4 --- Slow-Down the X & Y Axis Speed!
FC1000/3 Machines are Very Fast at Up to 3000 Inches per minute,
but the Axis are usually Accelerating or Decelerating Hard from this Speed,
which Greatly Stresses the Servo-Motors, Servo-Drives, Bearings, and Ballscrews.
Slowing-Down Speed will Greatly Reduce Wear & Failure of these Expensive items!
The Best way to do this is to Simply Insert a F2 Command in ALL Of Your Part-Programs
on the Line of Code where you make your First X Y Move & Turn-On the Punch.
N001 G69 Home X, Y, and T Axis
N002 X48. Y38. M75 Go to Load Position and Stop
N003 X22.345 Y19.739 T02 G68 F2 The First Punch Line, F2 Limits Axis Speed to 2000 IPM
Note! Surprisingly, the F2 does NOT lengthen your Run-Time very much, as axis are not at 3000
IPM Speed very much. But Reducing the Hard Acceleration & Deceleration Greatly Improves Reliability, Accuracy, and Reduces some Punching and Part-Holding Problems.
And It Costs You Nothing! Add F2 to Al l Part Programs! Some shops use F15 to go Even Slower.
5 --- Service the Servo-Motors. Bad Motors can Blow Servo-Modules & Servo-Boards!
--- Carbon-Dust builds-Up inside the Motors and Arcs.
Take Brush-Covers off and Blow-Out the Dust regularity.
--- Examine the Brushes. Replace if Worn-Down. Careful, These are Very Tricky to Check!
If you Lose a Spring or Screw, it will get Pulled-Into Motor, and it will have to be
Disassembled & Repaired by a Professional (NOT by Local Motor Shop "Down the Street" ) !
--- Check Brush Retaining Springs, Replace if they seem Weak or are Burnt.
--- Make sure Motors have Strong Cooling Air-Flow out of Motor.
Air-Blowers can Fail, Filters get Clogged, Air-Hoses can Rot-Out. Repair as necessary.
--- Check Tachometer Ohms. A good Tach Armature with a Clean Commutator,
good Tach-Brushes, Tach-Springs that are not Bent-Up, will read about 65 to 80 Ohms.
If much over 100 Ohms, something is Wrong. Have it Fixed!
--- Watch Brushes & Commutator while making 30 Inch-Moves at Full 3000 IPM Speed.
If There Is Strong Arcing & Popping, Motor Armature Probably Has Shorted-Windings.
Motor Needs to Be Replaced or Re-Wound & Re-Built Before It Blows-Up Servo-Drive!
--- Most Servo Motors Fail from Overheating.
Your Operator Jammed a Punch-Down, or Slug Popped-up, or Sheet Jammed Up.
Machine's Axis tries to Move, but it can't from the Jam-Up, so you are in a Stalled-Motor
Condition which Draws Full-Power from Servo and will Cook the Motor in Just a Minute
or 2 if he does Not Shut it Off! Operator will also Forget to tell you this Happened!
Motor Windings then get so Hot that Insulation Melts & Breaks-Down, then Electricity Shorts
from Winding to Winding, Pulling Too Much Current, and will Trip a Servo Over-Current Fault,
or even Blow the Servo Drive. You Can NOT Check for this with a Ohm-Meter or Megger!
It is Hard to tell a Bad Burn-Armature Motor out in the Customers Shop.
The Best way to tell is to replace with a Known Good Motor.
However, I have Developed the following way to Quick-Test a Motor in the Field,
Though This Will Not Find All Faults!
You will need a small Variable Voltage Laboratory Power Supply with Build-in Voltmeter
and Current Meters. I use this Model that puts out up to 40 Volts DC at up to 3 Amps.