Sensor  Retrofits
In  1970's  &  1980's,  the Strippit Co.  used  #18122-000  (1-Meter Long Cable)  and 
#19684-000  (2-Meter Long Cable) Sensors,   with  #17441-000  Magnets,  
on most of their  CNC Punching Machines for  Brake-On,  Clutch-Dump,  Ram-Up, 
Upper Tool-Door,  and  Tool-Ring  Sensor Functions.

These Hi-Speed  Hall-Effect  Sensors are Obsolete,  and are
No longer manufactured or available anywhere.

As Original Sensors are Short and Compact,  with Special Electrical Characteristics,  finding a Replacement Sensor was Difficult.    Machine Technologies has now Sourced,  and Tested-Good, 
a  New Replacement Sensor and Target Combination on our Strippit Machines,  and we now offer
this Retrofit Sensor and Target Kit  For-Sale.

Both the  #18122-000  and  #19684-000  Sensors will be  Replaced with
Machine Technologies   Part Number   #18122-RET  Retrofit Sensor Kit.      Kit  Includes 
New  #18122-RET  Sensor,   #17441-RET  Target,   Keps-Nut,  and  Lock-Tite  Thread Locker Fluid.

The  New  #17441-RET  Target  Replaces  Old  #17441-000  Magnet,  and is Required for
Proper Operation.    Extra Targets can be ordered using this  #17441-RET  Part Number,  if desired.

Because New Target is a little Heavier than Old Magnet Target,  we have provided a
Special Kelps-Nut and Thread-Lock Fluid to Secure Target Firmly.    Just apply a Small Drop of Thread-Lock Fluid to Target-Stud before doing the final Tightening on Keps-Nut.  
If Target were to get Loose,  Sensor could be Destroyed!

This Loosening was also a Problem with the old Sensor & Magnet Combination.

At Left,
#18122-000  Sensor
#17441-000  Magnet 
with   Keps-Nut
At Right,
Two  Obsolete
#18122-000  Sensors
with two 
#1774-000  Magnets
on Timing-Disk
being used for
Brake-On  &  Clutch-Dump
Press-Drive Timing
on this
Strippit Machine

Retrofit Sensor Kit.

Kit Includes
New Sensor,
New  #17441-RET  Target,  Keps-Nut,  and 
Loctite 242
Thread-Locker Fluid.
Sensor Installation is Easy,  and only involves 3 Wires,
But  the  3  Wire Color-Codes are  Different on the  Old  and  New  Sensors!

Installer Must Carefully Write-Down What  Terminal-Numbers 3 Old-Sensor Wires were Connected to.
Refer to your Machine's Wiring Prints.
Typically,          Old Sensor Wiring;
                                                                   RED--Wire         goes to   1DC  (12 Volts D.C. Voltage)
                                                                   WHITE--Wire     goes to   Signal-Out  to Control
                                                                   BLACK--Wire    goes to   LVR   (Ground)

                        New Sensor Wiring;
                                                                   BROWN--Wire   goes to   1DC  (12 Volts D.C. Voltage)
                                                                   BLACK--Wire    goes to   Signal-Out  to Control
                                                                   BLUE--Wire       goes to   LVR   (Ground)

Double-Check  Your Wiring  BEFORE  You Turn-On Control Power!
All Sensors are Tested-Good Before Shipping.
Sensor Wiring Errors may Burn-Out the New Sensor,  and will be at Customers own risk.

Set Gap between  Retrofit Sensor and Target to  .040" (1.0MM),  
use a  Feeler-Gage  to set Gap Correctly, 
and make sure  Sensor  to Target  Alignment  Left to Right  is Correct.  

When Sensor is Over Target, 
Sensor will be  "ON"  and small  LED-Light will be "ON" at Cable-End of Sensor.

As some readjustment of Sensor and Target Positions & Gaps may be needed,  do not use the
Thread-Lock Fluid until you are satisfied with Machine Operation.   Then go back,  remove Keps-Nut,  put a small drop of Thread-Lock Fluid on Target-Stud Threads,  and Firmly Tighten Keps-Nut.

This page was last updated: May 27, 2015
Ram-Up Application

When using Sensor in the  Ram-Up Application,  make Sure that Punch-Ram is All the way Up
into the  T.D.C.  Top-Dead-Center Position  Before you set the Sensor and Target Gap.   
If Not Properly set at T.D.C. Position,   Target will Crash into Sensor,  Destroying Both.

There is usually a  "Mark"  or  "Notch"  on Timing-Disk to Indicate T.D.C.
This Mark will be at the very Top  12 O'clock Position  when Press-Drive is at T.D.C.

If  Punch-Ram is Not at T.D.C.,  
Push-Down and Twist-to-Lock the Activation Button on Brake MAC Valve to Release Brake which is holding Press-Drive in position.   Now you can grab Timing-Disk by hand,  and Rotate Timing-Disk Back-and-Forth until mark is in the T.D.C. Position.    Release Mac Valve to hold position.

Now set the Retrofit Sensor and Target Gap to Proper  .040"  (1.0mm).

If still using Old Sensors & Magnets,  set Gap to  .025".

Setting Clearance Gap on
Clutch & Brake Timing Sensors & Targets / Magnets

1  --  Rotate Turret,   by Hand if necessary,   so there is No Tool under the Ram.

2  --  With  Machine Power Turned-Off,  take a small screwdriver,  Push-In and Twist
        Actuator-Button on  Brake Mac Air-Valve to  Lock-On  &  Activate Air-Valve,
        which will  Release the Brake.     This will allow the Crankshaft to be Rotated.

3  --  Grab Aluminum Timing-Disk with Both Hands,  and Push & Pull Hard on it.  
        If you feel a  "Clunking"   as you Push & Pull, 
       This is Slop & Wear in the End-Bearings allowing the Crankshaft to move Back & Forth.
        End-Bearing Wear can cause Improperly-Set  Sensors and  Magnet / Targets to  "Crash" 
        and be Destroyed.

        End-Bearing Wear is Caused by Shop  Knuckleheads   putting Wrong Oil in Press-Drive
        Lube-Tank when Machine Stops with a  "Lube Failure"  Fault  caused by empty oil tank.     
        Knucklehead's then Grab the First Oil-Like Substance they can find,  Usually Hydraulic Fluid,
        and then dump that into Tank instead of the Proper Lubricating Oil.     
        Read about Lube System & Correct Lubrication Oils on
        Common Strippit Machine Problems

4  --  Grab the Timing-Disk,  and Rotate Disk  (and the Crankshaft)  until the 
        Clutch-Off   (the  Inner-Track  Target / Magnet)  Target / Magnet is over it's Sensor.  

        Make sure the Sensor & Target / Magnet are Aligned Closely  Left to Right, 
        and are Not Off-Set to each other.    Fix if necessary.

5  --  Push Disk Hard to  Take-Up the Slop  between  Retrofit Sensor  & Target ,
        then set the Gap Between Them to  .040 inch  (1.0mm).

        If still using Old Sensors & Magnets,  set Gap to  .025".

        This way,  Crankshaft can only Drift the Magnets & Targets Away from the Sensors
        and Not into them,  to Avoid Breakage of  Sensors  & Targets  & Magnets!

6  --  Repeat with  Brake-On  (the Outer-Track Target / Magnets)  Sensor & Target / Magnets.

7  --  Rotate Ram up to Top-Dead-Center  (T.D.C.),  and release Brake Mac Air-Valve.

8  --  Turn-On Machine,  and  "Punch"  a couple of times.

Ram Needs to Stop Consistently at  Top-Dead-Center   (Notch at  12 O'clock)  Position, 
or  Better-Still,   a Bit  Before at the  11 O'clock Position.

If Ram Stops-Too EarlyRetard the Brake-On  Target / Magnet  a Couple of Hole Positions.

If Ram Stops Too-Late,   Advance the Brake-On  Target / Magnet  a Couple of Hole Positions.

If you cannot get Ram to Stop at T.D.C.,    there may be Other Issues such as  Worn Brake & Clutch Assemblies,  Sticking Clutch & Brake Mac Valves,  Broken Clutch Poppit Valve,  Clogged Air Filters,  bad Air-Regulators,  Etc,  that Will Need to be Repaired!

Off to See
Sir Elton