In 1970's & 1980's, the Strippit Co. used #18122-000 (1-Meter Long Cable) and
#19684-000 (2-Meter Long Cable) Sensors, with #17441-000 Magnets,
on most of their CNC Punching Machines for Brake-On, Clutch-Dump, Ram-Up,
Upper Tool-Door, and Tool-Ring Sensor Functions.
These Hi-Speed Hall-Effect Sensors are Obsolete, and are
No longer manufactured or available anywhere.
As Original Sensors are Short and Compact, with Special Electrical Characteristics, finding a Replacement Sensor was Difficult. Machine Technologies has now Sourced, and Tested-Good,
a New Replacement Sensor and Target Combination on our Strippit Machines, and we now offer
this Retrofit Sensor and Target Kit For-Sale.
Both the #18122-000 and #19684-000 Sensors will be Replaced with
Machine Technologies Part Number #18122-RET Retrofit Sensor Kit. Kit Includes
The New #17441-RET Target Replaces Old #17441-000 Magnet, and is Required for
Proper Operation. Extra Targets can be ordered using this #17441-RET Part Number, if desired.
Because New Target is a little Heavier than Old Magnet Target, we have provided a
Special Kelps-Nut and Thread-Lock Fluid to Secure Target Firmly. Just apply a Small Drop of Thread-Lock Fluid to Target-Stud before doing the final Tightening on Keps-Nut.
If Target were to get Loose, Sensor could be Destroyed!
This Loosening was also a Problem with the old Sensor & Magnet Combination.
being used for
Brake-On & Clutch-Dump
Retrofit Sensor Kit.
New #17441-RET Target, Keps-Nut, and
Sensor Installation is Easy, and only involves 3 Wires,
But the 3 Wire Color-Codes are Different on the Old and New Sensors!
Installer Must Carefully Write-Down What Terminal-Numbers 3 Old-Sensor Wires were Connected to.
Refer to your Machine's Wiring Prints.
Typically, Old Sensor Wiring;
RED--Wire goes to 1DC (12 Volts D.C. Voltage)
WHITE--Wire goes to Signal-Out to Control
BLACK--Wire goes to LVR (Ground)
New Sensor Wiring;
BROWN--Wire goes to 1DC (12 Volts D.C. Voltage)
BLACK--Wire goes to Signal-Out to Control
BLUE--Wire goes to LVR (Ground)
Double-Check Your Wiring BEFORE You Turn-On Control Power!
All Sensors are Tested-Good Before Shipping.
Sensor Wiring Errors may Burn-Out the New Sensor, and will be at Customers own risk.
Set Gap between Retrofit Sensor and Target to .040" (1.0MM),
and make sure Sensor to Target Alignment Left to Right is Correct.
When Sensor is Over Target,
Sensor will be "ON" and small LED-Light will be "ON" at Cable-End of Sensor.
As some readjustment of Sensor and Target Positions & Gaps may be needed, do not use the
Thread-Lock Fluid until you are satisfied with Machine Operation. Then go back, remove Keps-Nut, put a small drop of Thread-Lock Fluid on Target-Stud Threads, and Firmly Tighten Keps-Nut.
This page was last updated: May 27, 2015
When using Sensor in the Ram-Up Application, make Sure that Punch-Ram is All the way Up
If Not Properly set at T.D.C. Position, Target will Crash into Sensor, Destroying Both.
There is usually a "Mark" or "Notch" on Timing-Disk to Indicate T.D.C.
This Mark will be at the very Top 12 O'clock Position when Press-Drive is at T.D.C.
If Punch-Ram is Not at T.D.C.,
Push-Down and Twist-to-Lock the Activation Button on Brake MAC Valve to Release Brake which is holding Press-Drive in position. Now you can grab Timing-Disk by hand, and Rotate Timing-Disk Back-and-Forth until mark is in the T.D.C. Position. Release Mac Valve to hold position.
Now set the Retrofit Sensor and Target Gap to Proper .040" (1.0mm).
If still using Old Sensors & Magnets, set Gap to .025".
Setting Clearance Gap on
Clutch & Brake Timing Sensors & Targets / Magnets
1 -- Rotate Turret, by Hand if necessary, so there is No Tool under the Ram.
2 -- With Machine Power Turned-Off, take a small screwdriver, Push-In and Twist
Actuator-Button on Brake Mac Air-Valve to Lock-On & Activate Air-Valve,
which will Release the Brake. This will allow the Crankshaft to be Rotated.
3 -- Grab Aluminum Timing-Disk with Both Hands, and Push & Pull Hard on it.
If you feel a "Clunking" as you Push & Pull,
This is Slop & Wear in the End-Bearings allowing the Crankshaft to move Back & Forth.
End-Bearing Wear can cause Improperly-Set Sensors and Magnet / Targets to "Crash"
and be Destroyed.
End-Bearing Wear is Caused by Shop Knuckleheads putting Wrong Oil in Press-Drive
Lube-Tank when Machine Stops with a "Lube Failure" Fault caused by empty oil tank.
Knucklehead's then Grab the First Oil-Like Substance they can find, Usually Hydraulic Fluid,
and then dump that into Tank instead of the Proper Lubricating Oil.
Read about Lube System & Correct Lubrication Oils on
4 -- Grab the Timing-Disk, and Rotate Disk (and the Crankshaft) until the
Clutch-Off (the Inner-Track Target / Magnet) Target / Magnet is over it's Sensor.
Make sure the Sensor & Target / Magnet are Aligned Closely Left to Right,
and are Not Off-Set to each other. Fix if necessary.
5 -- Push Disk Hard to Take-Up the Slop between Retrofit Sensor & Target ,
then set the Gap Between Them to .040 inch (1.0mm).
If still using Old Sensors & Magnets, set Gap to .025".
This way, Crankshaft can only Drift the Magnets & Targets Away from the Sensors
and Not into them, to Avoid Breakage of Sensors & Targets & Magnets!
6 -- Repeat with Brake-On (the Outer-Track Target / Magnets) Sensor & Target / Magnets.
7 -- Rotate Ram up to Top-Dead-Center (T.D.C.), and release Brake Mac Air-Valve.
8 -- Turn-On Machine, and "Punch" a couple of times.
Ram Needs to Stop Consistently at Top-Dead-Center (Notch at 12 O'clock) Position,
or Better-Still, a Bit Before at the 11 O'clock Position.
If Ram Stops-Too Early, Retard the Brake-On Target / Magnet a Couple of Hole Positions.
If Ram Stops Too-Late, Advance the Brake-On Target / Magnet a Couple of Hole Positions.
If you cannot get Ram to Stop at T.D.C., there may be Other Issues such as Worn Brake & Clutch Assemblies, Sticking Clutch & Brake Mac Valves, Broken Clutch Poppit Valve, Clogged Air Filters, bad Air-Regulators, Etc, that Will Need to be Repaired!