Sensor  Retrofits
In  1970's  &  1980's,   the Strippit Co.  used  #18122-000  (1-Meter Long Cable) 
and   #19684-000  (2-Meter Long Cable) Sensors,   both using the   #17441-000  Magnets,  
on most of their  CNC  Punching Machines for   Brake-On,   Clutch-Dump,   Ram-Up, 
Upper Tool-Door,   and  Tool-Ring   Sensor Functions.

These Hi-Speed  Hall-Effect  Sensors are Obsolete, 
and are  No longer Manufactured  or  Available  anywhere.

As Original Sensors are Short and Compact,  with Special Electrical Characteristics, 
finding a Replacement Sensor was Difficult.   
Machine Technologies has now  Sourced,  and  Tested-Good, 
a  New Replacement Sensor and Target Combination on our Strippit Machines, 
and we now offer this  Retrofit Sensor and Target Kit  For-Sale.

Both the  #18122-000  and  #19684-000  Sensors will be  Replaced with
Machine Technologies   Part Number   #18122-RET  Retrofit Sensor Kit.      Kit  Includes 
New  #18122-RET  Sensor,   #17441-RET  Target,   Keps-Nut,  and  Lock-Tite  Thread Locker Fluid.

The  New  #17441-RET  Target   Replaces   Old  #17441-000  Magnet,   and is  Required for
Proper Operation.    Extra Targets can be ordered using this  #17441-RET  Part Number,   if desired.

Because New Target is a little Heavier than Old Magnet Target,  we have provided a
Special Kelps-Nut and Thread-Lock Fluid to Secure Target Firmly.
Just apply a Small Drop of Thread-Lock Fluid to Target-Stud  before doing the
final Tightening on Keps-Nut.     If Target were to get Loose,  Sensor could be Destroyed!

This Loosening was also a Problem with the old Sensor & Magnet  Combination.

At Left,
#18122-000  Sensor
#17441-000  Magnet 
with   Keps-Nut
At Right,
Two  Obsolete
#18122-000  Sensors
with two 
#1774-000  Magnets
on Timing-Disk
being used for
Brake-On  &
Press-Drive Timing
on this
Strippit Machine

Retrofit Sensor Kit.

Kit Includes
New Sensor,
New  #17441-RET  Target,  Keps-Nut,  and 
Loctite 242
Thread-Locker Fluid.
Sensor Installation is Easy,  and  only involves  3 Wires,
But  the  3  Wire Color-Codes are  Different on the  Old  and  New  Sensors!

Installer Must Carefully Write-Down What  Terminal-Numbers  3 Old-Sensor Wires were Connected to.
Refer to your Machine's Wiring Prints.
Typically,          Old  Sensor Wiring;
                                                                   RED--Wire           goes to    1DC  (12 Volts D.C. Voltage)
                                                                   WHITE--Wire      goes to    Signal-Out  to Control
                                                                   BLACK--Wire     goes to    LVR   (Ground)

                        New  Sensor Wiring;
                                                                   BROWN--Wire    goes to    1DC  (12 Volts D.C. Voltage)
                                                                   BLACK--Wire     goes to    Signal-Out  to Control
                                                                   BLUE--Wire        goes to    LVR   (Ground)

Double-Check  Your Wiring  BEFORE  You Turn-On  Control Power!
All Sensors are Tested-Good Before Shipping.
Sensor Wiring Errors  may Burn-Out the New Sensor,  and  will be at Customers own Risk.

Set Gap  between  Retrofit Sensor  and  Target to   .040" (1.0MM),  
use a   Feeler-Gage   to set Gap Correctly, 
and make sure  Sensor  to Target  Alignment  Left to Right  is  Correct.  

When Sensor is Over Target, 
Sensor will be  "ON"  and  small  LED-Light will be "ON"  at  Cable-End of Sensor.

As some readjustment of Sensor and Target Positions & Gaps may be needed, 
do not use the  Thread-Lock Fluid  until you are satisfied with Machine Operation.  
Then go back,  remove Keps-Nut,  put a small drop of Thread-Lock Fluid on Target-Stud Threads, 
and Firmly Tighten the  Keps-Nut.

This page was last updated: May 4, 2020
Ram-Up Application

When using Sensor in the  Ram-Up Application,   make Sure that  Punch-Ram is All the way Up
into the  T.D.C.   Top-Dead-Center Position   Before you set the Sensor and Target Gap.   
If Not Properly set at  T.D.C. Position,   Target will Crash into Sensor,   Destroying Both.

There is usually a  "Mark"  or  "Notch"  on  Timing-Disk to Indicate T.D.C.
This Mark will be at the very Top  12 O'clock Position  when Press-Drive is at  T.D.C.

If  Punch-Ram is Not at  T.D.C.,  
Push-Down and Twist-to-Lock the Activation Button on Brake MAC Valve to  Release Brake
which is holding Press-Drive in position.   Now you can grab Timing-Disk by hand,  and  Rotate Timing-Disk Back-and-Forth until mark is in the  T.D.C. Position.    Release Mac Valve to hold position.

Now set the  New  Retrofit Sensor  & Target   Gap to Proper   .040"  (1.0mm).

If still using  Old  Sensors  &  Magnets,   set Gap to  .025".

Setting Clearance Gap on
Clutch & Brake Timing Sensors  &  Targets / Magnets

1  --  Rotate Turret,   by Hand if necessary,   so there is No-Tool under the Ram.

2  --  With  Machine Power Turned-Off,   take a small screwdriver,   Push-In and Twist
        Actuator-Button on  Brake Mac Air-Valve to   Lock-On  &  Activate  Air-Valve,
        which will  Release the Brake.     This will allow the  Crankshaft to be Rotated.

3  --  Grab Aluminum Timing-Disk with Both Hands,  and  Push & Pull  Hard on it.  
        If you feel a  "Clunking"   as you  Push & Pull, 
       This is  Slop & Wear  in the  End-Bearings allowing the Crankshaft to move  Back & Forth.
        End-Bearing Wear can cause Improperly-Set  Sensors and  Magnet / Targets
        to  "Crash"  and be  Destroyed.

        End-Bearing Wear  is Caused by Shop  Knuckleheads   putting  Wrong Oil in Press-Drive
        Lube-Tank when Machine Stops with a  "Lube Failure"  Fault  caused by Empty oil tank.     
        Knucklehead's then Grab the  First Oil-Like Substance they can find,  Usually  Hydraulic Fluid,
        and then dump that into Tank,  instead of the Proper Lubricating Oil.     
        Read about  Lube System  &  Correct Lubrication Oils on
        Common Strippit Machine Problems

4  --  Grab the Timing-Disk,  and  Rotate Disk  (and the Crankshaft)  until the 
        Clutch-Off   (the  Inner-Track  Target / Magnet)  Target / Magnet  is over it's Sensor.  

        Make sure the Sensor & Target / Magnet  are Aligned Closely  Left to Right, 
        and are  Not Off-Set  to each other.    Fix if necessary!

5  --  Push Disk Hard  to  Take-Up the Slop  between  Retrofit Sensor  & Target ,
        then set the Gap Between Them to   .040 inch  (1.0mm).

        If still using the  Old  Sensors & Magnets,  set  Gap to  .025".

        This way,  Crankshaft can only Drift the  Magnets & Targets  Away from the Sensors
        and  Not into them,  to  Avoid Breakage of  Sensors  & Targets  &  Magnets!

6  --  Repeat with  Brake-On  (the Outer-Track Target / Magnets)  Sensor  &  Target / Magnets.

7  --  Rotate Ram up to Top-Dead-Center  (T.D.C.),  and  release Brake Mac Air-Valve.

8  --  Turn-On Machine,  and  "Punch"  a couple of times.

Ram Needs to Stop Consistently  at  Top-Dead-Center   (Notch at  12 O'clock)   Position, 
or   Better-Still,   a Bit  Before at the  11 O'clock Position.

If Ram Stops-Too Early,   Retard the  Brake-On  Target / Magnet  a Couple of Hole Positions.

If Ram Stops Too-Late,   Advance the  Brake-On  Target / Magnet  a Couple of Hole Positions.

If you cannot get Ram to Stop at  T.D.C.,    there may be Other Issues such as  Worn Brake  &  Clutch Assemblies,  Sticking Clutch & Brake Mac Valves,   Broken Clutch Poppit Valve,   Clogged Air Filters,  bad Air-Regulators,   Etc,   that Will Need to be Repaired!

Off to See
Sir Elton