 inch Wider Part-Sheets in the Y-Axis  on
FC1000/1,  FC1000/2,  FC1000/3  can hold Standard  48 inch Wide-Sheets
and   FC750  &  FC750/2  can hold  39 inch Wide-Sheets.

And Allow  10.5" Wider Part-Sheets on  FC1250/30/1500 Machines
so they can now Hold  60 inch Wide-Sheets.


FC1250/30/1500- LaserTool
Blanking Center



DiAcro QCT-20

Workclamp Lengths
Y-Axis Zeroing.

For the  FC750,  FC1000/1,  FC1000/2,  FC1000/3,  FC1250/45,  FC1250/30/1500,
R  &  H Series,  S Series,  and  Cap1000 Type Workclamps,   Strippit has  NEVER
Manufactured Workclamps  or  Workclamp Bodies to  Any  Particular  Length!

When Building a New Machine,  Strippit would take a Pair of Workclamps with the Upper & Lower Jaws Removed,  and Clamp them in a Special-Jig that would hold them Back to Back Pointing Upward in a Large Surface Grinder.   They would then Grind 4 Ends of the 2 Workclamp Bodies so they were the  Same Exact Length,  and did Not Really Care what this Length was,  Just that they were the Same Length.
This would insure that the Work Piece Part was held Straight,
and Not Cocked Out-Of-Square by Different Length Workclamps.

Note,  Whenever Just 1 Workclamp or Workclamp Body is Replaced,  You MUST Grind Both Workclamps to the Same Length,  or your Parts will be Out-Of-Square on Machine.   This is Minimized if you Replace Both Workclamps at the Same time, 
as the Length of 2 Replacements will Probably be Close,  but Not Perfect.   You can also try to Grind the Longer Workclamp Body to match the Shorter Workclamp body.
It's Away's Best to Grind them to Same Length,  and then  Rezero Y-Axis.

Workclamps were then Reassembled,  Put back on Machine and Spread Apart 3 Feet or so.    A Piece of Metal was put into Clamps,  and then you Punched a Hole between the Workclamps with  2x2 Inch Notch-Tool  3 Inches  (Y 3.000)  from the Edge of Sheet.
With the 1 inch Offset from Center-Line of 2x2" Tool,  you should have a   2.000" dimension from Punched Hole to Sheet Edge.

If Not,   You Need to  "Zero"  the  Y-Axis Home Dimension.

Also Note,  Every Time you  Un-Bolt  &  Remove a  Axis Servo Motor,   Ballscrew,
Ballscrew-Coupling,   Resolver Feedback Package,   Resolver-Coupling,  Etc.,
Your Axis will Need to be  "ReZeroed"  again!


On  HECC80  &  "A"  Control Machines
you Adjust the Y-Axis Resolver inside Feedback Package on the End of Servo Motor.
I do this the Following Way.    Say your Measured Dimension was  1.988  instead of the expected 2.000  (we will assume that your Y-Ballscrew is Tight with No-Slop in it).
This means that the  Part went In   .012"  Too Far.

So using a  1 Inch Dial Indicator mounted on a Magnetic Base,  With
Machine-On  &  Holding Axis Position,  put  Dial Indicator-End against the Y Carriage.   
Now take Cover-Plate off End of the Feedback Package, 
Loosen 2 Screw-Keepers holding the Resolver,  and  Carefully Turn Resolver Slowly.  
Y-Axis  will  Move  &  Track  Movement of the  Resolver Rotation.   
Watching the Dial IndicatorTurn Resolver until  Y-Axis Moves-Out  .012".
Tighten the 2 Screws.    Not Too-Tight  or  you will  Strip-Out  the Small Screw Threads!
Now Punch another Test Hole to Check if you Adjusted Correctly.


On the Above Types of Strippit Machines with  Fanuc Controls,  "Zeroing"  is Accomplished by changing  Y-Axis Offset Number in the Control's Parameters.
See your Strippit Manuals for the  Parameter Location  and  Procedure for Changing
Parameter Offset Number,  as it Varies with  Fanuc Control  &  Machine Model  Type.


On the  S-Series of Machines,  Strippit finally got a Little Smarter.   S-Type Workclamps have a Gage-Block that Sticks Out from Workclamp Body.   So if 1 Workclamp is "Longer"  than the Other,  you can Unbolt Gage-Block from Longest Workclamp, 
and Grind Block Shorter to Match Total Overall Length of the Shorter Clamp.
Then Punch a Test Hole and Change Offset Parameter,  if Necessary.


Again,  As Workclamps are Not Manufactured to any Particular Length,
Above Procedures  MUST  be Performed Whenever a  Workclamp or
Workclamp-Body  Repair Part is Replaced!

CAUTION!!!        CAUTION!!!        CAUTION!!!
When Adjusting Resolver Feedback Package with the Machine-On,
A Loose Connection  or a  Broken-Wire  could Cause the Axis to
"Oscillate"  or  "Run-Away"  at  Hi-Speed!
Use  Extreme  Caution!!!
Always Keep Your Hands Away from ANY Point Where
Y-Carriage Movement Could  "Pinch"  Your Hands,
As  Extreme Injury  Could Result!!!

Are You Sick & Tires of Looking for a Allen Wrench
Every Time you need to Move a Workclamp?
Then You Need a Set of Our
Quick-Adjust  Workclamp Handles  for  Quick & Easy  Workclamp Set-Up!

We Now Stock 4 Types of Ratchet Handles;

Type-1   For  FC1000/1,  FC1000/2,  FC1000/3,  FC1000XT,  FC750,  FC750/2

Type-2    For  FC1250/30/1500  and  FC1250/30/1500 LaserTool

Type-3    For  "R",  "H",  "XP",  and  CAP1000  Machines,

Specify  Type-3  INCH   or   Type-3  METRIC   on These Machines,
as  Strippit Stupidly Made them Both Ways, Just to Confuse Everyone.
At Left,
is a Set of
on a
Strippit  FC1000/3  Workclamp.
X-Axis Zeroing

X-Axis  Zeroing is   Completely   Different than  Y-Axis  Zeroing!

1 -- First  "Home"  the X-Axis.   The End of X-Carriage should Stop 1 Inch  PAST  the Sidegage Gage-Surface.   Use a Piece of Sheetmetal as a Square,  put it against the Carriage where Workclamps are Mounted,  Slide it up to the Sidegage, 
then Measure Distance from End of Carriage to the Sheetmetal Edge.  
If not 1 Inch,  adjust the X-Resolver,  or  Fanuc Control Parameters,  until it is 1 Inch.
This Sets-Up  Proper  Axis-Slowdown  &  Axis-Limit  Positions for Full Carriage Travel.

2 --  Go to  "Load"  Position.    Put in a Piece of Sheetmetal,  and Punch a Test Hole.
Like on Y-Axis,  I use a  2"x2" Punch,  and Punch a Hole near the Sheet Edge.   
Measure edge of Hole to edge of Sheet.    If not within acceptable accuracy, 
say  .002",   Grind-Down  or  Shim-Out  the  Sidegage Surface-Pad,  Depending on
Direction of Error.    Punch another Test Hole to Confirm your  "Zeroing"  of Axis.
NOTE !!!  Strippit has made  Dozens  of  Different
"1000Type Machines over the last 40 Years!
Read Your Machine  Model-Number  &  Serial-Number
On Machine's  I.D.-Plate  So You Order Correct Parts!

"Click-On"  The  Correct-Button  at Right
for  Your  Machine WorkClamp  Info!
!!! NOTE !!!
After 30+ Years,   we are
Closeing Down our Workclamp Machine Shop!
If you NEED Workclamp Repair Parts
When our Existing Stock is Gone
There Will Be No More Workclamp Parts!