In the Olden Days, Brake Disks were made with Asbestos, Copper, and Other Materials. These Materials were Discontinued in the Early 1980's, and Clutch & Brake Disks have been made with Ceramic Materials ever since. The Problem is, Ceramic Linings are Harder than the Steel & Iron Surfaces in the Brake Assemblies. This Causes Disk to Burrow into the Metal, and Destroys the Brake Assembly, so that it can Not be Rebuild like they used to be.
To Solve this Problem, We Now Manufacture Our Own 8 Inch Kevlar-Lined Brake Friction Disks.
These Disks are Machined out of Solid 8 Inch Steel Bar Stock, the Internal Splins are Flame-Hardened,
and Finally Kevlar Friction Material is Bonded to the Brake Disk.
The Kevlar Material Will Not "Eat" into the Metal Surfaces of your Brake Assembly, and will Not Wear it out!
These 8 Inch Disks are Exact Replacements for Strippit Part #18075-100, and are for the
Strippit FC750, FC750/2, FC1000, FC1000/2, FC1000/3, FC1250/30/1500 Machines with 1 or 2 Disk Air-Brakes.
Some Brake Rebuilding Notes;
1 -- Do Not put a New Brake or Brake Disk on to a Worn-Out Crankshaft Brake Splin Hub, Replace Hub if Worn!
2 -- Coat Internal-Splins of Disks & External-Splins of Hub with Molykote GN Paste using a Toothbrush.
3 -- Coat all Studs of Drive-Ring & Pressure-Plate with Molykote GN Paste, Do Not get it on to Friction Surfaces!
4 -- Replace Studs if Excessively Worn or Broken. Studs can be Pressed-Out with a Arbor-Press.
5 -- If Surfaces of Drive-Ring & Pressure-Plate are Worn, Machine them Flat on a Lathe before installing New Disk.
6 -- Depending on the Brake Version, there are up to 24 Washers & Spacers, try to put them back in Correct Places!
7 -- Brakes with Stroke-Limiters are Shimmed for a .030 to .050 Inch Gap under Bumpers.
8 -- Stroke-Limiter can be Added if your Brake does not have Option, this reduces wear & noise, improves speed.
9 -- Always Replace Seals when Rebuilding Brake, All Air-Brakes use Seal Kit Part #17364-200.